Sharpmaker Question

D

Doc Onion

Joined
Sep 17, 2006
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I have a few ZDP-189 blades that need re-profiling. I was looking at getting a Sharpmaker since I have heard nothing but good things about it and it's pretty much idiot proof. So I was wondering if I would be able to reprofile zdp-189 without having to use the diamond stones, I have all the time in the world to get the job done I just need to know if I would eventually re-profile the blades if I kept at it. Thanks

Doc
 
There are two phrases that should NEVER be used together:
Sharpmaker
Reprofiling

Reprofile with something more aggressive than the S/M (even if it's equipped with diamond rods) and Touch-up with the S/M.
 
I am a newbie with the Sharpmaker, but I thought that the diamond rods for the Sharpmaker was for reprofiling then you have the progressively finer stones to get you where you want?
 
I am a newbie with the Sharpmaker, but I thought that the diamond rods for the Sharpmaker was for reprofiling then you have the progressively finer stones to get you where you want?
Click to expand...

The diamond rods will cut faster than the medium rods. BUT, it's all relative. You could literally spend more than an hour with the medium rods and accomplish minimal reprofiling. With the diamond rods, that time might be cut in half, but it's still a LONG TIME either way.

The bottom line is that unless you have lots of time on your hands, like hours, you should not do any serious reprofiling without something more aggressive.
 
TedGamble said:
The diamond rods will cut faster than the medium rods. BUT, it's all relative. You could literally spend more than an hour with the medium rods and accomplish minimal reprofiling. With the diamond rods, that time might be cut in half, but it's still a LONG TIME either way.

The bottom line is that unless you have lots of time on your hands, like hours, you should not do any serious reprofiling without something more aggressive.
Click to expand...
If you use the diamond rods in the Sharpmaker as a benchstone (as in leaving them flat in the sharpmaker), I can't imagine why it would take so long using 400 grit diamond. I'm not saying it's the best way, but if you like your sharpmaker, learning to reprofile the "real way" is a necessary skill if need to do so.
 
It's a lot of work, but it can be done, and if you have the patience it does an absolutely wonderful job.

I've reprofiled a couple of knives on mine, with just the gray rods. But bear in mind that you're looking at an hour or more of work.

And I wouldn't even attempt it with D-2 or S30V steel.
 
Ok look, I have literally ages to get the job done. I spend many an idle hour on a boat with nothing to do really other than watch movies over and over again, play cards, ect... it gets kind of boring after awhile. I just need to know that if I keep slaving away at it my blades will eventually get reprofiled.
If not then i'd appreciate it if someone can recommend a realtively affordable system that would be able to get the job done. Thanks
 
Doc,

Yes, you will eventually get it done with the diamonds.

But, please consider the simple solution of getting something like a coarse DMT DiaSharp benchstone (very cheap at knivesplus.com) to do the heavy lifting of reprofiling, then use the S/M for your daily/weekly/monthly sharpening. An 8x3 DMT will cost you $40, a 6x2 will cost you $20, whereas the diamond S/M rods will run you about $60 for the pair.

The S/M will do a great job in keeping your edges in tip-top shape once you can match the 30 or 40 degrees of the S/M. The issue is that if your edges are at a larger angle than the 40 (I prefer to always sharpen at 30) degrees, the S/M takes forever to get that shoulder steel out of the way so that you are truly hitting the edge correctly. That is why you need something else to reduce the back edge.

Once your edge matches either the 30 or 40 S/M angle, you're good to go forever more, and touchups become trivial (like 2 or 3 minutes tops).
 
Alright, I think I might actually go with an edgepro since it offer adjustable angles and it would probably be good for my kitchen knives as well, but I'll still probably get a sharp maker for touch ups.
Thanks, I really appreciate the input, it caused me to realize that I'd rather be idle than doing tedious labor. For some reason I thought the sharpmaker might have been a little faster than it actually is.

Again thanks for everything,

Doc
 
I have had great success reprofiling with the sharpmaker, the trick is to get adhesive backed sandpaper and cut it into strips. Stick these to the flats of the triangles, swap them out as they get used up, and bring the grit up accordingly. Works very well and fast, and gives a great edge by the time you step to the fine stone
 
Can I ask what grit of sandpaper you use? I have a sharpmaker, but one knife I own is BG42 . .and is just a hopeless endeavor.
 
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