Sharpmaker killed the edge on my Kulgera

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Dec 21, 2006
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I dont know how i did it but i killed the edge on my 930 kulgera with my sharpmaker. I progressed from the medium to fine stones to try to bring the bevel down to 30 degrees, but it ended up destroying the edge The heel and the tip are very sharp but the straight area in between is horribly toothy and wont cut paper. It was fine before the sharpening but now it is absolutely crap. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem, or ideas on how it happened? Thanks in advance.
 
Sounds like the Sharpmaker wasn't being held stable while you sharpened.

Sounds like you're a candidate for the magic marker method, where you "paint" the edge with magic marker so you can easily see where you're removing steel from the blade.
 
Sorry i do not currently have the means to put pics up that wil show the problem.
The sharpmaker has worked on everyother knife i have used it on regardless of the brand. Rifon2 I think that might be the problem possible coupled with me going too fast, i have just used the magic marker technique and i seem to be grinding away at the edge the way i am supposed to. I have been working on it for the past hour and the problem seems to be going away but it is a slow process. I'll post an update of my progress tomorrow.
 
Yes, the marker trick works wonders to see where actually you are removing metal.
It is quite difficult to reprofile a blade on the medium Sharpmaker rods. Hundreds of strokes - and cleaning in between. You might try the diamond rods or the Byrd Duckfoot (held at 30 degree) to reprofile and then work it with medium and fine.
Good luck. You will get it. Just more work than you thought.
 
It is quite difficult to reprofile a blade on the medium Sharpmaker rods. Hundreds of strokes - and cleaning in between. You might try the diamond rods or the Byrd Duckfoot (held at 30 degree) to reprofile and then work it with medium and fine.
Good luck. You will get it. Just more work than you thought.

I agree with Barty, the Sharpmaker rods are not the best tool for reprofiling. Especially the type of "super-steel" you're dealing with on the Kulgera.
Diamond rods are surely the way to go for that kind of work.

If you've got the cash & the inclination, I strongly suggest you pick up a diamond sharpener of some kind. I happen to like DMT.

Your sharpening will go much more smoothly, easily and quickly than with ceramic. And you can keep the Sharpmaker for touching up your blades.
 
Sounds like you didn't take your sharpening far enough ... you need to continue until you develop the burr that tells you that you brought both edges together at the edge. Takes work and time but you'll get there eventually.

NJ
 
Part of the problem with some knives is that the original edge may be sharp, but the original bevels weren't even. Yours may have been Sharpmaker-compatible at the tip and heel, and more obtuse in between.

In any case, it's a reprofile job. If you prefer the Sharpmaker to a benchstone or diamond stone, and don't want to spend the money on the diamond rods, get wet-dry sandpaper from an auto supply store and wrap the Sharpmaker rods with that.
 
Did you read his posts?

The heel and the tip are very sharp but the straight area in between is horribly toothy and wont cut paper.

The sharpmaker has worked on everyother knife i have used it on regardless of the brand.

If he got part of the edge right, he knows what he's doing. If his technique worked on his other knives, he knows what he's doing.
 
How expensive are the diamond rods?
When I bought mine a couple years back I think they were about $60 per pair, which is kind of steep, obviously. As an alternative, you can wrap sandpaper around the rods to speed a re-profiling job.
 
I always reprofile on a silicon carbide stone freehand. I only use the sharpmaker to put the final edge on. The sharpmaker was never meant to regrind blades.
 
Alright thanks, anyway a couple hours and hundreds of strokes later the blade is very close to where i want it.

Edited to add
2 hours after this post i got it!!! :)
 
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Congrats on getting it. You should be able to sharpen it with no problem now. I had the same problem with a Etched Cricket I just bought. It wasn't as sharp as I liked it to be and it took me a good 2 hours to reprofile it with the SM but I also had the Diamond rods as well :foot:.

I would suggest that you purchase the UF rods if you don't have them yet.
 
Like my dad said " There is no substitute for experience" and now you are getting some. We all are learning every day. Good luck with the edge.
 
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