Hi,
Hi,
What sharpening angle are you using?
Have you checked with a marker if you're hitting your edge angle?
How sharp is your shaving in terms of cutting paper? Can you slice printer paper/magazine paper/newspaper/phonebook paper? Can you push cut any of these papers at 90 degrees in all 3 axis?
Do you also strop on your boots after the fine stones?
There are only two possibilities,
1) you've got a burr,
in which case double the angle and cut the burr off with 2 short alternating passes per side
then check sharpness, repeat once or twice ,
if it works it should be instant,
if it doesn't work then
2) shaping was incomplete, knife was not apexed, the bevels werent made to meet, you've still got a flat, no burr on both sides was created
could be the coarse stone work wasn't really done for whatever reason,
stopped too soon before moving onto next stone
due to uneven bevels, one side reached the middle while the other didnt, and on subsequent stones this burr that has been shaving your arm hair thickened up and now shaves less well
cause you don't got burr shaving you no more
whatever the cause, solution is go back to a coarser stone and do more strokes, cause the fine stones are too fine (too slow) to catch up and do the work of the coarser stone
not being able to push cut paper means you're under shaped , or burr is folded over
alternating strokes should stand up burr, then not being able to push cut paper means you're definitely under shaped, needs more strokes to finish
I suggest you skip stropping on your boot until you figure out stones ,
most likely alll it did was stand up the coarse burr from your coarse stones, which would shave
the coarse burr from
but then since the burr from your fine stones is smaller, won't catch/trap as much hair as a bigger burr, so it feels less shavey
or it could be you've got mud/rocks on your boot dulling your blade
Hi,
For the shaping stage of sharpening, for raising a burr, it doesn't matter what kind of stroke you use. If alternating strokes for the shaping stage is fast enough for you, as opposed to scrubbing strokes, there nothing wrong with that.
For the final sharpness setting stage, for standing a burr up, cutting a burr off and creating a micro bevel , the last 20-30 alternating passes per side, you're supposed to alternate strokes .
You should do the same between switching stones if you've got a noticable big burr, alternate, double the angle, cut it off, light force as much under 100 grams as you can.
Hi,
So you're saying, use sharpening stone to create burr, then buy something else to remove burr?
Hmm, make burr on sharpening stone, then use something else to remove burr.
Cut metal from knife with a sharpening stone and create a burr, then use something else to remove burr.
Maybe there is a way to use the thing that created the burr to remove the burr?
I think it is called
high angle deburring or double angle deburring.
I'm reading that as I'm typing and that just sounds weird ... is it a sharpening stone or deburring stone?
