I have a BM 806D2 and I just received my new sharpmaker. I've used it down to the level 3, (white stone corner), and it's pretty sharp. It will shave with a bit of difficulty. Should I go against what the manual says, and go to level 4 (razer sharp)? I figure the 806D2 has steel that might be able to hold this edge fairly well. BTW, I've been using the sharpmaker at 40 degrees. If anyone else has used a sharpmaker on their 806 I'd appreciated any advice.
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sharpmaker question
- Thread starter jhokie
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I usually don't bother with the flats, except at the tip where the corners might screw things up. But whenever I'm feel like some major sharpness, I use the white flats and then strop.
It wouldn't hurt to try out the flat side to see how well you like it. Test the cutting efficiency on stuff that you cut often, see if it's effective when you use the flats. If you don't, it's easy to just run a few passes on the white corners or even the grey stones to roughen the edge.
Oh one more thing. You can probably use the 30 degree setting on the Sharpmaker with the AFCK. It gives you a little more sharpness, and the D2 can handle it quite well. It'll take a while for you to remove the shoulder enough though, knowing that you've already used the 40 degree setting.
It wouldn't hurt to try out the flat side to see how well you like it. Test the cutting efficiency on stuff that you cut often, see if it's effective when you use the flats. If you don't, it's easy to just run a few passes on the white corners or even the grey stones to roughen the edge.
Oh one more thing. You can probably use the 30 degree setting on the Sharpmaker with the AFCK. It gives you a little more sharpness, and the D2 can handle it quite well. It'll take a while for you to remove the shoulder enough though, knowing that you've already used the 40 degree setting.
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I usually go to level 4 at 15 degrees then I go back and lighly finish the edge at 20 degrees using level 2. This makes sure that the edge is thin and well polished for low drag, but leaves a little texture to the edge for more efficient slicing. That edge will shave to some degree, but cuts more efficiently than a smooth razor edge. The little bit of work at 20 degrees helps to remove burrs and makes the edge a little stronger.
Cliff Stamp
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Using the corners can be problematic as a finishing step because the pressure is so high it can readily roll an edge. Just barely shaving in general is many times more blunt than cleanly shaving, and why use a knife that is blunter than it needs to be.
Along with lowering the angle down to 15 degrees, I would also suggest that you try finishing with just the flats of the medium rods. Depending on what you are doing with the knife you may find this a more productive finish which cuts better and lasts much longer.
-Cliff
Along with lowering the angle down to 15 degrees, I would also suggest that you try finishing with just the flats of the medium rods. Depending on what you are doing with the knife you may find this a more productive finish which cuts better and lasts much longer.
-Cliff
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Good advises, however I would like to add my 0.02 PLN 
Dont allow your tip to slide out of the rods at the end of each stroke, especially working on the corners! This would round your blade tip badly after few sharpening sessions.
And be prepared to have hours of hard work if you would like to reprofile your edge to 30 degrees with Sharpmaker. Optional diamond rods would be an addition what could make this operation much easier and faster.
Dont allow your tip to slide out of the rods at the end of each stroke, especially working on the corners! This would round your blade tip badly after few sharpening sessions.
And be prepared to have hours of hard work if you would like to reprofile your edge to 30 degrees with Sharpmaker. Optional diamond rods would be an addition what could make this operation much easier and faster.