Sharpmaker question, Why are my tips dull and how do I fix it?

S

snipes1027

Joined
Dec 1, 2009
Messages
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Hey guys, using the the sharpmaker the main body of my blades are fine but right where the stock starts to narrow down to form the tip the edge is completely dull no matter how many strokes I do. Anyone know what is going and how to fix it? I do not have this problem on my sog aegis which is full flat ground and has a constant taper down to the point from the handle, which might have something to do with it. Thanks
 
Greetings Snipes1027: If the Sharpmaker rods are not reaching the edge in the area where the blade geometry "narrows down" as it nears the tip, the problem MAY be that the rods are riding on the grind shoulder and not where you want them. It may be attributable to the change in blade shape, thickness and bevel angle. Subtle but intentional changes in the edge bevel grind angle are applied at the factory to create a cosmetically uniform edge bevel. The grinds may also be of different angles and widths when compared side to side. If you wish to address your problem using only the Sharpmaker, you may wish to read post #18 of this thread. It references sharpening a Sebenza but may also work for you. It explains the problem, some factors that cause it and suggest one method of addressing the condition. OldDude1

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=740050
 
Interesting reading OldDude1. I'm glad you found a technique that works for you. I fund that snipes' issue is more pronouced for me on deeply bellied knives like the Spyderco Chinook series and kitchen butcher type knives.

My wife walked in while I was reading your referenced post #18 and said something to the effect of "holy long post Batman". :)
 
When sharpening bellies i draw the knife back as if i was slicing, following the shape of the blade.
 
Greetings ChapmanPreferred: I encountered the same situation on two knives with deep bellies. Sharpening the belly of an Old Hickory butcher knife, with a relatively thin flat blade grind, responded well to the "handle raising" technique on the Sharpmaker. An Anza skinner, made from an old file, with a thicker blade did not. That is what prompted me to try the "raising, tilting, moving" technique. In 1999, Joe Talmadge offered the "handle raising" and lowering technique in this post regarding making the recurved blade of a Benchmade 710 perform.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90315&highlight=recurve

My wife walked in while I was writting post #18 and of the other thread and said " What are you doing writing a novel ?

.... I hate it when she is right. OldDude1
 
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