Sharpening

Joined
May 13, 2010
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29
Hey guys,

So, I'm relatively new to the knife world. On a limited budget, what would you recommend as the best stones to sharpen knives with. Bear in mind that I will never have my blades worn down to dull.
All I am looking for are stones to get my blades very sharp and to maintain that edge.


Thanks In advance
Reaper
 
Bear in mind that I will never have my blades worn down to dull.

Do you have any experience sharpening?

If I were you I would just get a Lansky system or a Sharpmaker. The stones are nice, but it's a process to learn, and since you're new to the knife world (everyone it seems is lately), you might get discouraged by not being able to maintain your edges.
 
On a limited budget, what would you recommend as the best stones to sharpen knives with.

There is no such thing as "Best", it is a subjective term, also types of stones will differ depending on the steel your knife is composed of as well as your own abilities. Some of the highest quality ($$$) stones won't be able to do anything on a modern supersteel.

I've got all the sharpening "gear" from over 20 years of collecting, but I still typically rely on my Spyderco sharpmaker for good general sharpening, or a series of fine grit sandpapers (320, 400, 600, 1000, 2000 grits) to sharpen my knives. I use both glass pane and soft surface (mousepad) depending on the type of edge.
 
Greetings Reaper16: If your primarily interested in making and keeping your new knife sharp with the least amount of complications, get a Sharpmaker. It provides the SHORTEST learning curve and LEAST opportunity to screw up an edge. It is probably the EASIEST to use without prior sharpening experience. Another plus is a Small foot print, no oil, no water, no stone dishing no break in period no dislodged grit or dust. Even many who use other sharpening methods still find the Sharpmaker excellent for maintaining a sharp edge. It can also be used to reprofile but is very time consumptive. The Sharpmaker is however limited to two preset sharpening angles of either 30 or 40 degrees but you can adjust for more. Used as per the included video and printed instructions it will get the job done and produce a consistently even and sharp edge. At about $50.00, it comes with medium and fine grit ceramic rods, a case/base, hand guards, a DVD and instruction booklet. OldDude1
 
Greetings Reaper16: If your primarily interested in making and keeping your new knife sharp with the least amount of complications, get a Sharpmaker. It provides the SHORTEST learning curve and LEAST opportunity to screw up an edge. It is probably the EASIEST to use without prior sharpening experience. Another plus is a Small foot print, no oil, no water, no stone dishing no break in period no dislodged grit or dust. Even many who use other sharpening methods still find the Sharpmaker excellent for maintaining a sharp edge. It can also be used to reprofile but is very time consumptive. The Sharpmaker is however limited to two preset sharpening angles of either 30 or 40 degrees but you can adjust for more. Used as per the included video and printed instructions it will get the job done and produce a consistently even and sharp edge. At about $50.00, it comes with medium and fine grit ceramic rods, a case/base, hand guards, a DVD and instruction booklet. OldDude1

old dude is a wise man! +1
 
Thanks...

All I have is a small stone..no idea of grit..and another that is in the body of a pen that has a flat end and a round cone end.

Wow $50 that isnt bad at all I was expecting a lot more...and a much more complicated answer, something other than :this is all you will need, pretty much forever.
 
For a beginner, I generally recommend a Norton Coarse/Fine India stone. One side is orange (fine) and the other is gray/brown (coarse). Get at least the 6" by 2" model, though the width isn't as critical for knives. I prefer at least the 8" long model. This stone will give edges that will catch the hair on the back of your head without touching the skin, and with practice you can whittle a beard hair held between your fingers. Sharpen 10 - 20 strokes per side, then change sides until you feel a burr on the opposite side you just sharpened, i.e. if you just sharpened the left side, the burr will be on the right. Make sure you can feel a burr on each side, to make sure both sides are even. Then move to the fine stone, raise the angle so just the very edge hits the stone, and make alternating strokes with light pressure until the burr is gone, typically 5-10 strokes per side. You can use honing oil if you want, but I always used mine dry and ran it through the dishwasher every so often. You can also clean it with Comet or dishsoap and a toothbrush. If you can do trigonometry, raise one end off the table to give the desired angle, then sharpen holding the knife blade parallel to the table (flat). If you can't do trig, raise the 8" stone 3 inches off the table for a 20 degree edge, then raise it another 1/2" for removing the burr. For a 6" stone, start with 2" then move to 2.5". The exact angle isnt that critical, but this helps keep the angle consistent.

Oh yea, the 8" models are about $25 at Grainger or most woodworking stores. I have a Sharpmaker, but if your edge doesnt match the 30 or 40 degree slots, its really frustrating, and you'll eventually need a coarse stone anyway.
 
I think I'll go with the sharpmaker first, and then worry about that stone later...since it wont cost much more. Mainly b/c it sunds like the sharpmaker comes with alot of useful info etc.
 
Plus 1 on the Sharpmaker. Even if you still don't know how to freehand you can keep your knives hair popping sharp. You can also use the the SM as a benchstone using the slots in the base.
 
Do yourself a favor, save the money spent on half-measures, and invest in the Edgepro Apex. It is what they say it is!
 
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