I think Bookie mentioned this before. Is anyone else touching up the edge with rods, and is able to keep the convex edge, instead of creating a micro-bevel that extends in time? For some reason, I'm looking for more control than the mousepad-abrasive paper is giving me. I have some ideas, but would be interested in hearing from people that use this approach.
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Sharpening with ceramic rods
- Thread starter Moonw
- Start date
It is, somewhat, at least. Or I made it during a sharpening 
.
My problem with the mousepad is that I tend to flatten the belly of the knives in time. Exactly what can happen on stones as well. And when working with smaller implements, such as smaller sanding blocks, I still do that, plus I hate to change the sandpaper too soon, and still can't properly touch the recurve. All tutorials suppose you have a "flattish" knife to sharpen. I think following the curve with a rod is somewhat more natural.
So I was thinking to give a 1000 or 1000+ rod a try. On an el cheapo knife first.
You can tell I'm one of those folks that are not naturally-gifted at this small task.
.My problem with the mousepad is that I tend to flatten the belly of the knives in time. Exactly what can happen on stones as well. And when working with smaller implements, such as smaller sanding blocks, I still do that, plus I hate to change the sandpaper too soon, and still can't properly touch the recurve. All tutorials suppose you have a "flattish" knife to sharpen. I think following the curve with a rod is somewhat more natural.
So I was thinking to give a 1000 or 1000+ rod a try. On an el cheapo knife first.
You can tell I'm one of those folks that are not naturally-gifted at this small task.
Putting a nice edge on a blade is rewarding and somewhat trying in the beginning. If you are timid with a favorite HI kuk, pick up one of the KLVUKs. I do find the grind is more flat compared to some of my others.
If you are going to use the mouse pad / rolling strop method, you need to be aware of when to apply the most pressure. And that would be toward the end. Start off slowly.
I have found for larger blades, axes, Bowies, sling blades to ditch bank blades, and including kuks, it's easier to manipulate the sharpening device instead of the blade, which is why you will find it so much easier to use a rod.
If you want to use the mouse pad method, try gluing a portion to a paint stick-the free kind you get at the paint store. It will be much easier for you to obtain the "roll" you want. Use the paint stick in a rolling motion. Move the paint stick, not the kuk. I'm betting you will find it more natural.
If you are going to use the mouse pad / rolling strop method, you need to be aware of when to apply the most pressure. And that would be toward the end. Start off slowly.
I have found for larger blades, axes, Bowies, sling blades to ditch bank blades, and including kuks, it's easier to manipulate the sharpening device instead of the blade, which is why you will find it so much easier to use a rod.
If you want to use the mouse pad method, try gluing a portion to a paint stick-the free kind you get at the paint store. It will be much easier for you to obtain the "roll" you want. Use the paint stick in a rolling motion. Move the paint stick, not the kuk. I'm betting you will find it more natural.
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- Joined
- Aug 26, 2010
- Messages
- 7,751
I use one but it takes so little to touch up an edge that i dont even worry about loosing convexity. Usually theres enough slop in ones technique that you wont be able to put a flat sabre grind or even micro bevel on it anyway even if you tried. Sharpie the edge and test yourself and you will see reality. I use a waterstone sometimes freehand on the hardened area and have no problem with loosing convexity. To be honest there isnt a Khuk in my collection that I had to take off so much metal to even worry about reprofiling. I have plenty of blades to spread the work out tho so it may not be case for a one blade owner (poor fella). I use a JA Henkels ceramic rod which sucks and I wont buy another but it does do the job till i get another. Problem with them is they chip so easy.
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2010
- Messages
- 5,431
I've heard of using a piece of sandpaper-wrapped broomstick for the recurves.
...I sawed off a broomstick about 1.5x the thickness of my thumb (about 2 12'' sections) and with one, I've sewn leather to it (wrapping it around, superglueing it and stitching the two ends together) to use as a strop with some compound and the other I did the same technique but with a mousepad which I stretch some sand paper around, both of which to do recurves and such. The mousepad I use for the flat and tips of the recurves
I'm crazy about uniform edges