Sharpmaker Can Sharpen This Edge?(With Pics)

Z

Zakk Wylde

Joined
Apr 11, 2011
Messages
165
Hi folks;
Today i decided to move to coarse stone on my lansky kit that i reprofiling endura4 with xcoarse stone for 1 month LoL.However no burrs still, i move to coarse and this thing started create a burr.( i think)But cant gey rid of it.Knife cant slice paper(especially at belly but not very dull.hardly cut paper(sometimes tear)I didnt get it.xcoarse(70) dont create a burr but coarse(120) creates sth burrish....
Im happy with new bevel but not so with its sharpness:D
If i buy a sharpmaker it can bring this edge to razor?Cus its not gonna need profiling thought.Also i want it to touch ups and vacation sharpening.My knives are Endura4,delica4,para2,meadowlark,recon 1,eskabar,tenacious,gi tanto and couple of saks leatherman.Sage on the way^^
Here some pics of my reprofiled endura4.I used 20 degree setting.Also i looked at edge under microscope 75x and i was like holy f**k.All toothy and lots of crap.Then looked at my other knives.They were pretty good compared to this.



More close.(



These are burrs or microbevel?



Here compared to factory edge delica4;



Ok if u forgot what i asked lemme repeat for u:D Can spyderco sharpmaker make this edge sharp?I have more pics if u need more LoL
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
You can get to hair popping with your Lansky, but you'll need to use Medium and then Fine stones. I've done it.

You can do the same with a Edgemaker, I just use the Medium to get my Spydercos to hair-popping.

The Lansky will do better at creating a bevel because of the guides.
 
But knife should be sharp before moving to next stone if im correct.And this thing is not sharp after all that work:D(i do sth wrong but havent figured it out)
So i thought using sharpmaker can do the job at a reprofiled edge.
 
As suggested, use the medium and finer hones from the Lansky to gently (very gently) file that burr away. With light, gentle care, even the coarsest hone on the Lansky can be used to remove most of the burr, before moving to the subsequent hones. It's much, much easier to clean up the burrs while the blade is still in the clamp, as opposed to trying to do it afterwards by freehand or other means. I've gotten into the habit of checking, double-checking, and even triple-checking the edge on my blades, to make absolutely sure the edge is as clean as I can make it, before taking it out of the clamp. Once that's done, it shouldn't need anything more than what a strop can clean up in just a few passes.
 
CWL said:
You can get to hair popping with your Lansky, but you'll need to use Medium and then Fine stones. I've done it.

The Lansky will do better at creating a bevel because of the guides.
Click to expand...

Agree. Zakk - it doesn't take that long to reprofile or to renew the edge on a knife with the Lansky.

Here's how I reprofile and sharpen. If I am sharpening, unless i have damaged the edge some way, I usually start with the medium, or for touch ups, the fine stone.

- Pick the bevel for the edge I want. If you are reprofiling or fixing a damaged edge, take the coarse stone and work away on one side until I roll over the burr onto the other edge. I then flip the knife over, then work on that edge until I roll a burr on the side I just finished. Now you have your bevel angle cut with the coarse stone. You can start on the cutting edge.

- Change to the next finer grit, then work off the burr until you roll it onto the other side. Using the same stone, flip the knife over and work off the burr until as before, you roll it over to the other side.

- Do this through the "fine" stone, flipping over the knife to cut the burr off the edge.

- When you have used all of your stones to the finest grit, you will arrive at one last burr to work off. Be careful with this one, and only push the stone across the edge lightly to grind off the burr. No back and forth motion, just a light sweep towards the holder to cut that little bit of burr off. Use very light pressure, like you are polishing. When you polish off the final burr after using your fine stone on both sides of the blade, you are finished.

You can get a knife really, really sharp if you use this system correctly. A couple of notes; when reprofiling with the ceramic or aluminum oxide stones (as opposed to diamond) use plenty of honey oil to keep the swarf (metal shavings) free from the cutting edge of your stones. And to finish, I bought the yellow stone, the "ultra fine", and on my harder steel knives it will polish the edge to a mirror finish. It gives a really beautiful edge.

Second, when you are sharpening, it is OK to work through the more coarse grits quickly. It is very important to make sure though, that when you roll that burr over that you have the burr on the entire edge before you flip the knife over or change stone grit.

A little practice makes perfect.

Robert
 
Thanks guys for the replys. If u all agree that these are burrs im gonna keep sharpening and should move to coarse.(i was on xcoarse.)But after xcoarse,knife is should be sharp or im wrong?
 
Yes, it should be pretty darn sharp after the first hone. It won't be perfect, obviously. But if it won't cut/slice paper at least, along the full length of the edge, don't move to the next hone until it does.

You asked, earlier, if the edge in one of your pics was showing burrs or microbevels. Can't tell for sure from the pic, but it could be either. Also might be leftover bevel from the factory edge (new edge not fully apexed, in other words). Another thing to look out for, make sure not to lean too hard into the hones. From my own mistakes, I've found that to create secondary/multiple bevels, because it'll flex the rods or cause the blade to move/rotate in the clamp. Keep pressure very light, to minimize any chance of that. Good luck!
 
I maked another sharpie test and some marker at belly still at very edge.Probably havent apexed it yet.(for the god sake i started 1 month ago :D)Yeah i dont put too much pressure after my first thred about this.
But if coarse stone made a microbevel after xcoarse stone on edge ,to reach the apex i should grind all the way down again?Or put a microbevel on it?
I looked some pics of burr on web and mines are very small.Looks like a banged up edge.
 
Zakk Wylde said:
I maked another sharpie test and some marker at belly still at very edge.Probably havent apexed it yet.(for the god sake i started 1 month ago :D)Yeah i dont put too much pressure after my first thred about this.
But if coarse stone made a microbevel after xcoarse stone on edge ,to reach the apex i should grind all the way down again?Or put a microbevel on it?
I looked some pics of burr on web and mines are very small.Looks like a banged up edge.
Click to expand...

I'd use the XC hone to grind it down and make it pure again. I know that's a lot of work, but if done correctly, it'll pay off big. That first, pure bevel, created at the beginning, is the foundation for everything that follows. If it's not good, you won't be happy with the finished edge.

Regarding size comparisons of burrs, you'll see 'em all over the map. From big, honkin' slivers of steel that you can break off with your fingers and look at by the naked eye, to very tiny 'micro burrs' that most people wouldn't notice at all, much less care about (us 'obsessive' types being the exception :D).
 
Yeah I'm not gonna notice them probably:D I should reach the apex for putting a microbevel on it or I can put it now?
 
Zakk Wylde said:
Yeah I'm not gonna notice them probably:D I should reach the apex for putting a microbevel on it or I can put it now?
Click to expand...

I would still recommend apexing the primary bevel first. As I said earlier, the better the foundation, the better the finished edge will be. When you think about it, if the primary bevel isn't fully apexed, it's already pretty blunt. If you put an additional (micro)bevel on that blunt edge, it'll be extremely blunt. The edge angle gets progressively wider with each additional bevel. So you want to make sure you start with the cleanest, purest primary bevel you can make.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top