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- Jun 11, 2012
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Has anybody ever used sandstone to sharpen their Busse? Sandstone has apparently been used for quite some time sharpening knives, before the common use of synthetic stones. It is a sedimentary rock composed of mostly microscopic sand particles of varying types.
I collected two blocks of sandstone in the desert recently for experimentation with sharpening/regrinding my Scrap Yard 511. One was similar in size to a bench stone, the other smaller so it can be used in hand as a file. In order to achieve a perfectly flat grinding surface, I used the flattest surface of each rock to grind against one another with a small amount of water added as a cutting fluid.
I used the smaller piece in hand as a file after soaking with water to regrind the primary bevel my SYKCO 511. The larger piece worked well as a bench stone in the traditional way you would use a waterstone, working the secondary bevel in a back and forth motion until the apex had been cleanly formed, then stropped backwards to eliminate any burrs that may have formed.
The finish that is left when keeping the scratches in a uniform straight line from edge to spine has a subtle dull satin appearance. It actually cuts quite fast with SR-101 at 58-60 RC when the surface is kept wet to moist in order to create a thick mud on the surface that flows well when kept sufficiently saturated with water.
Pics added below.....
I collected two blocks of sandstone in the desert recently for experimentation with sharpening/regrinding my Scrap Yard 511. One was similar in size to a bench stone, the other smaller so it can be used in hand as a file. In order to achieve a perfectly flat grinding surface, I used the flattest surface of each rock to grind against one another with a small amount of water added as a cutting fluid.
I used the smaller piece in hand as a file after soaking with water to regrind the primary bevel my SYKCO 511. The larger piece worked well as a bench stone in the traditional way you would use a waterstone, working the secondary bevel in a back and forth motion until the apex had been cleanly formed, then stropped backwards to eliminate any burrs that may have formed.
The finish that is left when keeping the scratches in a uniform straight line from edge to spine has a subtle dull satin appearance. It actually cuts quite fast with SR-101 at 58-60 RC when the surface is kept wet to moist in order to create a thick mud on the surface that flows well when kept sufficiently saturated with water.
Pics added below.....

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