sharpmaker: blade level?

[mr_dove]

I've yet to use my new sharpmaker but I was thinking about a little tool that would be useful in making sure the blade gets held at the proper angle.

A small/tiny level which clamps to the top edge of the blade to tell you if the blade is actually perpendicular to the ground.

I've yet to use mine but I can see that it would be possible to tilt the blade a bit too much so that the blade doesn't sharpen properly.

 

[sting7777]

one of the great things about a sharpmaker is that it doesnt use clamps

seriously folks - if you cant hold a knife straight - maybe you should send your knives out to be sharpened...

 

[Jeff Clark]

A slight variability in your stroke will not reduce your blade sharpness. Variation is actually helpful in mitigating the effects if the medium rods set at a slightly greater angle than the white rods. I wouldn't bother with a level. The most common problem is when you have a blade that is ground at a more obtuse angle than the one you are using on the Sharpmaker. The best way to see if you have this problem is the "Magic Marker" trick. Blacken the sides of your edge with a permanent marker. Do a few regular strokes on your rods. Look and see if the bright strip where the ink is removed touches the edge (good) or is isolated from the edge a bit (more work to do).

 

[klattman]

I've yet to use my new sharpmaker but I was thinking about a little tool that would be useful in making sure the blade gets held at the proper angle.

A small/tiny level which clamps to the top edge of the blade to tell you if the blade is actually perpendicular to the ground.

I've yet to use mine but I can see that it would be possible to tilt the blade a bit too much so that the blade doesn't sharpen properly.

I thought about that too, but then realized that it is a lot less work to hold the blade straight.

A level would be complicated. it would fit on the spine, it would have to be narrower than 30 degrees, it would have to clamp onto the knife straight. What about a recurve or swept point blade, you would have to be able to see the level even when pitching the knife forward or back.

Better option, tape a piece of cardboard horizontally on the knife spine. Cut it so that when the blade is vertical, the cardboard just touches the rod on that side, trim likewise for the other side.

Still simpler to close one eye and look at the blade, don't worry, you'll get the hang of it in short order.

 

[Esav Benyamin]

A few points of advice, to make it easier to keep the knife vertical.

1) Hold the knife in a saber grip, that is, with your thumb extended out over the back of the blade.

2) Stand so your elbow is about the height of the Sharpmaker. I use mine standing at the kitchen counter.

3) Stroke down the rods slowly, gently, and in an even, relaxed rhythm -- a little slower at first, then as you get into it, you will speed up a bit naturally and comfortably.

4) Don't worry about all the little details as you practice on a cheap knife at first -- that's why you're practicing. Form and rhythm are the key.

 

[dsvirsky]

A few points of advice, to make it easier to keep the knife vertical.

1) Hold the knife in a saber grip, that is, with your thumb extended out over the back of the blade.

Ironically, it works better for me if I hold the knife with my wrist supinated as though I was holding a foil or epee -- this allows me to see the liners/scales as well as the blade and makes it easier to tell if the knife is tilted to one side or the other.

 

[DRider]

I thought about that too, but then realized that it is a lot less work to hold the blade straight.

A level would be complicated. it would fit on the spine, it would have to be narrower than 30 degrees, it would have to clamp onto the knife straight. What about a recurve or swept point blade, you would have to be able to see the level even when pitching the knife forward or back.

Better option, tape a piece of cardboard horizontally on the knife spine. Cut it so that when the blade is vertical, the cardboard just touches the rod on that side, trim likewise for the other side.

Still simpler to close one eye and look at the blade, don't worry, you'll get the hang of it in short order.

Just kiddin' now but some great images came to mind:

Attempt one: rubber banded spirit level to knive. On first stroke, severed rubber band. Level fell and broke. Took break to clean fluid and glass from the Sharpmaker.

Attempt two: set up laser level. On first stroke, laser reflected from blade and flash burned my retina. Took another break to go to the clinic, get some eye medicine, eye patch...

Attempt three: with one eye, could see blade was verticle. Sharpened knife really well. Sharpening seems like a lot of work, but happy with the result. Stabbed self in leg though due to lack of depth perception...

 

[SIFU1A]

i agree be carefull, the rods have some play though, it doesnt seem to hurt that there is some variance.

 

[OwenM]

I think the angle needs to change with the curvature of the blade, and get better results keeping the edge perpendicular to the stone, not parallel with the ground. The only time I keep the blade level is sharpening a wharncliffe or sheepsfoot blade with a straight edge.

Go slow, and pay attention to what you're doing-every knife is different. Keep your rods clean. They won't sharpen evenly or as quickly when they're loaded up. I scrub mine with a Brillo or Scotchbrite pad and Comet.
Hope that helps

 

[Shivakicustomknives]

I've yet to use my new sharpmaker but I was thinking about a little tool that would be useful in making sure the blade gets held at the proper angle.

A small/tiny level which clamps to the top edge of the blade to tell you if the blade is actually perpendicular to the ground.

I've yet to use mine but I can see that it would be possible to tilt the blade a bit too much so that the blade doesn't sharpen properly.

Master Ki here.
Lay out a sheet of paper with a straight horozontal line.
Use a protractor and start on the far left and draw a line at 17 degree`s, one at 20 degree`s, and one at 24 degree`s, and one more at 30 degree`s.
Use at the least, a letter size sheet, on it`s side. 2 foot x 3 foot, on white poster board. Set it right on thew other side of where you are about to
sharpen. Now it get`s weird. That`s just me.
Secure the blade in a comfortable position so you can hold the stone
in your finger tip`s, generally involve the finger`s of the other hand as well. And WORK the edge. YOU have absolute control of preassure, angle, and you just sculpt a bevel at a constant angle, casually.
Now, THE BIG SECRET, stropping. An art in itself. One terribly important tip, DO NOT FLIP IT OVER AT THE END OF EACH STROKE.Hold with thumb on side of handle, other hand light to moderate weight , fingertip`s, on the middle of the blade. 6 strokes, all the way off the end. 6 strokes the other way, hands reversed. White rouge on a leather belt, contact cemented toa straight, flat board, 1 inch is nice.
There you go buddy, you got it straight from the Masters fingers.

Master Shiva Ki

 

[Shivakicustomknives]

Master Ki here.
Lay out a sheet of paper with a straight horozontal line.
Use a protractor and start on the far left and draw a line at 17 degree`s, one at 20 degree`s, and one at 24 degree`s, and one more at 30 degree`s.
Use at the least, a letter size sheet, on it`s side. 2 foot x 3 foot, on white poster board. Set it right on thew other side of where you are about to
sharpen. Now it get`s weird. That`s just me.
Secure the blade in a comfortable position so you can hold the stone
in your finger tip`s, generally involve the finger`s of the other hand as well. And WORK the edge. YOU have absolute control of preassure, angle, and you just sculpt a bevel at a constant angle, casually.
Now, THE BIG SECRET, stropping. An art in itself. One terribly important tip, DO NOT FLIP IT OVER AT THE END OF EACH STROKE.Hold with thumb on side of handle, other hand light to moderate weight , fingertip`s, on the middle of the blade. 6 strokes, all the way off the end. 6 strokes the other way, hands reversed. White rouge on a leather belt, contact cemented toa straight, flat board, 1 inch is nice.
There you go buddy, you got it straight from the Masters fingers.

Master Shiva Ki

Easy way, get a three slot Magic Chef,
seriously.

 

[allyourblood]

Easy way, get a three slot Magic Chef,
seriously.

woah, that's messed up. you're kidding, right? these things are one big joke on any knife owner. BLEH.

abe m.

 

[basjoo]

It's best to learn to do it without mechanical aid, just go slow until your muscle memory gets it. One thing that may help is to set the sharpener on a waist high surface so you can look down on it and see whether the blade is perpendicular to the surface. Like alot of things, practice makes perfect.

 

[Neko2]

Master Ki here.
Lay out a sheet of paper with a straight horozontal line.
Use a protractor and start on the far left and draw a line at 17 degree`s, one at 20 degree`s, and one at 24 degree`s, and one more at 30 degree`s.
Use at the least, a letter size sheet, on it`s side. 2 foot x 3 foot, on white poster board. Set it right on thew other side of where you are about to
sharpen. Now it get`s weird. That`s just me.
Secure the blade in a comfortable position so you can hold the stone
in your finger tip`s, generally involve the finger`s of the other hand as well. And WORK the edge. YOU have absolute control of preassure, angle, and you just sculpt a bevel at a constant angle, casually.
Now, THE BIG SECRET, stropping. An art in itself. One terribly important tip, DO NOT FLIP IT OVER AT THE END OF EACH STROKE.Hold with thumb on side of handle, other hand light to moderate weight , fingertip`s, on the middle of the blade. 6 strokes, all the way off the end. 6 strokes the other way, hands reversed. White rouge on a leather belt, contact cemented toa straight, flat board, 1 inch is nice.
There you go buddy, you got it straight from the Masters fingers.

Master Shiva Ki

I have to agree with the simplest suggestion of just holding the blade straight. It's not rocket science and holding the blade straight is much easier (to me) than trying to sharpen on a benchstone and holding it at an angle...

I also learned to use light pressure especially on the white rods. Use half the pressure you were planning on using and then possibly half that. The stones do all the work, oh and watch the video.

If *I* can sharpen a knife on it, anyone can.

N2