Sharpening

Pygmalion

Pygmalion

Joined
Oct 7, 2007
Messages
988
I have tried to sharpen a couple of my users with the old mouse pad and sandpaper technique, and I cannot for the life of me get them even remotely sharp. Does anyone know of any detailed instructions showing how to do this. Maybe I should ask Santa for an EdgePro.
 
I put this together a while ago:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=482765&highlight=finally

There are lots of threads here about that technique. The sandpaper technique will give you a convex edge, which is great for choppers, but not as good for slicing. When I wrote that thread I was convexing all my blades, big and small, but have since gone to V-edges on my smaller blades. I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker on them and it works very well. I have also toyed with the thought of buying an Edge-Pro or Bladesharpener, both of which are highly regarded here and on Rat Chat.

For me I think the Spyderco system is the way to go for the smaller blades. It's so easy to get a razor edge. I do typically lightly strop the blades on leather after using the fine stones on the Spydie. Good luck and remember to keep praticing. It will come in time.
 
Thanks, Mike. Now one more thing... stropping. I know it is a piece of leather, but I cannot find the proper technique. I think the knife edge is pulled along the leather with the edge on the leather heading spine first, Just like if it were on the sandpaper.???
 
Correct. Take the blade and lay the edge on the leather. Pull the blade across the strop so that the spine is the leading edge. This will help to remove and residual burrs and align the steel. Let me know if I can be of more help. But remember I'm no expert.:D
 
Bark River knives collector's ass'n has a decent tutorial on their website. I use a firmer type of mousepad, which is also thinner, that I've cut in half and glued back to back so it is the same size as the sandpaper I'm using. I start at 400 grit and work up to 2000. Sometimes I stop at 600 grit.

When I draw the blade across the paper, I try to keep the blade flat or almost flat, and use only the weight of the blade. At the end of the stroke, make sure you don't tilt the blade up. It will take a while to get the edge going, but belive me it's worth the trouble.

If the edge feels right, I strop on leather a few times, and then maybe a light swipe with a Spyderco ceramic stick on each side and it's good to go. If you edge has that dull, ball bearing feel to it, you are holding the blade with too much angle and using too much pressure.
 
OK, a little light has come on inside my head! I have discovered my two main problems. 1. I've been holding the blade at too much of an angle. I've been holding at about 18 - 20 deg up from the horizontal surface of the sand paper. I need to hold flatter.
2. I have not been giving it enough time.
and 3. Pressing too hard.
Thanks everyone.
 
I've tried them all. My best friend is a 20x lighted magnifier when setting the edge on a Gatco or Lansky. I use a Sharpmaker to do the very edge, then a final strop on 1500 sandpaper to remove the tiny burr. It leaves a very small convex that slices well and seems to last the best for me. I touch up with sandpaper until the edge needs to be freshened which is very seldom. The magnifier helps me avoid wasting time and steel- if you have not used one, you will be amazed at what goes on during sharpening. :)Regards, ss.
 
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