Sharper Fiddlebacks

Fiddleback

Fiddleback

Knifemaker
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
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For years I've been trying to get better edges on my knives with varying levels of success. The level of production we are at now requires faster methods as well. We've been trying new methods this year to try to improve sharpness and efficiency. Since my visit to Bark River and with the help of Mike I am proud to say we are getting MUCH better edges on our knives. I hope you've noticed this too! :thumbup:
 
I noticed Andy. The edge on the Bushcrafter Jr. I got a couple of weeks ago is the sharpest and most even grind from front to back of any Fiddlebacks that I have received. I sent Ken a PM right away to compliment you on that. Since you started this thread, I'll repeat it again.

I have a question for you about your Bark River visit. Do you believe that your convex grind with a small secondary bevel offers a performance advantage over Bark River's full convex grind. I know that you have discussed this before. I am just curious if you learned anything there that changed your perspective.

Thanks,

Phil
 
Appreciate the continuous improvement mindset Andy! Haven't purchased one since you visited BRKT, looking forward to checking out the improvement sometime in the future.

I've always been partial to convex zero grinds myself, but I do see secondary bevels having their own merits (even BRKT has a "micro" bevel on lot of their CPM3V models). But with 01 steel, it's relatively easy to reprofile it on the stones, sandpaper, etc., so I've always just re-ground the edges myself based on the specific application for each model (for me that is). One added bonus too when it comes to cutting performance is that FB's are typically thinner in blade thickness than most BRKT models (of course not bashing BRKT, the Aurora is one of my favorite bushcraft knives ever)
 
I just received my new HB from last Friday; Finnish Burch, blk bolsters, A2. My first impressions are:
It may be the finest small knife I have ever held; the new tumbled finish on the A2 is visually perfect; the fat handle may be my perfect edc grip; and last but not least it is sharper than any FB I have ever had. Oh yeah, a new favorite!
 
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I think a zero edge has cutting advantages and strength disadvantages. It also has disadvantages wrt producing a professional looking knife with our methods. We finish on belts while Mike finishes on wheels. It almost naturally zeros itself in his process and produces even scratch patterns as he goes. But its not the best for making accurate plunges and grind lines at the back of the grind. Those two features are important to me. In addition, and this is the real reason I do a secondary bevel, most folks can't sharpen a zero, but most folks can sharpen a secondary beveled knife.
 
Fiddleback said:
I think a zero edge has cutting advantages and strength disadvantages. It also has disadvantages wrt producing a professional looking knife with our methods. We finish on belts while Mike finishes on wheels. It almost naturally zeros itself in his process and produces even scratch patterns as he goes. But its not the best for making accurate plunges and grind lines at the back of the grind. Those two features are important to me. In addition, and this is the real reason I do a secondary bevel, most folks can't sharpen a zero, but most folks can sharpen a secondary beveled knife.
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Thank you for that insight into the logic for your choice of grinds. Your explanation is very clear and I get what you saying about accuracy and evenness at the back of the grind. I notice that detail every time I get one of your knives in addition to the sharpness. You have that detail mastered in my opinion.

I own, use, and enjoy knives from both companies and I will continue to do so.

Thanks,

Phil
 
Vernal2014 said:
What is the recommend sharpening method for these knives?
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As long as you're not batoning through concrete blocks, you should be able to maintain your edge for a long time with nothing more than a leather strop and some black, white and green compound.
 
Fiddleback said:
...this is the real reason I do a secondary bevel, most folks can't sharpen a zero, but most folks can sharpen a secondary beveled knife.
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Heartily agree with that, certainly helps out when you can try to match the bevel in the field and also the shoulders at the top of the bevel, keeping them from being to shoulder...if that's even a word but I do like the sounds of it ;) is always good to soften those shoulder edges to promote easier separation of material you are cutting through.

A side note, just got in a Mid Tech Runt, she arrived nice and sharp sir, thanks very much!

G2
 
G2
I've admired your leatherwork on here for sometime. I'm happy to see you posting here on Andy's corner of bladeforums.
 
Thanks Andy.
I got a pocket kephart a few weeks ago from Friday and the secondary it came with felt like 60 degrees inclusive and cut dreadfully. I spent a couple hours on stones and strops and now it's cutting very well.
I got a new HB on Friday from you and it came with a great edge on it. Couple strops for good measure only.
Fit and finish was amazing on them both. I love these knives, certainly my top two right now.
 
Thanks Vance, he makes some beautiful stuff and while I'm not to big on carbon blades, the mid tech line in S35vn I think will attract more to his work too.
G2
 
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