Sharpening

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Kevin1367

Joined
Nov 4, 2015
Messages
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I'm surely this has been talked about before but I can't seem to find specifics in a search. Do most people sharpen on their own? Or do you send them out? If so to who?
 
On my own. Would be a lot of sending out to send it to someone just to sharpen. If I've done so much damage I need to send it to get sharpened, I would probably need to send it to the shop
 
Great question! There's the simple answer and the more complicated one.

1. Most people do sharpen their knives around here with either (mousepad + progressions of sand paper), (Spyderco Sharpmaker for micro bevel maintenance), (Work Sharp Belt Grinder/Work Sharp KO Edition), (Larger Slack Belt Grinders + Progressions of sand paper), (Free Hand Sharpening with Water Stones/Diamond crusted Stones), (Edge Pro), and (Wicked Edge Sharpener). The reason why most people sharpen their knives here is because most of these people use their knives. After they're used, a small touch up /Sharpening will allow them to immediately start using their knife at optimal/near optimal performance without having to wait forever to send it somewhere to be sharpened and then sent back.

2. The best reasons to send your knife to someone else to do a "professional" quality job is if you're looking to optimize an edge. Most knife companies have variance in their knife's edge angle from hilt to tip. On top of that, many factories will send out their production knives with excess metal behind the edge. This area is often referred to as the "shoulders". The thicker the shoulders are the more drag/resistance forces you will experience, which prevent penetration. The key is to find the right level of shoulder thickness, the right edge angle, make it consistent from hilt to tip and then polish it to levels that make the knife superb in function and/or aesthetics. This is simply referred to as a complete re profiling job with high level polishing.

In some cases people want custom modification/sharpening done with unique angles in different sections of the knife. This sometimes helps to have someone skilled do this to ensure top quality work.
 
I like the Sharpmaker and the Worksharp.
I'm really confident with waterstones on thinner Japanese style chefs knives,, but for some reason prefer those two systems for my thicker Busse/kin
 
Waterstones, Arkansas and Japanese waterstones specifically. I like upkeeping my own tools and optimizing different edges for different purposes. And sharpening is relaxing, and it gives you a feel for the steel you are using.
 
Harbor freight 1x30 belt sander. Works wonders for knocking down a shoulder or creating a convex edge. Just be sure to use the right brlts in the correct order. There's even a strop belt that you can load with compound. Preeeeettty cool.
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
Harbor freight 1x30 belt sander. Works wonders for knocking down a shoulder or creating a convex edge. Just be sure to use the right brlts in the correct order. There's even a strop belt that you can load with compound. Preeeeettty cool.
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I have one of these on my bench just for sharpening with the mentioned strop belt. I am getting another leather belt for white compound. It is amazing what the machine can do once you develop the skill to free hand with it...
 
I've been wanting to try the edge pro, I still hear lots of good things about it. I use a Lansky sharpener for smaller blades and waterstones/strops for bigger ones and straight razors.
 
I have an edge pro, but I only use it on the occasional v-edge that I want to look like one of Rob-Mob's mirror edges... something I don't do very often anymore as I found pretty edges, despite all the extra time they take to produce, cut no better than an equally sharp less polished edge. In fact, in real outdoor use I find the slightly toothier ugly edge performs much better for my needs. I have razors for shaving with so maintaining a shaving edge on all of my user knives gets way too tedious with everything else I have to take care of. Not at all criticizing those who do, just saying it's not for me. :)
This was one of my first polish jobs with it years ago, I did more and got way better at it, then life took over.
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For most of my users now I find that a very low speed setting on my drill press with a mousepad backed disc yields the most controllable convex edge in a time efficient manner.
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I/you can work wonders with a coarse/fine 10 inch dmt duosharp. Best $110 ever spent. Still using the same damn stone about 10 years later

The ken onion edition worksharp is a fast way to put on a convex edge if you're looking to go that route, then I just use the mousepad "actually its about a 15 inch peice of a yoga mat ☆no its Not Mine!☆" with very high grit sandpapers for touchups. A cheaper option as mentioned above is the harbor freight belt sander. When that breaks go to amazon and get the WeN 6502 1 inch belt sander. Its built better and i use it all the time to convex my hawks and machetes

If you're looking for something to put on a high polish fancy edge "aka scary sharp" get an edge pro, Ive used an edge pro but mever bought one yet i keep blowing all my monies on more knives and bullets....
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
Harbor freight 1x30 belt sander. Works wonders for knocking down a shoulder or creating a convex edge. Just be sure to use the right brlts in the correct order. There's even a strop belt that you can load with compound. Preeeeettty cool.
Click to expand...

Never used a belt sander. Have you had any issues with overheating?

My concerns about going too quick and mucking up a heat treat have kept me from the power tool approach of sharpening.
 
Have an edge pro. Used it last week in my rodent solution. It's the first time I got it as sharp as I wanted.
 
resinguy said:
Do you sharpen your other knives? There is nothing special about sharpening Bussekin knives. As mentioned above, people who use their knives tend to learn how to sharpen their own tools. I use a HF 1x30 and a Sharpmaker.

If you are new to all this, then there is a sub-forum just for you: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/794-Maintenance-Tinkering-amp-Embellishment
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Agreed. if you can sharpen other knives, you can sharpen a Busse. I have a Workshop_Ken_Onion edition and still use a Lansky with diamond stones for about 50% of my sharpening. don't overthink sharpening. you can buy expensive diamond stones, water stones, etc or you can buy $15 worth of sandpaper from 400-2000 grit and do just as well. if you are new to sharpening, practice on a $20 Wal-Mart knife until you get the hang of it, so you don't jack up a $$$$$ knife. the only other thing I will add is to make sure you remove the burr or wire edge. if you don't have an actual strop, you can use a piece of cardboard or denim instead.

randy
 
Gunfreaker101 said:
Does anyone still use the edge pro apex? That used to be the prefeed rig.
The worksharp looks pretty sweet though.
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I've been using my Edgepro for a little over a year now- I can't get an edge good enough on traditional stones. I'll eventually learn how to convex on a belt grinder, but this is my go-to.
 
trevitrace said:
Never used a belt sander. Have you had any issues with overheating?

My concerns about going too quick and mucking up a heat treat have kept me from the power tool approach of sharpening.
Click to expand...

You only have to worry about overheating if you use worn out belts and hold the blade on it.

Use belts that cut well and there won't be any problems. Use a sharpie marker slso
 
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