Sharpmaker Problem

Joined
Nov 28, 2010
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596
Hi guys, I am having a problem with my Sharpmaker. Specifically, there are two knives I can't seem to get sharp, yet haven't had any problems with them in the past. They are my fixed blade Falcon, from CRKT, and my Arclite from Camillus (chisel grind). I used to get them sharp, but just can't do it at the moment. I have the medium, fine and ultrafine rods. I have tried to set both primary and secondary bevels. They just won't cut paper or shave hair off my arm. The ultrafine rods might have some kind of gunk on them, as at one part they seem to sound different, so I shall clean them up soon, but most of them seem fine.

I have recently touched up my Paramilitary 2 and Izula II, without problems. Both of them are shaving sharp, but are brand new. Could there be some sort of issue with the subsurface steel, that came to light after a few years of sharpening? Any other ideas? I strop on a plain leather belt, regularly.
 
I found the ceramic stones that Spyderco supplies for the SM were "lumpy", ie had irregular surfaces on both flats and peaks which can be felt as the edge passes across them.
Could be yours are the same? I worked my fine and ultra-fine SM stones over with a diamond plate to remove the offending lumps and that improved the results I get with the system.
 
It is an angle thing.
My whites have small bumps on one corner of one rod. I ignore that corner until I smooth it out,
Clean all your rods in soap and water. Work the corners of the dark ceramics first with a sharpie and see where your angle is on the 40 setting.
Both of those knives your are sharpening may require a re-profile or a steeper angle if your choose not to.
 
Agree with BellaBlades above. Most likely an angle issue (current edge angles too thick/wide for the SM), possibly complicated by loaded-up or dirty rods. The apex on these edges might also be rounded off, if technique has been inconsistent. All of these things will create insurmountable obstacles, until all the possible problem areas are properly addressed.

Make sure the rods are as clean as can be. Some Bar Keepers Friend powder, mixed to a paste consistency with water, and scrubbed into the rods with a Scotch-Brite pad will do the best job.

After cleaning the rods, mark the bevels with a Sharpie. Use ONLY the medium (brown) rods, until the Sharpie ink has been fully removed all the way to the apex. Use a good magnifier & bright light to check for this; it's too easy to overlook some of the ink by the naked eye. Don't even touch the Fine/UF rods, until the edges can easily cut paper, using the full length of the cutting edge (slow drawing stroke from heel to tip). The medium rods alone are capable of making shaving edges; so, if the edge isn't sharp coming off of them, there's no point in moving on to the Fine/UF, until it is sharp.


David
 
If you have further trouble with either one of them, I will be glad to at least look at and sharpen one of them for free as long as you cover shipping and I will see what is going on with it.
Id be happy to do the falcon and tell you why the edge is not sharp.
matt
 
I found the ceramic stones that Spyderco supplies for the SM were "lumpy", ie had irregular surfaces on both flats and peaks which can be felt as the edge passes across them.
Could be yours are the same? I worked my fine and ultra-fine SM stones over with a diamond plate to remove the offending lumps and that improved the results I get with the system.

My sharpmaker rods have this issue. Pretty annoying as I only have about one good side for each stone.
 
Use your rods, to smooth your rods. Just rub them together. That will quickly solve most issues. If that does not solve the problem, send them back for a replacement.

I store all my ceramic SM rods in the same 1" square plastic box, so they are always snuggling up to one another. They do a great job polishing themselves.
 
Agree with BellaBlades above. Most likely an angle issue (current edge angles too thick/wide for the SM), possibly complicated by loaded-up or dirty rods. The apex on these edges might also be rounded off, if technique has been inconsistent. All of these things will create insurmountable obstacles, until all the possible problem areas are properly addressed.

Make sure the rods are as clean as can be. Some Bar Keepers Friend powder, mixed to a paste consistency with water, and scrubbed into the rods with a Scotch-Brite pad will do the best job.

After cleaning the rods, mark the bevels with a Sharpie. Use ONLY the medium (brown) rods, until the Sharpie ink has been fully removed all the way to the apex. Use a good magnifier & bright light to check for this; it's too easy to overlook some of the ink by the naked eye. Don't even touch the Fine/UF rods, until the edges can easily cut paper, using the full length of the cutting edge (slow drawing stroke from heel to tip). The medium rods alone are capable of making shaving edges; so, if the edge isn't sharp coming off of them, there's no point in moving on to the Fine/UF, until it is sharp.


David

Great post, and great advice!
 
It is most likely an angle issue. I had a few knives that just didn't seem to get sharp at all when I still had my Sharpmaker. The marker trick revealed that I was just working the shoulder. Luckily I was able to switch to the 40° and get it done. Remember that the stones can be put into the dishwasher (if they can't clack against anything). That was how I usually cleaned mine because I am really lazy.
 
I'm happy to clean mine with some stainless steel cleaner, which I usually use. I never thought to rub the rods together to clean them up, that's a great idea. I probably wouldn't ship them overseas for a test sharpen, but thanks for the offer BellaBlades! I might take them to a guy who built me a kydex sheath for the Arclite, he did a great job with his paper wheel.
 
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