sharpening your axe

[siskaholic]

how do you sharpen your axe? i used to drag a file on my axe but eversince i bought a GB axe,i hate to destroy it with a file.any ideas of preserving that shaving sharp edge?

 

[Stickman]

You could use the DC4 two sided (diamond/ceramic) sharpening stone by Fallkniven or just use the same wet and dry sandpapers that you would use to sharpen a knife. Use the sandpaper with a wood backing for support...such as a paint stirrer or something similar. I would use the file or DC4 for repairs and then follow with the sandpapers in progressively finer grits depending on what type of final edge you prefer.

 

[Shotgun]

I use a wood backed leather strop with sand paper laid on top. Mouse pad also works. Bring it up as far as you want, some go to 2000 grit, then strop to remove the burr. A file should only be used to fix damage to the edge. I haven't used a file on my GB mini yet.

 

[westcoaster]

If you want to use a file, try to get your a flat Nickolson "Bastard" file. There will be one side that is double cut, dont use that side, use the single cut side that says axe on it. Wont ruin your axe at all and it will get razor like results.

Cheers

 

[BearKinder]

Running a GB, which usually comes shaving sharp, the first thing I'd get is a good strop. If you strop it every so often as you work, you rarely have to sharpen it. When you do, the fine side of an axe "puck" stone will be more than enough. Then strop it.

 

[Calebklyne]

I have yet to sharpen my gb but I do touch it up with strop and should i ever need to sharpen it i have an axe stone(puck). And remember that an axe doesn't always need to be razor sharp it can get pretty close to dull before it's no longer safe to use or effective

 

[JGON]

I use the same thing I use for my knives... my japanese water stones. In the field I use a small folding diamond sharpener. My GB is always shaving sharp...

JGON

 

[Dannyboy Leather]

When you have plenty of work to do in the woods with an axe (we professionally harvest timber on our own land), little time is available to keep the tools looking pretty. Highly efficient and sharp...yes. Pretty with a mirror finish...no.

Among many other brands (some vintage), I own several fine Granfors axes in all sizes. The full-sized axes are kept sharp by removing chips and dents with a Nicholson Black Diamond "Handy File", double cut on one side, single cut on the other. These can be purchased from many of the larger stores in the Home & Garden sections or, from your local logging supplies retailer. Once the chips are removed from the edge with the file, I move to a medium whetstone, then complete the task on a fine whetstone. This will do for active wood chopping. "Maintaining" will be easier than sharpening but the small chips and dents will happen.

At home, I sometimes take the leisure to maintain the mirror finish blade and laser sharp bit on my 'occasional use' axes. Other than some fancy machinery to do this with in the shop, I will often use a hard rubber-backed block sander (drywall style) that clamps the abrasive paper securely in place. Working through the grits, finishing up on a strop loaded with honing compound, will give the finest of polished edges that one could desire and admire. Make sure to "tailor" that grind and edge for the task and environment that you will be working in. What I use on my softwood trees won't be the best choice for what the next guy uses on his hardwood trees. Sometimes a compromise is the best choice for the bushwhacker (cutting and splitting) and his limited needs (by comparison).

The "Handy File". Note the handle shape for ease of use.

 

[killa_concept]

I sharpen using both the traditional method (file + stones + stropping) as well as the more modern method (sandpaper on soft backing). Both have their advantages and you can easily put a shaving sharp edge on an axe using either.

Vintage Gransfors Bruks double-bit sharpened using sandpaper up to 2000grit on mousepad then stropped on .3micron chrom oxide loaded leather:

Keen Kutter sharpened the traditional way using a Nicholson mill bastard file, followed by a DMT double sided diasharp in coarse/fine, then a soft arkansas stone and finally stropped on leather:

The latter I wrote in a bit of a how-to fashion, so it might be worth a read if you want to get similar results

 

[siskaholic]

thank you all for fantastic feedback and information.i love this place.
ed

 

[Operator1975]

how do you sharpen your axe? i used to drag a file on my axe but eversince i bought a GB axe,i hate to destroy it with a file.any ideas of preserving that shaving sharp edge?

Depends on the axe, and the condition. Old, rusted, chipped, etc requires some work, as we all know. If it requires some serious work, I lay into her with my grinder and grind wheel to get things basically shaped up. After that, then I will usually go the file route, again all depending. After that, I go with a sharpening stone and some oil. That should do the trick. I dont get into the ultimate sharp, cutting paper and all that. I think that is awesome, but just not for me. If I am going to use my axe, I will have already dulled the blade somewhat when I put it in my frontloader or carry case on my tractor.

I think more importantly is how do you sharpen it in the woods. Similar to a chainsaw. Axes and hatchets will get dull, dinged, bashed, hit, etc. So if you can take a few minutes to touch em up, that to me is more important that the initial sharpening. I always have a file with me to touch em up out in the woods. Im not looking for the prom queen, Im looking to get the job done. Usually a file and maybe some wd40 if you have it can work wonders out in the woods.

Thats just me. I am amazed out how sharp some of these guys can get these blades. To me that is awesome. I remember my old man one time talking to a guy about how this guys axe could cut paper. It went something like this - my dad = Sure your axe can cut paper, but when your axe fails in 2 hours to cut wood, my ax will be cutting the wood to make your paper.

I thought that was pretty cool.

But just me.

Thanks!

 

[BryFry]

Another one for sandpaper + strop. :thumbup: Though I'll start the process with my file if there's much reprofiling to be done...

..Everybody likes pics right? ....

 

[Kiltknifeguy]

To me an axe is a workhorse. I dont need a mirror finish so i just take mine out on the depndable ol burking and give it a good edge.

 

[whetrock]

Most of the time I just use my lansky puck but every once in a while I use my spyderco sharpmaker rods .

 

[omniviking]

I use a 320 grits belt on my 1" x 42" belt sander, very light pressure and progress my way up to a green / chrome strop.