Sharpening with sandpaper and glass--like to hear other's experiences

Bladenoobie1

Bladenoobie1

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Jul 20, 2012
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I have recently had 3x8 pieces of glass cut and purchased some 3m wetdry sandpaper to go with it. Now the sandpaper method works, gives nice looking edges too, but I have run into a few issues.

The biggest issue is the knife catching on the sand paper and cutting through it. This usually happens on the corner of the glass if I wrap the sand paper. I've tried gluing the sand paper to the glass, but the only adhesive I have on me at the moment is Elmers glue. I've been meaning to purchase some 3m spray adhesive (had a can before) and try that out.

Until then I would l like to hear experiences of other individuals when sharpening on sandpaper on glass and how the overcame the edge catching on the sandpaper.

Also is there any special technique when using sandpaper and glass? Should I use trailing strokes only?

- Bladenoobie1
 
maybe cut the paper to the size of the glass and glue it down? I use sandpaper on leather or a mousepad so it's strictly edge trailing for me :thumbup:
 
Yep, trailing strokes only. I use glass 10 in long, and 2.8 in wide, and a matching flat board. I cut 3 pieces of sandpaper out of a single sheet. Wet the glass. Fold the ends of the sandpaper over the ends of the glass, use rubber bands on the ends to hold the glass to the board. Put a rubber no-slip mat under the board. Use water on the wet-dry sandpaper, but not too much. (the picture may show sides of the sandpaper folded over, but I use the ends now. makes very little difference)

Lay the blade on the paper in bright light, and as soon as you see the shadow line disappear the edge is just touching the sandpaper. Don't raise the back any higher. You can feel when you have the knife at the bevel angle because it glides, not grinds. Too low or too high had you will feel a dragging grinding of the back of the bevel edge, or heaven forbid you are cutting a secondary bevel you didn't want.

If you use a mouse pad best to get a firm one and go light. Makes a very nice convex.

 
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I ditched my stones 10/15 years ago, went to s'paper. Added glass a few years ago. I don't trail however, I just work the face as if it were a stone-- into the edge. I'll run 320 (for major reprofiling) up to 3000. I've had no trouble w/ the blade cutting into either the face of the paper, or hanging up on the edge-- I run the edge of the paper over the edge of the glass just a hair (maybe a 32nd), seems to be enuf as the edge never catches. W/ e'thing wet/slicked down the paper wants to adhere, but I'll hold the edge of the paper on the uphill side w/ a couple free fingers, sometimes I'll straddle the blade w/ my free hand by adding my thumb on the downhill side.

I found a piece of tempered glass maybe 10"x14"x3/16"-- the slightly rounded edges of tempered I think helps reduce the "catching" you've mentioned. You could certainly dull the edges of a piece of plate glass, that should help you.
 
I think I've found a resolve. I sanded the edges up to 1000 grit and made them very smooth. Doesn't catch at all now!

At the moment I need to grab coarser grits. I'm trying to remove this messy micro bevel on my knife and 1000grit sandpaper wears very slowly. I don't want to hit the very edge--otherwise I'll be making the obtuse micro-bevel bigger.

I'm considering trying the mousepad method, my knives--most of them are already convex.
 
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