Sharpening

T

Tomax

Joined
Apr 3, 2000
Messages
8
I would like to start using stones to sharpen my knives.I currently have a Gatco & Lansky sharpener. I am having a tough time holding the blade at the proper angle. This is due to my inexperience and I have a bad wrist.Does any one make a angle guide that I might be able to use to help me maintain the correct angle? Also if you have used one does it work well?
 
I do own both Gatco and Lansky.
Lansky has the advantage, that "both" angles (i.e. upside and downside) will be identical but the disadvantage, that the given angle values are "false" (they are about 4° less than given).
Gatco has the advantage, that the given angle values are "correct", but the upside and downside angles differ a little bit, due to the construction of the jig, depending on blade thickness.
NOW: both systems require that you know how to clamp your knife! Both have a tiny notch
(abt 1/4") for small knives. If you use it, the knives will be in the same position for every sharpening session. That's good.
But: for large knives holding force will be insufficient. I use the following rule: The blade ist to protrude (exactly) 1/2" while sharpening. Furthermore I keep book on every sharpening session. It helps when you sharpen the next time (might be months away...).
For VERY large knives I use the edgepro pro sharpener, expensive, but the best.
The chosen angle is always the next below a sharpmaker (i.e. 30° or 40°) so I can use the sharpmaker to get ultimate sharpness AND use it for maintaining this sharpness until next honing session is required. (after MANY upkeeps!)
Never forget to use a colormarker on the edge to identify the angle with the first (easy!) stroke. It prevents hours of regrinding in case of an error!!!
For more details e-m@il if you wish.
Happy sharpening.
smile.gif


------------------
D.T. UTZINGER
 
Tomax, A few years back my wife purchased a "Blade Master" kit for me from Smokey Mountain Knife Works. It has a guide that clamps to the blade for a smooth precise swipe every time and you can even set the guide to different angles. It comes with several different stones. With a bit of patience, a good edge can be obtained every time. I think its great.-max7474
 
You might also want to looks at the Razor Edge guides from www.razoredgesystems.com. They clamp on the blade spline, are are used to maintain a conistent angle when using a benchstone.



[This message has been edited by Justin Moore (edited 04-08-2000).]
 
I've done a search and read all the posts I could find and have decided to either go with the Sharpmaker or the EdgePro.
My question to any of you who have experience with the EdgePro; is it worth the difference in price? The Apex model lists for $125. A set of additional honing stones is another $39. I really don't mind spending that much IF the system is easy to use and produces superior results.
Please let me know your thoughts. I need to make a decision soon.
Thanks,

Bill
 
Bill -

I own both the Gatco kit, and the Spyderco 204. I started out with the Spidey, and at one time, thought that it wasn't doing the job, because of what I perceived to be inconsistencies in how the edge took.

So, I bought the Gatco, and tried that. Got a very consistent edge angle, but it just didn't seem to be sharp enough. So, back to the Spyderco... and WOW! What a difference.

The upsdide to the Gatco (and, I guess, others like it) is that you benefit from some very consistent angles, due to the bracket clip. Even if you clip it wrong, you'll still get what you set up for... although along the wrong axis. The downside is that for me, it just didn't seem to be sharp enough.

The upside to the Spyderco is that their ceramic rods really do seem to kick butt, where the sharpening aspects are concerned... but it's sometimes difficult to hold your hand precisely at a 90-degree angle all the way through the stroke. The other downside is that you can grind off the tip of your knife easily, if you're not careful. Problem here is that if you ARE careful, then you're not sharpening all the way to the tip of the blade.

So, my solution? Both. Gatco for starters, to get the angle set, and even out the inconsistencies... and then finish with the Spyderco for sharpness - it seems those "Alumina-Ceramic-whatchamacallits" really work well... at least until something new comes along. Maybe I'll try that "Razor Edge" jammy...

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks, that does help, but I'm still not quite sure. I just spoke to Ben Dale of EdgePro. He claims that his system will put an edge on your knife better than any edge that comes on a new knife, including customs.
He said at knife shows he will often sharpen a knife for someone who has just bought it from a custom maker. The edge is so much better (sharper) that the people take it back to the knife maker and he can't believe it.
The big question is, do I want to spend that much money? I'm begining to think I will.

Bill
 
Bill,

I own the Edge Pro, Professional model, and IMHO it is worth every penny it cost. It is the best sharpener out there, and you can put whatever angle you want on a blade quickly and it will get any blade "scary" sharp!!
The unit is extremely well made and will last a lifetime easily, probably several if cared for.
 
Larry -

Can you give me the URL for that knife sharpening kit of yours? Have you tried the other kits by Lansky, Gatco, Spyderco, etc.?

Any insight would help. I'm sure this question comes up about 4 times per month here on the board. Is there a definitive thread that stands as a reference we can look at to figure out what works for us?

Thanks in advance!
RK
 
I think it's important for a knife user to be well versed in various sharpening methods. You never know when you'll be stuck in the middle of no-where with a smooth rock and a dull knife. The freehand method is the most satisfiying when learned properly. The "V-sticks" are good for quick edge touch-up but I find that I have to "reset" the edges every so often on a bench stone or other system.

The various "angle guide" systems on the market offer a marked improvement over free hand sharpening for most people. In fact, I've never met anyone who could actually sharpen a knife as good freehand as he could using an angle guide...but I'm sure he's out there somewhere. Of the guide systems out there...the best by far, IMHO, is the Edge Pro system. It is the most expensive...but knowing what I know now, if I had to start all over it's the only one I would bother to own. You can sharpen almost anyting with an edge regardless of blade shape, thickness, length, profile, etc...and the edge achieved is literally frightening. Buy it once...use it forever (I would still encourage one to become proficient with a plain old flat stone...just in case
smile.gif
).

In any case, the sharpening articles by Joe and others are excellent and should be considered a "must read" by any knife-nut.

Take care and good luck,
Cecil Self

------------------
Cecil Self
SELF Knives
Arrow-Dynamics Cutting Tools
www.arrow-dynamics.com

[This message has been edited by Cecil Self (edited 04-29-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Cecil Self (edited 04-29-2000).]
 
I decided to order the EdgePro and received it last week. I set it up and then practiced on a couple of kitchen knives before sharpening anything I really cared about. Even though I only sharpened 3 knives and do not yet feel completely comfortable with it, I was still able to restore my Sebenza to hair shaving sharp. The edge itself is polished to a mirror finish. And I know I can get an even better edge with a little more practice.
I'm completely happy with the EdgePro and can highly recommend it to anyone interested in getting the best edge possible on theit knives.

Bill
 
I tend to try to use the crossed ceramic stick type sharpeners as much as possible. Reason being is that they seen, at least for me to be the easiest way to keep a good edge with an equal grind on each side of the blade. Of course this means that you have to try to keep a good edge on knives as the crossed ceramic sticks are not much good for blades that are very dull or that need re-edging altogether. I think that I am as good as most and better than many in the use of a sharpening stone but I try to keep my knife edges sharp with ceramic sticks to try to avoid using a stone.
 
I am seeking advice on sharpening serated and scalloped blades. I don't generally buy those types of blades but I do have a couple and they are in need of a touch-up. I have been using a small ceramic rod and a small diamond rod but they are time consuming and difficult. Can anyone offer advice? Thanks.
 
I am seeking advice on sharpening serated and scalloped blades. I don't generally buy those types of blades but I do have a couple and they are in need of a touch-up. I have been using a small ceramic rod and a small diamond rod but they are time consuming and difficult. Can anyone offer advice? Thanks.
 
I am seeking advice on sharpening serated and scalloped blades. I don't generally buy those types of blades but I do have a couple and they are in need of a touch-up. I have been using a small ceramic rod and a small diamond rod but they are time consuming and difficult. Can anyone offer advice? Thanks.
 
Rovert,

Yes, I have tried the three sharpening systems you mentioned, plus many more! The Edge Pro is in another class, IMHO.
What I like about the Edge Pro is that it is quick, and you can put whatever angle you want on a blade. I even sharpen my custom, forged belt hatchet on it...and it is very sharp.
I don't have the address of Edge Pro at the moment, however, you can use a search engine to locate it.
I do think that ceramic sticks are ok if you have only one knife to sharpen and if the fixed angle of the 204 is ok for your blade.
 
Try to mark your edge with a felt tip marker so you can see if you are making contact with the edge as you sharpen. I would suggest to invest in either a Diamond or Ceramic hone. They are a bit pricey, but they are worth it. Especially when dealing with harder steels that can be time consuming on a traditional stone. Also, strop your blade on a piece cardboard. I know it sounds funny, but it works.
 
I'm not pro at it but I think I can put a pretty good edge on most any knife. While I own some of the Clamp type precision kits, I prefer to hand sharpen my using knives on a stone and crossed ceramic sticks. I can free hand sharpen most regular blades on a flat stone pretty well.

I own a number of sharpening stones. I also have a Smith's Tri-Stone set, a Smith's Precision Sharpening Kit, and a Lansky Custom Knife Sharpening Kit. I have 3 different Edgemaker Pro Knife Sharpeners, an EZ-Lap diamond pocket sharpening rod, 2 different sized Smith's Sharpening Sticks (crossed ceramic sticks, several individual ceramic sticks, and some Normark Knife Sharpeners (these are very inexpensive, have one set each of crossed coarse and fine ceramic sticks - and are great for keeping an edge touched up - if you don't have one you might want to consider getting one).

But, I do need some advice on sharpening serrated and scalloped blades. It is my understanding that a true serrated blade is ground on both sides of the edge of the blade and a scalloped blade is ground on only one side of the edge of the blade. I have tried the trianglar stones which do not work well in my opinion. I saw a diamond sharpener today that looked a bit like a lonf ice pick that I think might work better on serrated and scalloped blades.

Any advice here at all on sharpening serrated and scalloped blades?

Thanks.
 
I have not tried it but Lanksy makes a stand for their sharpener. This might help your "bad wrist". By the way what are you sharpening?

I find the Lanksy does not grip the blade very well sometimes. This is expecially true for flat ground blades which have no flat areas for the clamp. The only solution is to tighten down hard on the blade.

Also, if the blades are large you have to move the guide along the blade. This can be frustrating as it is very difficult to get it in the same angle again.

Will
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top