Sharpmaker - inaccurate angle on one side!

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Jul 4, 2013
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A while ago I noticed that every time I would sharpen a knife on my sharpmaker, my knives would have had different edge profile on each side. It always looked like one side is steeper than the other. I thought maybe when I applied pressure to a particular side, it would cause my knife to tilt slightly. So I would concentrate super hard on maintaining the knife as straight as possible, but I would get the same result. Now I've only ever used the 40 degree inclusive side. So I checked the angle with a cube and it turns out one rod is at the correct 20 degree angle and the other is at 21.5 degrees!! I was pretty surprised. So ever since then I've been using tape wrapped around the bottom of the rod to bring the angle back to 20 degrees.

Works fine now but I was wondering if anybody else had this issue?
 
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I will drop what I am doing and go check mine!


As one could imagine, the accuracy of a plastic part sold for $50 is nothing to get excited over.

On two rods in all four holes, the reading were off by a substantial amount

Setting the base on a level table. the SharpMaker base reading was 0 on the 40 degree side but .040 on the 30 degree side.

I had no accurate measurements from any rods. Every rod measured differently in each hole.

I started to record the error numbers, but they were so consistently bad I gave up.

I give the ceramic rods a two thumbs up, but the base is an EPIC FAIL

epic-fail1.jpg
 
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I've noticed a little play or 'slop' in the mounts for the SM's rods. It doesn't surprise me much, in hearing there may be some error in it. Odd as it sounds, a deviation of 1.5° between the two doesn't sound as bad as it could be. I think some other brands of crock-stick type sharpeners likely have more error; and with some, it's almost possible to see it 'off-angle' to one side or the other. Seems to be a common problem with sets featuring drilled wooden bases for the rods.


David
 
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I had this same problem - so I started using the angle cube to set each side at a specific angle. It didn't cure the problem...

After scratching my head, I realized that my desk wasn't fully level and was introducing a variation of a couple of degrees. After I corrected for this by zeroing the angle cube on my desk, everything is back in line.

TedP
 
I will drop what I am doing and go check mine!


As one could imagine, the accuracy of a plastic part sold for $50 is nothing to get excited over.

On two rods in all four holes, the reading were off by a substantial amount

Setting the base on a level table. the SharpMaker base reading was 0 on the 40 degree side but .040 on the 30 degree side.

I had no accurate measurements from any rods. Every rod measured differently in each hole.

I started to record the error numbers, but they were so consistently bad I gave up.

I give the ceramic rods a two thumbs up, but the base is an EPIC FAIL

[imttp://www.manhattanprep.com/gre_images/epic-fail1.jpg[/img]
I think calling it an epic fail is a little over the top. Sure it's not perfect but [literally] millions of people who couldn't otherwise sharpen a brand new razor blade (and don't want to spend hundreds of $$ and/or invest the time to learn a more complicated method) use the SM every day to produce extremely sharp edges.

Is the SM perfect? Absolutely not, but it's the best solution for many many folks that otherwise would have a drawer full of dull knives.

Also, the whole company was founded around the one product... Epic fail? I think not.
 
I think the sharp maker is a very versatile tool. Very lightweight, compact, easy to carry, great for touch ups. With the diamonds, you can fix small imperfections. With the UF rods get nice fine sharp edge in a jiffy.
 
For someone with an Angle Cube, interested in perfection, the base is a fail, for someone with kitchen knives and wants sharp knives, and is not anal about the math, it is a good $50 sharpener.

On a system where they want you to stay plumb through a few hundred strokes (mathematically impossible), having a base off a few nudges, one way or the other, makes no real difference anyway.
 
Oh I definitely love mine. I was just wondering if anyone else was having the same issue. I've since come up with a solution with the tape like I mentioned and everything works great now. My sharpmaker gets a lot of use. It's perfect for touch ups and even putting an edge back on a slightly dulled blade. It's terrible for re profiling or restoring a really damaged or neglected edge, but that's why I have an edge pro apex. I have an old lansky pro system that I sometimes use too. But the sharpmaker definitely gets the most usage.
 
This is a great illustration that some of our obsession with exact angles just doesn't matter one bit. People get *hair whittling* edges from the SharpMaker despite the inaccuracies being discussed here. I've gotten some rather impressive edges from mine.

...and think about this. If having symmetrical bevel angles was required for "good performance" how could single bevel knives work well? What about Japanese knives with asymmetrical bevels (which they do on purpose)? The answer is simple: Shallower angles make thinner bevels which cut better. 20 degrees versus 21.5 degrees isn't much of a difference. If you have different angles on each side, it pretty much doesn't matter. What does matter? Consistent holding of bevel angles for clean, straight, bevels that meet in a nearly perfect apex.

Brian.
 
Just checked mine and im happy the angle is even, just from this x mas. If you have a good eye and steady hands the sharpmaker is amazing for the price. I can get a better edge than most guys with pricey systems with or without guides.
That said I check the table with a level and sharpen from there.
 
OP, add a piece or two of duct tape to the steeper end underneath. This will even them up.
 
OP, add a piece or two of duct tape to the steeper end underneath. This will even them up.

Pretty much exactly what I've done but using electrical tape. I wrapped a small piece at the bottom of the stone where it goes into the base. It got my angle back to 20 degrees. Been using it this way for about 6 months now and it works great!
 
This is a great illustration that some of our obsession with exact angles just doesn't matter one bit. People get *hair whittling* edges from the SharpMaker despite the inaccuracies being discussed here. I've gotten some rather impressive edges from mine.

...and think about this. If having symmetrical bevel angles was required for "good performance" how could single bevel knives work well? What about Japanese knives with asymmetrical bevels (which they do on purpose)? The answer is simple: Shallower angles make thinner bevels which cut better. 20 degrees versus 21.5 degrees isn't much of a difference. If you have different angles on each side, it pretty much doesn't matter. What does matter? Consistent holding of bevel angles for clean, straight, bevels that meet in a nearly perfect apex.

Brian.

I love my sharpmaker. I'm not bashing it one bit. I think it's a wonderful little system that can help you maintain a razor sharp edge quite easily. I use it more than any one of my other sharpeners especially for touch ups. However there was a point in time where it was giving my blades a noticeably different angle on each side. It's true that 1.5 degrees isn't much of a difference but it was enough for me to visually notice it. I've since come up with a simple 10 second solution and I no longer have that problem. I'm very happy with it.

I think it's subjective about how much the edge symmetry "matters". Does it matter functionally? Probably not. I totally agree with you there. I wouldn't say I'm obsessed, but a symmetrical edge is actually somewhat important to me. It doesn't have to perfect right down to the micrometer, but I want it to at least look the same at first glance. And if I can fix the issue with a simple piece of tape, then why not? It's not even really about the performance to me. Because like you've said, it really doesn't make much a difference. But a few of my knives are more than just cutting tools, they actually have value to me. They bring me a certain satisfaction and I simply really enjoy having them. I also paid good money for them and I want them to be in the best condition possible if I can control it. Also I sell a couple knives here and there especially if I'm planning on getting a new one. If I'm selling a user, I feel better selling a blade with an even symmetrical edge, but that's just me. I cannot be sure but I think given the choice, most buyers would prefer it as well.

I guess in the end, everyone is different and some people are more particular about the way they maintain their blades.
 
A while ago my SM was looking a little out of plumb. I was hoping it was just my perspective throwing a bit of optical illusion into what my brain was seeing. I don’t have a cube so I squared up and measured. I may have had 1/16” variation. Whatever that translates into...I don't know. I was happy with that.
I clamp my SM down to my desk which allows me to use two hands keeping the strokes in more control.
Thumbs up for the Sharpmaker.
 
I wouldn't say I'm obsessed, but a symmetrical edge is actually somewhat important to me. It doesn't have to perfect right down to the micrometer, but I want it to at least look the same at first glance. And if I can fix the issue with a simple piece of tape, then why not? It's not even really about the performance to me. Because like you've said, it really doesn't make much a difference. But a few of my knives are more than just cutting tools, they actually have value to me. They bring me a certain satisfaction and I simply really enjoy having them. I also paid good money for them and I want them to be in the best condition possible if I can control it.

I actually totally understand your point of view. I respect your desire to do things in a certain way, especially for esthetics. Especially for knives you enjoy and cherish. :)

My comments were designed to illustrate the practicalities of the edge and to point out that some people are obsessing about things they can't see and can't measure. *Some* people. Keep doing what you do if it makes you happy, no matter who you are.

Brian.
 
Interesting thread. I've been thinking about this, and considering all the fine Japanese knives with a bevel on only one side, do the angles have to be perfect? As long as you create two angles that meet at a sharp point you've met your sharpening goal. IMHO the Sharpmaker is an incredible device that makes knives very sharp. As you are probably aware, sharpening devices that are micrometer and protractor perfect tend to cost big bucks.
 
Find something that'll give you better symmetry for the same price or less. If you can freehand well, you might get more symmetry with wet/dry at a couple $ expense.
 
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