Sharpening....what works for YOU?

David E

David E

Joined
Nov 10, 2005
Messages
2,983
What's best?

What's fastest ?

What's the most reliable ? (consistent)

I have a deluxe Edge Pro and honestly, I'm not all that smitten with it. The arc of the belly is difficult for me to hit consistently.

Another problem is that when it comes to reprofiling an edge, it takes a very long time to do it. On a recent trip, my beloved Heavy Heart was outchopped by my Busse reprofiled Swamprat Mastiff.

(a word on the HH; mine was the FIRST one refitted with snakeskin grips and sharpened. The edge, tho, instead of a symetrical "V" shape was more like an "L" on it's side. I was finally able to reprofile it on the Edge Pro, but it took forever.)

Anyway, the HH edge isn't as steep as the Mastiff. So, despited the added weight, the Mastiff easily outchopped the HH. One of my FBM's wasn't as efficient as it could be, again because of the edge. I cringe when I think about how long it'll take on the Edge Pro to get it to match the other FBM the shop, again, reprofiled for me.

Of course, I could send these back in, but I want to be able to take care of this myself.

I've read of people using sandpaper/mousepad or leather pad (I can't get 'em shaving sharp that way.) I've read of others using an electric 2" wide belt sander........but, how, specifically, is that done correctly?

Any thoughts, links or insights are welcome. I can't seem to find the info I'm looking for during my searches.

Thanks !!

.
 
I was looking at Cabela's and they list several electric sharpeners, claiming they are "Professional Grade".......for over $300..........:eek:

Are they worthwhile?

My experience with an electric grinder/sharpener that was an extra feature of the then new electric countertop can opener was very memorable, and not in a good way....

.
 
I put a reprofiled and frightening edge on my HHFSH with the Lansky Sharpmaker. Took three nights while sat bored in a hotel on a business trip.

Quickest though?

I recently bought a Black and Decker Powerfile - like a miniature belt sander that you hold in your hand. It reprofiled my Hell Razor to convex and made it hair-popping sharp in about 60 minutes. A bit loud though! I just propped the powerfile on my desk, supported by a cushion, and went slow and careful at what seemed about the right angle. It really worked. Cost: £30 for the powerfile and about £25 for a good selection of belts. With practice, and a sturdy mount for the powerfile, I could probably do the job in half that time. Plus, the narrow belt is ideal for recurves.
 
For light touch ups I use a strop loaded with aluminum oxide, for heavier or when the edge needs straightening I use the butcher steels, for still heavier I use 2000 grit backed by a mousepad, then 1200G, then 500G, then I move up to the diamond stones, and if I need MAJOR reprofiling I use my Craftsman benchtop belt sander. I get all my edges to where I want them.
 
By hand with a bench stone, coarse (250) and fine (600), then maybe a quick touch on a ceramic crock stick and a few swipes on the strop. Once you get it down you can dress the blade up in no time.
 
David E said:
HOW ?

What belt grit ?
I've got a whole bunch depending on what I'm sharpening, but I like 500 grit. I just reprofiled a cheap hatchet with a thinned convexed edge and it's SOOO mean now!!!

What speed ?
On? I have no idea, I just turn it on and go. I'm really careful to keep it moving though and pay attention to keeping the blade cool. I don't want to screw up the heat treatment by heating the blade up.

What keeps your angle ?
Same thing that keeps my angle on stones: nothing. I just keep a steady hand and am very careful.

Pics ?
None yet, but they'll be around soon.

Thanks !!
Click to expand...

I've yet to do anything but hit my Busse's on the leather belt loaded with compound, but I've sharpened axe's hatchets, a cleaver, some pocket knives, machete's and some cheaper knives. I don't fully trust myself with putting a SHBM to the grind just yet, but I've done pretty well with everything else I've tried. I need to get it perfect before any INFI hits the belt with sand paper :p
 
A lot of guys are now using the $40 Harbor Freight 1 x 30 belt sander, for reprofiling and sharpening. I used a 320 grit belt and in just a few passes put a better (narrower, more acute) angle on my Swamp HR LM. Finished with a microbevel using the gray stones on a Sharpmaker, now it has a nice toothy slicing edge.

there is a lot of good info on the Maintenance forum. this thread in particular:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=496644

If you don't want to use a belt sander, the other option for serious reprofiling is the DMT D8XX (120 grit) stone.
 
I use a leather strop from Lee Valley loaded with green rouge for touch-ups and various grits of sandpaper stretched over the strop for more major sharpening.
 
resinguy said:
A lot of guys are now using the $40 Harbor Freight 1 x 30 belt sander, for reprofiling and sharpening. I used a 320 grit belt and in just a few passes put a better (narrower, more acute) angle on my Swamp HR LM. Finished with a microbevel using the gray stones on a Sharpmaker, now it has a nice toothy slicing edge.

there is a lot of good info on the Maintenance forum. this thread in particular:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=496644
Click to expand...

Word! :thumbup: I use the HF 1x30 and like using just the 20 or 40 micron belt to put on a toothy edge, then power strop with a 1x30 belt loaded with Veritas green from Lee Valley. After use I will hand strop on leather loaded with the green stuff.
 
I havent had to sharpen my Infi yet, but for my Emerson (154cm), my spyderco and striders (s30v) and my shun kitchen knives (i think vg10) Ive been very impressed with my ceramic "double stuff" sharpening stone from Spyderco. I havent had to do any heavy reprofiling with it, so you may need something electric. I have never used a strop either, but i cant imagine it getting them much sharper... It ran about $40 from their website.
 
for speed and ease i use the cardboard wheels. the way i sharpen a knife with the wheels, i can match the factory edge of the knife easily by eye. i have been sharpening knives with the wheels for about 16 years and wouldnt trade for anything. i used to have
an ez sharp which is similar to a lansky system that i bought back in the early 80's but gave it away after learning how to use the wheels. i have 3 short video's showing how quickly a burr can be worked up with the abrasive wheel. removing the burr and polishing the edge takes less time but is done in the same manner. when i sharpen a knife i made for the first time i sometimes use my belt sander to work up the burr before switching to the buffing wheel. i started sharpening knives back in school and have seen or used all kinds of contraptions but the wheels are the fastest and easiest method i have found. stevebot, a member here sells the "good", 1" thick wheels to members at a discount. koval knives sells wheels too but i dont like the set i have compared to the good ones. i think they are 3/4" thick.
 
I use sandpaper going from 150grain to 2000 grain, that I put against leather. It has made a good convex edge for me. I work the edge down on the 150 and then go from there, I dont know how long it takes as I have never timed it. Works for me though.
 
I couldn't get a Busse to shave until I started to use the sand paper/mouse pad combo. After I do that all the knife needs is a few passes on a strop and it shaves again.

If the knife's edge is really bad then I use an edge pro first and then the sand paper.

I had basic sent to me in very poor condition and I had it shaving in about 45 minutes.
 
Well belt sanders are the way to go... but not for everybody.

DMT makes 120 grit EXTRA EXTRA course Diamond stones that RIP metal off of blades.

I have reprofiled the edges on some Fat FLat FBMS that were thicker at the tip than any thing ever called a knife in the history of earth. :D

Its is possible to start with 120 grit and work your way up to 2500 grit polish on a FFFBM in about 5 to 6 hours of hand work. You will end up with a nice thin convex edge that is well worth the effort.
 
I starts with this (highly recommend for reprofiling Extra Extra Coarse by DMT) and this will be enough for shaving hair popping, hair scared away ... all this kinds of sharpness

sharpening-06.jpg


For polishing edge I use this set up with green Rouge (chromium oxide) from WoodWorks - best for polishing.

sharpening-07.jpg


Then I use same like this one thin leather screwed to wood loaded wit 1 micron, 0.3 micron and 0.15 microns diamond powder.

To make it shave hair:

hair-08.jpg


Reprofiling may take some time - 30-45 minutes with 120 grit stone, but after it done last two diamonf benchstones will be enough for resharpening, and polishing and beyond usually do not take time but a lot of accuracy and attention.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
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