Sharpening ?

T

Tar18

Joined
Oct 3, 2012
Messages
144
Hi folks.
I was asked to sharpen some kitchen knives for a lad and all went well until I came to what I believe is a Henckle (sp) meat cleaver. It is a very heavy cleaver and I am not sure how to sharpen one of these. I can only assume (new at sharpening) that the edge on one of these knives should not be very fine as to the job that they do.
I am hoping that someone would be able to advise me on the edge for one of these knives. Boy is that baby heavy. I do use the Sharpmaker to sharpen my own knives as well as others.
So guys any advise would surely be great.
Regards
Tar :)
 
I do not know much about a clever but I would assume, since it is meant to be used for chopping, that the edge/apex, although likely more obtuse than knives, should be rather highly polished/very fine. There is a huge difference in performance/longevity with chopping/push cutting edges that are rather refined.
 
Yes ^. I'd imagine something in the 40* inclusive and somewhat polished would be best. Also a somewhat convexed edge might be a big boost as well.
 
I've always used a belt sander with a slack belt to convex the edge. They are so thick I could never imagine sharpening one by hand let alone a sharpmaker.
 
I sharpened a thick cleaver I bought several years ago with my 1 x 30 belt sander and let me tell you it took a while. Finally put a very nice convex edge on it but if I had to do that by hand it would have taken at least an entire day and wore me out. The convex edge on mine is fairly thick but very sharp and strong. Very easy to touch up now by hand with some ceramic rods.
 
Hi folks.
Thanks for all of the helpful hints. I do have a small belt sander and I will use that. Since I am new to sharpening and lots to learn, a couple of you folks mentioned a "convex" edge. Not sure what that is and how to sharpen it. As I said it is very heavy with a very thick edge. Using this knife would sure give you lots of muscles. :) :) From what I read now from you folks the edge still needs to be sharp. Should I be able to slice paper???? When I am done.
I will do as suggested once I find out what a convex edge is.
Thanks again.
Regards
Tar :)
 
I never put that much effort into a thick cleaver, it's made to break bones so any type of thin cutting edge would be useless. Slicing paper is a difficult test wth such a blade because of its thickness and grind geometry. It won't cut straight for very far.

It's a crushing and separating tool, doesn't even need to be shaving sharp because It's weight is doing most of the work so the geometry becomes more important than the sharpness.
 
A convex edge is produced by using the slack portion of the belt with no backing. This tends to sort of round off the edge in the shape of an appleseed. I can slice paper with mine when stropped but for a cleaver that really isn't necessary since you are usually chopping through joints and thick cuts of meat, especially if it is a heavy and thick cleaver. Be very careful not to overheat the edge by moving it fairly quickly across the belt and dip it in water frequently. You should be able to keep your fingers close to the edge and if it starts to feel warm at all then dip in water immediately. Establish the bevels with the belt sander and just finish the edge by stropping on a piece of 400 or 600 grit sandpaper laid on top of a piece of cardboard or an old soft mousepad. Another thing is you want good quality knife grinding belts instead of the harbor freight cheapies. You will remove steel much quicker and they will last much longer. if Harbor freight belts is all you got then just use them.
 
Jason:
your comment about it being a crushing separating tool is what made me ask the question on how sharp they should be. I have never used one but knew it could cut bone as well as meat.
Alex:
Thank you for the explanation and the tips about the heating. Also your comment about using the belt tends to sort of round off the edge in the shape of an appleseed. Is this the way you want the edge to be? So from what you said above then to strop it using 400 or 600 paper, the edge should be relatively sharp.
Am I understanding this the right way? Getting it sharp by way of sander.
Thanks for all of the help folks. I am learning alot from being on this forum.
I will let every one know how this works out.
Regards
Tar :)
 
The convex edge has also been called the appleseed edge. Most edges end up being somewhat convexed over time whether you want them to be or not unless you are using some sort of jig or fixture. The edge will be sharp right off the belt sander if your technique is OK but the stropping with the fine sandpaper will polish it and make it "prettier". after the sandpaper strop on some leather with green chrome paste or whatever polishing paste you have handy (black or rouge) and you will end up with a big smile on your face.
 
Thanks again Alex. I now think that I am beginning to understand even if it is small, but then on the other hand am just realizing how little that I do know. I am enjoying learning though and something else to keep this ol' lad thinking.
Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions.
Regards
Tar :thumbup:
 
Tar18, if you do a quick search for convex edge you'll see some pretty good pictures and explanations of them and how to maintain them.
 
Hi folks. An update.
I went out this morning to use my belt sander and it came out quite well. I took my time and used water but it was cold (20 deg F) but still had the water there. I slowly could feel the edge coming around. After I felt the edge was OK, I brought it in and used the sandpaper (600) on cardboard and now the cleaver has a nice edge to it.
Thanks again for all of the help guys.
It worked out really nice and now I am a happy camper plus learned some more on the way.
Regards
Tar :thumbup:
 
Does anyone know if the RC on these cleavers is low enough that a file could be comfortably used for the repair/bevel setting?
 
Probably, they are usually softer mid 50's
 
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