i just received my ang khola villager from SVASHTAR and i must say this thing is one heavy a$$ brute. This would be a great trail knife when i go out hunting for hogs. I have never sharpened a kukri and would like to know if it would be possible to use my kalamazoo belt sander running at 1750 rpm to sharpen this knife when it gets dull? if so whats the proper method that you would recommend i do? how sharp do most of you get your knives? would hair popping sharp be unrealistic "probably any chopper being that sharp might be detrimental to the edge when chopping huh"?also i noticed that the sheath is made of hide, will a tropical enviroment like Hawaii posibbly cause it to rot? thanks for the input.
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sharpening with a belt sander? and other??
- Thread starter rctk1
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2001
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- 4,238
Dan Koster, the knifemaker who hangs out here on this forum made some excellent tutorials. They can be found here.
http://www.kosterknives.com/tutorials.htm
I did some sharpening last night on my belt sander. The coarsest belt I used was a 40 Micron. I can't remember, but that's about 400 grit. I progress to 30 micron then 6 micron, which I think is about 1200 or 1500 grit. This give an almost mirror finish. Then I strop on a piece of leather, or sometimes use an old belt turned inside out, coated with green polishing compound.
You just have to be careful not to overheat the blade, and not to round off the tip of the knife. I'd start with a very cheap knife.
Steve
http://www.kosterknives.com/tutorials.htm
I did some sharpening last night on my belt sander. The coarsest belt I used was a 40 Micron. I can't remember, but that's about 400 grit. I progress to 30 micron then 6 micron, which I think is about 1200 or 1500 grit. This give an almost mirror finish. Then I strop on a piece of leather, or sometimes use an old belt turned inside out, coated with green polishing compound.
You just have to be careful not to overheat the blade, and not to round off the tip of the knife. I'd start with a very cheap knife.
Steve
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2001
- Messages
- 4,238
I got mine from www.popsknifesupplies.com but his site seems to be down.
They are available from www.trugrit.com and from www.texasknife.com
I use the 3M Trizact brand. They seem to hold up well. You may be limited in selection by the size of the belt.
Steve
They are available from www.trugrit.com and from www.texasknife.com
I use the 3M Trizact brand. They seem to hold up well. You may be limited in selection by the size of the belt.
Steve
- Joined
- May 18, 1999
- Messages
- 15,395
ferguson said:
As my friend Steve says, "Start with a very cheap knife." The reason being is that it takes a little practice to sharpen the point without rounding it over. The closer to the point you grind the further away from the belt or grinding stone you have to hold the butt of the knife.
The same is true when honing as well. You can hold the blade pretty flat as long as it's on the edge but the closer to the point the higher you have to raise the handle.
Sounds confusing and probably is until you actually put it in practise and then you will begin to understand.
This is an excellent example of what those $1.00 to $5.00 cheap POS Flea Market Pakistani Knives are good for.:thumbup:
Cheap knives for learning to sharpen with any kind of power equipement or even a hone for that matter since they are generally soft enough to cut well.:thumbup:
I use a cheap Delta 1X30" belt sander for grinding carving tools. I use a 320 grit belt for this, but a 220 will certainly do. It does a great job.
i generally go from the sander to stones for honing. There is no reason that the sander can't do a fine job of sharpening.
i generally go from the sander to stones for honing. There is no reason that the sander can't do a fine job of sharpening.
- Joined
- May 28, 2003
- Messages
- 1,815
Tom L. turned me on to Tandy's 1" leather belt blanks for belt sander honing. They come in several waist sizes to fit your machine. Get some of their Leather Weld glue or Barge cement, and skive the ends so there is a long overlapping glued up area. Not a butt joint. Don't forget to mount the belt so that it doesn't hit the work so it undoes itself, and mark a conspicuous arrow on it to make it easier in the future... Know what I mean?