Sharpmaker question

R

rafterp

Joined
Dec 24, 2010
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47
New to the forum. I had the chance to use a friend's Sharpmaker this week and had a question. Prior to using the SM I had been using fine grit wet/dry sandpaper (up to 1500) and stropping on copy paper with white jeweler's rouge from Tandy Leather. I liked using the SM, but am curious to how much pressure one uses on the stroke. Should you try and "slice" off the rod, let the weight of the blade be the amount of pressure, just barely touch?
I did 100 strokes on the edge, then the face of each stone (the ones that come with it, not the Ultra fine) and followed up on an strop that's been recommended on here (not sure if we can post the names of vendors) with green compound. I counted strokes, it was already fairly sharp, so I didn't feel for a burr (does one raise a burr with an SM?).
All in all, I was pleased with the edges I got (hair shaving, not popping; would cut newsprint but not push-cut). It's sharp, but not any better than what I've done with sandpaper and a mousepad. Do the UF rods make a big difference? The results I got were good, but not great, and this was my first time. I wonder how much results would improve with practice/better technique. So to sum up; how much pressure does one apply on the stroke? And, what tips to get to hair poppin' sharp? BTW I was sharpening a Moore Maker Trapper in 1095 (Camilus)
 
Always keep pressure as light as possible when using the SM. Ceramics will raise big burrs and/or roll or chip an edge pretty easily, and more so if pressure is very heavy at all. For regulating pressure, I usually imagine I'm just brushing dust from the ceramic rods with the edge of the blade; that's all the pressure that's needed. Basically, just enough to maintain fluid control and flush contact on the rod, without allowing the edge to bounce or skip on the rod during each stroke. If you feel the edge trying to 'dig into' the rod, either pressure is too heavy or the angle is rolling the edge into the rod a little too much. This will almost always raise a big burr quickly, and may even roll or chip the edge.

It's also a good idea to ALWAYS check for a burr; don't rely on counting strokes. Looking for a burr is the most reliable way to make sure the edge has been fully apexed, and therefore made as crisp and sharp as possible. Check frequently for the burr, after every two or three passes as you work. To clean up the burrs, some stropping afterwards with green compound on a very firm strop of leather, fabric (linen, denim) paper, wood or paper/fabric-over-wood (or glass) will work well for 1095 steel. If burrs are very large or tenacious, the white compound may do a quicker job of cleaning it up. A firmer strop will help ensure there's not too much rounding of the crisp apex, as might happen with softer strops that tend to curl or roll around the apex.

As for sharpness, even the medium rods of the SM are capable of producing hair-popping or tree-topping edges (if technique is good), which should also be capable of push-cutting newsprint and other thin paper (some of this depends on edge angle). I've grown to like the extra 'bite' left from the brown/grey medium rods of the SM and similar V-crock sharpeners, and I almost never use the Fine/UF rods anymore, before going to the finishing touches on a strop.

I don't like to imagine 'slicing' the hone, because for me, it tended to make me roll the apex into the hone (constantly feeling for that 'slicing' effect), and that tends to keep widening the apex angle and leaves a pretty blunt apex, in my experience anyway. To me, it's better to focus on keeping the angle as consistent as possible and concentrate on keeping pressure light. Results are always better that way, for me.


David
 
Thanks for the feedback. I think I'm going to buy one of my own and work on technique.
 
I may add that I use the SM on a "slippery" surface and don't hold the base in place. That way, it is very easy to move the base sideways while using the rods, therefore preventing too much pressure!
 
awestib said:
I may add that I use the SM on a "slippery" surface and don't hold the base in place. That way, it is very easy to move the base sideways while using the rods, therefore preventing too much pressure!
Click to expand...

Along those same lines, I'd recently read a comment from someone here, mentioning that they'd set the SM base on some round rods or some other cylindrical 'rollers' (in effect), in order to force a gentle touch; else the SM's base would go rolling or skating to one side or another. I thought this to be an interesting idea, and pretty clever. :thumbup:


David
 
Always let the stones do the work for you, to many folks new to sharpening for some reason feel like you have to push hard on the stones to sharpen a blade and raise a burr. If your not removing the material you want you need to go to a coarser heir stone.

If you think you're not putting enough pressure on the blade, odds are you're probably pushing to hard already. JMHO
 
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