Sharpening your Ka-Bar BK2?

A

atod

Joined
May 29, 2012
Messages
41
Hi Folks,

I'm returning the Lansky system because it's jig has very course degree resolution settings.

The WickedEdge or EdgePro systems look like they are more accurate, however they are almost $300 - $400! I'm not even sure the EdgePro Apex can handle the BK2. Then there is a Tormek T-7 motorized sharpener which is $600! It looks like anything under $200 is going to be Spyderco Sharpmaker or Arkanas TriHone, both which are generally free handed sharpening systems.

I would like to maintain the original 20 degree V-edge. Does anyone have recommendations based on personal experience? How long does your system take to get a sharp edge?

Thanks
 
i use a arkanas stones a medium for very very dull blades and a fine stone. it takes me under 20 mins to get it almost shaving sharp and little over 30 to get it to shave hair.
 
I convexed my 2...Personally I use some pieces of W&D sandpaper with WD-40 on them and then finnish with a leather strops, a homemade one with polishing paste on it and a proper one with compounds on it. I find the compounds "finnish" the edge and the polishing paste gives it that nice shine and micro finnish.

Edge is a little steep in this pic but you get the idea I hope.

BK-2 Convex Edge by CamH_16, on Flickr
 
monstrum said:
i use a arkanas stones a medium for very very dull blades and a fine stone. it takes me under 20 mins to get it almost shaving sharp and little over 30 to get it to shave hair.
Click to expand...

I have been considering purchasing a Arkansas Tri-Hone and using an angle device for this type of work. I watched the Spyderco Sharpmaker demo on Youtube and it seems relatively accurate for a "freehand" sharpening system with regards to angle. Do find the Arkansas stone alone allows the BK2 to slice easily through paper?

Thanks
 
I use a Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener, Hair popping sharp every time. They sell on Amazon for about 50-60 bucks. You can do knives, scissors, axe, shovels, etc. IMO, money well spent. I love a sharp knife, but I hate using stones, I dont have the patience for it. I will use stones on certain knives, but most of mine go on the Work Sharp. You may want to consider one. Good Luck.
 
I too use a work sharp knife sharpener but I never use the guides. I freehand the convex edges and I can reprofile and convex an edge in 5 mins or less. Very forgiving too. I suggest getting a simple harbor freight to convex by hand though. For V-edges, I use DMT thin diamond stones and the DMT aligner. Takes about 20 mins to get a knife sharp using those.
 
I tried the Spyderco TriBlade system tonight. The triblade comes preconfigured with 30 and 40 degree angles. It appears achieving a 20 degree angle on the BK2 is pretty much sharpening almost against the thicker part of the knife (second angle in).

I have the blade sharp enough to cut paper by sliding it a bit, however it doesn't slice right through when swiped. I'm wondering if I need a leather strop as well?

Thanks
 
Strops make such a big difference. I didnt think they were worth it at first but now I see what I was missing out on. Illbet if you strop your 2 a little it will push cut paper. Good luck.
 
I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker at the 40 angle. It works perfectly with the factory bevel. Then I hand strop it out. Mine shaves hair and cuts paper very smoothly.
 
Viper715 said:
I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker at the 40 angle. It works perfectly with the factory bevel. Then I hand strop it out. Mine shaves hair and cuts paper very smoothly.
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Thanks. What's interesting is the Spyderco Sharpmaker has only a 40 degree angle, yet the Ka-Bar BK2 comes with a 20 degree angle edge. I'm wondering the trade off between 20 degrees? Also, why would the BK2 ship with such a small angle edge?

I do know, when testing the factory blade out in the woods, the 20 degree edge split wood excellent.
 
There's a disconnect in terminology. The BK2 has an edge of 20 degrees per side or a total of 40 degrees inclusive. The sharpmakers 40 degree setting is inclusive which means it sharpens each side at 20 degrees. My BK2 matches perfectly with my sharpmaker.
 
Viper715 said:
There's a disconnect in terminology. The BK2 has an edge of 20 degrees per side or a total of 40 degrees inclusive. The sharpmakers 40 degree setting is inclusive which means it sharpens each side at 20 degrees. My BK2 matches perfectly with my sharpmaker.
Click to expand...

Duh. I feel stupid now. Thanks for clarifying this as I have been confused by the 40 degree mark on the Spyderco sharpener. So I guess it's 20 + 20 = 40. Thanks again
 
Viper715 said:
There's a disconnect in terminology. The BK2 has an edge of 20 degrees per side or a total of 40 degrees inclusive. The sharpmakers 40 degree setting is inclusive which means it sharpens each side at 20 degrees. My BK2 matches perfectly with my sharpmaker.
Click to expand...

Do you have any pointers on sharpening using Sharpmaker and BK2? I tried up to the ultra fine stones and am still unable to get razor cut through printer paper. It almost seems after the white fine stone "edge" sharpening to the flat surface, I lose some sharpness. Perhaps I'm doing something wrong?

Thanks
 
atod said:
Do you have any pointers on sharpening using Sharpmaker and BK2? I tried up to the ultra fine stones and am still unable to get razor cut through printer paper. It almost seems after the white fine stone "edge" sharpening to the flat surface, I lose some sharpness. Perhaps I'm doing something wrong?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I actually figured out one mistake that helped greatly. I should have watched the instructional video. I was previously running the knife 10 times a side, then switching to the other side. I found that alternating every stroke appears to converge the edge better. I can now somewhat cut paper easily. I think I'll need a stropping belt and they are expensive...
 
I always go alternating strokes on ceramic stones.
imho it makes a big difference.
also try using lighter pressure during your last few strokes.
Practice and patience seem to get my knives the sharpest.lol
 
I used my Lansky to get my BK2 sharp. I did have to grind a bit, but after 20 minutes I have a great edge on my BK2 and it will be super easy to sharpen from now on! The Lansky system NEVER seems to line up with factory angles, but it gets my knives really really REALLY sharp!!
 
Monofletch said:
I used my Lansky to get my BK2 sharp. I did have to grind a bit, but after 20 minutes I have a great edge on my BK2 and it will be super easy to sharpen from now on! The Lansky system NEVER seems to line up with factory angles, but it gets my knives really really REALLY sharp!!
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Thats great. I returned my Lansky system after determining that indeed, the grind angle will not be as indicated on the product. I was also fed up that Lansky *NEVER* replied to me after I sent them both a fax and email (it's been 4 weeks). The BK2 is a large knife and as such, protruding from the sharpener vice, it causes the 20 degree angle setting shown on Lansky, to end up with something much smaller like 15 degrees. You can do the geometry out by measuring each part of the triangle and take the tangent. See the following post which discusses this:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/962937-Lansky-Kit-Ka-Bar-BK2-Edge-angle
 
You may think im a bit crazy, But the fasted way i found to put a really good Edge on just about all of my blades is using the Work Sharp WSKTS Knife and Tool Sharpener You can find it on amazon for 69 bucks. it takes about 2 mins to put a razor sharp hair popping edge with most steels.
Now... It does have it's cons.
The replacement belts are a little pricey at 10 bucks for 6 belts (2, 80 grit, 2, 200 Grit, and 2, 6000 Grit) But it is the Fasted way i have found to this day.

But with a good stone and lots of practice and lots of time invested you would get the pure satisfaction of knowing you can do just as good of a job Freehand.
 
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