I have a Randall model 14 in stainless and I can't get an edge on it no matter what I do. It wasn't sharp right out of the box so I started working on it. I have tried high quality whetstones, a Lansky system, and various diamond hones. I have used the sharpening method recommended on the Randall website. I don't know what else to do except use my Dremel tool, but I hate to resort to power. The edge is no different now than it was when new. It is as though I haven't even worked on it. By the way, what kind of stainless steel does Randall use and is it forged or stock removal ? Can someone offer some suggestions ? Thank you very much in advance for responding.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
Sharpening
- Thread starter westfi1
- Start date
Holy crap dude 
...DO NOT use that dremel tool in the name of all that's holy!
Put down the power tools and step away from them please. That's a very expensive knife that you will turn into a letter opener real quick.
A. Learn to sharpen correctly freehand. There are hundreds of threads on here with much detail.
B. Barring that, go with something like an EdgePro. They're expensive but you will get results and you'll learn about the mechanics of sharpening.
C. Barring even that, there is a gentleman here (RichardJ) who is a master knife sharpener...the man is apparently a wizard or necromancer or maybe he just sold his soul at the Crossroads...or probably he's just practiced a lot but EVERYBODY is very happy with his work. That's obviously gonna be the quickest way to get your knife sharp.
Use a dremel tool to sharpen, well, nothing that I can think of. You will ruin that knife with one in about 5 seconds.
Very scary post.
...DO NOT use that dremel tool in the name of all that's holy!Put down the power tools and step away from them please. That's a very expensive knife that you will turn into a letter opener real quick.
A. Learn to sharpen correctly freehand. There are hundreds of threads on here with much detail.
B. Barring that, go with something like an EdgePro. They're expensive but you will get results and you'll learn about the mechanics of sharpening.
C. Barring even that, there is a gentleman here (RichardJ) who is a master knife sharpener...the man is apparently a wizard or necromancer or maybe he just sold his soul at the Crossroads...or probably he's just practiced a lot but EVERYBODY is very happy with his work. That's obviously gonna be the quickest way to get your knife sharp.
Use a dremel tool to sharpen, well, nothing that I can think of. You will ruin that knife with one in about 5 seconds.
Very scary post.
- Joined
- May 31, 2011
- Messages
- 1,124
Well, let's not get TOO crazy about power tools. The paper wheels and belts both work quite well. But the dremel... yeeeah, that's a disaster waiting to happen.
I'd guess that your problem is the angle is set way too low, and all the sharpening you have done has yet to actually get the grinding down TO the edge. An easy way to discover that is the "sharpie trick". Just grab any ol' sharpie marker you have laying around and color the bevels of the edge thoroughly. Then make a couple swipes across the stone or plate of your choice, and inspect the edge to see where the marker has been removed. If my bet is on the money, I'd guess that there will be a lot of marker left down at the edge, indicating that all the grinding you have done is just up on the shoulders and is not effecting the edge itself at all.
Solution to THAT is patience. That Lansky system is MORE than capable of doing the job and getting a darn good edge, but it's likely going to take a fair bit of work to get the bevels worked back far enough that you can actually work on the EDGE. If you do not wish to invest the time or don't have the confidence to take this one on as a starter, I'd definitely second the "send it to Richard" plan. He can easily re-profile it for you and put a vicious edge on it. Since he will have done the re-profiling already, you should be more than capable of keeping it sharp as needed since you will not be needing to change the bevel angles, just keep the edge itself in good shape.
I'd guess that your problem is the angle is set way too low, and all the sharpening you have done has yet to actually get the grinding down TO the edge. An easy way to discover that is the "sharpie trick". Just grab any ol' sharpie marker you have laying around and color the bevels of the edge thoroughly. Then make a couple swipes across the stone or plate of your choice, and inspect the edge to see where the marker has been removed. If my bet is on the money, I'd guess that there will be a lot of marker left down at the edge, indicating that all the grinding you have done is just up on the shoulders and is not effecting the edge itself at all.
Solution to THAT is patience. That Lansky system is MORE than capable of doing the job and getting a darn good edge, but it's likely going to take a fair bit of work to get the bevels worked back far enough that you can actually work on the EDGE. If you do not wish to invest the time or don't have the confidence to take this one on as a starter, I'd definitely second the "send it to Richard" plan. He can easily re-profile it for you and put a vicious edge on it. Since he will have done the re-profiling already, you should be more than capable of keeping it sharp as needed since you will not be needing to change the bevel angles, just keep the edge itself in good shape.
If you're going to send it anywhere, send it back to Randall. Tell them that you are not happy with the edge and they'll bend over backwards to help. When they made my model 15, I wasn't satisfied with the spacing of the finger grips (I have small hands) they put on. I sent it back and they removed the handle and fabricated an entirely new one for me without charge. I'm pretty sure they won't mind spending an extra few minutes correcting your edge.
Stitchawl
Stitchawl
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,196
High end knives have a heat treatment to the steel that is unlike production knives. The maker has mastered their steels heat treat and will usually run fewer knives to better control the the consistency in each knife. These heat treatments that offer better performance also require a more attentive sharpening. Spending more time with each stone and keeping a tight grit progression is a must as is holding a consistent angle.
As others has advised, please keep the dremel away from the Randall.
westfi1, i seen your post in the randall thread. i can sharpen it up for you or help you get it sharp. and like melvin said, do not take the dremel to it. here is my sharpening service thread you can check out with posts of members i have sharpened knives for. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/861580-Professional-knife-sharpening