Sharpmaker or stones?

I would say sharpmaker, however I have not used mine for about 10 years as I have moved on to sanding sponges/sandpaper and stropping with various compounds. It did help using different products to learn what not to do. So, I would say try the sharpmaker first then move on later as you build skill and confidence. Good luck and there are plenty of different threads here to learn from.

SEMPER-FI TIL I DIE
 
Without a doubt.. Sharpmaker

Might wanna get some paper wheels.. best 90.00 you can spend if your time is important. I use my wheels, Sharpmaker, sand paper+ strop for my convex edges, stones..

I learned the basic concept of sharpening on wheels.. I enjoy doing it by hand more than the wheels..
 
If you're just looking to maintain edges that are already in decent shape, the Sharpmaker is an easy way to do that. It's very handy for quick touch-ups.

If you have some seriously dull knives that need full restoration of the edge bevel, then some coarser stones would be better for that. The ceramic rods of the Sharpmaker are not coarse enough to remove a lot of metal quickly. You can also buy the optional diamond rods for it (they're not so cheap), which can help with that. OR, you can use coarser wet/dry sandpaper (much less expensive) wrapped around the Sharpmaker's rods. The Sharpmaker + sandpaper combination can do a lot of good work in tandem.
 
If I have a really full knife that I am trying to sharpen would it be best to get the diamond rods for the sharpmaker? Will these also help when trying to sharpen S30V, S35VN and ELMAX?
 
If you want a long and painful process of learning how to sharpen, go for the stones. If you want to sharpen your knives plain and simple, with hardly any learning curve, go for the Sharpmaker. The Sharpmaker also works fine with my S30V knives. If you really want to completely reprofile a knife with a tough steel, I'd recommend the diamond stones for the Sharpmaker. However, I've never needed them.
 
I love the sharpmaker for two reasons. Well maybe more, but two main reasons.
1. Easy to use, anyone can sharpen knives with it.
2. It hardly removes any metal, and only takes a few seconds a week to keep a knife screaming sharp.

For complete reprofile jobs I bought a cheap dmt diamond stone set, but I bought that with the guides. I have only used it once or twice.
 
I'll put in a plug for the stones. They do have a longer learning curve than the Sharpmaker or other guided systems, but once learned you can use anything out there to good effect (do a search of "Murray Carter cinder block"). If you learn a particular system, you'll be tied to it.
 
What some fail to realize is that the so-called Sharpmaker is not a true sharpener at all. It is a device designed for maintaining a good edge on knives that are already sharp.

Whether you choose to invest the many years necessary to learn freehand sharpening, or decide on an Edge-Pro, WEPS, etc, you will have far more versatility than a Sharpmaker is capable of.:thumbup:
 
Good 'ol waterstones.
I've tried it all and the only things that gives a true razors edge is the human touch with some stones.
I don't think there's a learning curve at all. Most people sike themselves out with stones thinking that there's some ancient secret to doing it by hand but in fact it reflects directly what you intend on acheiving in terms of sharpness to toughness. It's really beats all the others "systems"'out there IMO and the sharpKiller really is a waste of cash. Don't concern yOurself with over precise degrees and angles, just produce what you want.
 
Whether you use stones, sandpaper, Wicked Edge, Edge Pro, etc, you will nonetheless still want to have a Sharpmaker around. It's a very quick and easy way to sharpen up an edge.
 
Acerazor said:
Good 'ol waterstones.
I've tried it all and the only things that gives a true razors edge is the human touch with some stones.
I don't think there's a learning curve at all. Most people sike themselves out with stones thinking that there's some ancient secret to doing it by hand but in fact it reflects directly what you intend on acheiving in terms of sharpness to toughness. It's really beats all the others "systems"'out there IMO and the sharpKiller really is a waste of cash. Don't concern yOurself with over precise degrees and angles, just produce what you want.
Click to expand...

I must respectfully disagree with you, sir. I used stones for several years and was never able to achieve a satisfactory edge.

Currently, all of my knives ae sharpened on an Edge-Pro "Professional" or a WEPS. They are all either as sharp, or nearly so, as my razors that I shave with.

Even highly abrasion resistant steels like S90Vand M390 can be easily brought to this level in a rather short time with these devices.

Obviously, both of these sharpeners have a learning curve. You don't get razor edges "out of the box." However, the learning curve is short, compared to free hand sharpening.

I should also point out that either of these devices, with accessories, will cost far less than a decent set of Shapton or Naniwa waterstones.
 
Ben Dover said:
I must respectfully disagree with you, sir. I used stones for several years and was never able to achieve a satisfactory edge.

Currently, all of my knives ae sharpened on an Edge-Pro "Professional" or a WEPS. They are all either as sharp, or nearly so, as my razors that I shave with.

Even highly abrasion resistant steels like S90Vand M390 can be easily brought to this level in a rather short time with these devices.

Obviously, both of these sharpeners have a learning curve. You don't get razor edges "out of the box." However, the learning curve is short, compared to free hand sharpening.

I should also point out that either of these devices, with accessories, will cost far less than a decent set of Shapton or Naniwa waterstones.
Click to expand...

Personally I have to agree with Acerazor - its not difficult to whip up an arm hair shaving edge as long as you have some idea what you're doing, and with some practice one can whip up face -shaving edges fairly easily as well. I'm sure if the Edge-Pro or other guided systems failed to include instructions there'd be a much longer learning curve. At the higher end of the scale, the finish work is what decides the quality of your edge, and I fail to see how any of the guided systems have an advantage over free-hand at that stage. I should also point out that straight razor users do not use a system, even the professional hone-meisters.

And what happens when you find yourself needing to improvise. "Wait here, I'll be right back with my machine" (gets in car and drives off...). or "If I had my contraption I could put a great edge on that" (puts hands in pockets and rocks back on heels).

The biggest problem with learning free-hand is failing to understand what you're trying to accomplish and identifying where your technique needs work. A little understanding and you'll have a skill that will serve you till your eyes and hands fail you.
 
The biggest problem with learning free-hand is failing to understand what you're trying to accomplish and identifying where your technique needs work. A little understanding and you'll have a skill that will serve you till your eyes and hands fail you.
Click to expand...

That's well said. :thumbup:

That was my issue for a very long time. Didn't really have a clear idea what a truly sharp edge was, much less how to attain it. And when I first started being seriously interested in knives (20+ years ago), I didn't have BF for expert guidance, either (if only).

Having said that, my guided system (Lansky) is what made everything 'click' in my understanding of the fundamentals, like proper use of angle and pressure, understanding why abrasives work the way they do, and why different steels respond so differently to those abrasives. So, from my perspective, a guided system can definitely be the 'right tool, right now', IF it provides the stepping stone to understanding what it's all about. Everybody learns the art in a different way, and that's just fine.
 
Last edited:
Ben Dover:

I agree 100% with you. I don't believe many people will ever free hand sharpen an edge even close to the Edge Pro or WEPS.. I have seen results by people who were proud of their results free-hand. I can easily beat all of them with the Edge Pro or WEPS. Acerazor might be able to, but few will.

Good sharpening,
Dave
 
Last edited:
When Michaelangelo was asked how he was able to sculpt "Peter" he answered that you simply take a block of marble and chisel away every thing that doesn't look like Peter.:p

In his case, that was quite obviously true. OTOH, most of us could never possibly hope to duplicate his work.:( However, a machine could easily be built that would duplicate it.

I have great respect and admiration for the innate talent and skill of those who can properly sharpen a knife free hand. (By "properly" I mean even from side to side and toe to heel, and razor sharp)

Unfortunately, from my experience over the years, this is less than one percent of free hand sharpeners. I certainly intend no offense whatsoever to those free handers who are able to attain an edge which is personally satisfactory for their own use. Nevertheless to claim that their edge is the equal of that which can be attained by a guided device is, IMHO, a bit disingenious. There are very few Michaelangelos in this world, in any pursuit.
 
One in a hundred?

Its really not that difficult, up until a generation or two ago virtually every adult male was expected to be able to do just that and shave with it daily, not to mention regular knives, axes, crosscut saws. That anyone would equate a sharp edge to a work of Michaelangelo's is ridiculous. Even microtome edges were frequently touched up by hand until quite recently. Problem with most folks that can't free-hand is they never had any hands-on instruction and a bench stone can't talk. Imagine if your Edge Pro showed up unassembled and with no instructions. This isn't rocket science. Having not owned any guided systems to compare, my edges at least are better than any knife I've purchased from any manufacturer. I'm not going to claim they're better than what any other individual can produce, but my free-hand edges are mighty good and I find it hard to believe I'm that exceptional.
 
sharpmaker, but there is something to take note of. if a factory grind is exactly and about perfectly 30 degrees with a 40 degree inclusive secondary bevel...it's easy to maintain the edge following the directions and video with the sharpmaker. problem is....

i haven't seen many knives with a perfect grind on them from the factory. so you will hit the shoulder and not the edge using the sharpmaker and this is what frustrates so many using it.

what i do is the marker trick on the bevels, so i can see when i hold the knife properly and use the sharpmaker, where the ceramic is hitting the knife edge. typically it hits the shoulder on almost all factory edges regardless of brand. obviously my experience isn't scientific by any means, and maybe i am just very unlucky?

then i adjust the angle of the knife to the ceramic to hit the edge, and verify this by looking at the marker to see when it rubs away from the very edge. that is until i have the time and motivation to redo the bevel with my belt sander or with dmt diamond "stones".

i prefer diamond "stones" like the dmt ones. for re-profiling a badly done knife edge...i just prop the dmt stone against the sharpmaker ceramic in the 30 degree side and can remove metal fast, and maintain the right angle easier, for me, anyways then free handing on a stone.

the one beauty, imho, of the sharpmaker is the angle setup for hitting 30 and 40 degrees. so i took that advantage of the sharpmaker and translated it over to using dmt "stones". now it's much easier for me.

all that said, learning how to use a stone is probably smart. in the meantime while in the learning curve, something like the way i do it might help you to actually get a sharp edge on your knives. as usual ymmv....and excuse my terminology i've never been great with words...hopefully you can follow what i am trying to say?


edit part:some wrap the cermaic rods on their sharpmaker with wet/dry sandpaper, to help re-profile edges faster. i haven't tried it myself, but it likely would be much easier than my method of using the diamond stones up against the rods.
 
Last edited:
If your free hand edges are satisfactory to you, then you obviously have the skill set needed to sharpen to your satisfaction. I suppose my only comment would then be, "more power to you!" :thumbup:
 
Ben Dover said:
If your free hand edges are satisfactory to you, then you obviously have the skill set needed to sharpen to your satisfaction. I suppose my only comment would then be, "more power to you!" :thumbup:
Click to expand...

I have to respond "Glad you're happy with the edges you're getting however you get there - a dull tool is no fun. I'm sure the Edge Pro or Wicked Edge or Sharpmaker, or paper wheels don't do it by themselves."

Not trying to be a richard cranium or anything, but it bugs me a bit to hear folks saying not to bother with freehand because it's too hard, too slow, takes too long to learn, and (above all) you can't turn out fantastic edges or bevels that look as good as they cut. True enough you'll destroy a knife or two learning, but if you don't loose it you won't need more than one Sharpie and you'll have the stone you started on for as long as you care to use it. Once figured out you'll be able to sharpen everything out there from a grass sickle to a pair of scissors to an axe (and even a crosscut hand saw). Barring any physical limitations, its a skill well within the reach of the general populace.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top