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sharpmaker/freehand

B

book

Joined
Oct 2, 2003
Messages
37
ok rec sharpmaker 204 today already tried dmt mini sharpeners, norton stones, made stropp with red rouge, gave up sent couple kives bm lifesharp to sharpen
today watched film (sal) good film looked easy enough went ahead tried sharpmaker with 2 knives bm 720 154cm, spyderco native s30v same results as with stones ok sharp but not as sharp original edge
new at this I am aware sharpening is a
skill but I hate not being able get the hang of this or is there only so sharp you can get with what I have tried any suggestions or better yet how do you sharpen your knives with sharpmaker or freehand
 
i just got my sharpmaker in yesterday and it put a sick sharp edge on my CRKT's and my spyderco delica as well as all my parents kitchen knives. To get it just a little bit further try stropping on the back of a piece of cardboard. I those who posted in an earlier thread were right about the tri-angle sharpmaker being the best bang for the buck but i dont own nor have i ever used an edge pro.
 
Read the sharpening FAQ agaian, take your time don't rush it, and end with very lite strokes.
 
thanks for info looking for all the info I can get
? what angle I think sal mentioned 40 for most knives
does anybody use different angles depending on blade type or co. bm,spyderco etc also reading some prev threads looks like some only use corner white ceramic rod
 
i got a SM monday, really works good for the final or semi final honing, put a great edge on my MT SOCOM elite/crawford perfigo (which i just got back from pat,for sharpening/etc and the SM improved the Edge considerably)mini maxx talonite, and my starmate. razor edge on all of them. i think a norton stone/DMT would be better for the initial sharpening if the edge is real dull, but the SM works well to finish it up imho, i am happy - the only step i would think ya would need after the SM is a few strokes on a spydie UF ceramic,

greg
 
book, I have experience with the Sharpmaker and the Profile and the Ceramic Whetstone (all by Spyderco) but I find your post just too hard to read to bother making sense out of. I don't mean to sound harsh, because I don't know if you face difficulties like being a non-native English speaker, or if you have a physical handicap or something that makes typing laborious, but could you please try to use grammar and punctuation?

Thanks,
Jeffrey
 
I'm a lomg-time lurker, first-time poster, and a general newcomer to the hobby.

=)

Being a beginner, I thought that reading quite a bit of both these excellent Forums here, KnifeForums, and me more native CPF (flashlight enthusiast) regarding various commercial sharpening systems was a good idea (this was even after nearly committing Joe Talmadge's various awesome FAQ's to-memory) -- I decided to make my first foray into maintaining my own edges with the Spyderco Sharpmaker.

Following the printed instructions of the Sharpmaker closely and after having viewed the video, I was honestly able to bring *_ALL_* of my blades to "hair-popping, scary sharp" levels, including my fully SpyderEdge serrated VG10 Viele, which is my EDC. Among these were also numerous "flea-market knives" that I accumulated over the years before becoming more discriminating in my tastes. =)

The blade that I had the most trouble with was my Strider BT (S30V), which came with an edge that was sharp, but only when viewed in the sense that it is more of a "tool." To get it sharpened to even just my preference for a heavy-use utility blade -- which is *_NOT_* hair-shaving sharp -- I had to use the "optional back-bevel" step.

In the case of my BT and several of the "junk blades" (these latter due to long periods of ill maintenance), I had to sharpen much more than the recommended 40 strokes.

Also, be sure that your rod surfaces are clean -- metal build-up can greatly hinder the sharpening process.

Additionally, if you're looking to re-profile, the Sharpmaker is *_NOT_* the right tool for the job.

Finally, don't give up -- if a total newbie like me can do it -- achieve better-than-factory sharpmess on all my blades, I have no doubt that you, or anyone, can do it, too!

=)

Allen
aka DumboRAT

PS: peacefuljeffrey, LOL, I *am* typing with one hand because I just broke my arm last week -- I'm a touch-typist who is used to flying on the keyboard, this is kiling me! =)
 
The sharpmaker instructions to alternate sides left right left right is correct for lite touch ups and maintaining the edge. The first time you sharpen a knife on the sharpmaker I recommend you stroke one side until you raise a burr, then the other side until you raise a burr. This may take many strokes. Then start alternating sides for the finishing touches. Without first raising a burr, you may not be working the true edge.
 
Hawaiian has a good point, you have to make sure you raise the burr with the angle on the course stone first, then you can alternate. That is the only way to know for sure you are not just removing stock. Also, try to put a black marker on the edge to see where you are grinding.

The biggest factor I have found is patience though. It took me at least 3 or 4 hours of practice before I could get it "Scarrey Sharp".
 
I've sharpened freehand since I was 5... 14yrs later I'm able to shave off an 800grit stone, and the 500 is getting there.

I have the 204, and the 303mf(which stays in my car).

My c10sbk (98 model, ats-55) shaves hair, stropped the sucker afterwards. I watched the vid a *few* times, like it lived in the VCR for a month or so, and my 204 directions are well worn.

edit: as Bruz has pointed out, take your time. Touchups take me 20min, getting the edge to begin with may take a few hours. I had one that I did in 2hr shots over 2 weeks. Edge still shaves 6yrs later, and that was an 800grit stone at 40degrees inclusive.
 
I've also gotten excellent results on my serrated edges...the SM does it all.
Oh, and peacefuljeffrey, lighten up man, live up to your name. Everyone does the best they can, we all got what he was saying.
 
Thanks for the additional tips, guys!


Once my arm heals a bit more, I'll be sitting down with my BT again!

=)

Allen
aka DumboRAT
 
jeffery lets make it real simple for you! you do not have to respond to any of my threads. you do not know me & your remarks were really stupid; just gives me an idea what type person you are. only a coward would take popshots at somebody over the internet!!!! to everybody else thank you for positive feedback
 
The current angle on your knife may be different than what is on the sharpmaker and the stones might be too fine to reprofile the edge. Try putting a felt tip line on the edge and see what you are grinding off. I had a little trouble when I first started with a Sharpmaker but once I got the hang of it, I swear by it.
 
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