Sharpmaker Question

N

Nick15

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Sep 9, 2010
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I bought a Spyderco Sharpmaker about a month ago and so far its been working great on most of my knives. The problem is some of my knives have an uneven bevel from the factory and I can't fix it with the regular stones that come with it. If I buy the diamond rods for it will they fix the bevels and remove the factory grind lines?
 
you can reprofile most knives with the diamond stones. it might take a little bit longer but they are good. just remember to use the weight of the knife to contact the stone. don't bear down or you will scrape the diamonds off. take your time and go slow and you should be able to do what you want to do with them.

You can also just wrap sandpaper around the sharpmaker stones and reprofile the knife like that. It will be cheaper and you have more of a selection of grits to choose from.
 
Sometimes the blade isn't just unevenly sharpened but the complete thing is thicker top to bottom on one side than the other side. You can work until doomsday with a Sharpmaker or an aligned kit and you'll have a wider/taller grind on one side than the other.

I dumped my Sharpie after a year of not being able to get a knife anything but duller with one (included ever set of rods - diamond to ultra-fines).

I got into DMT stones (dia-folds) and just as simply as the You-Tube factory video, I was getting shaving sharp edges from day one, with a 1/2 dozen swipes on each side.

I've never regretted dumping the SM for DMT. The only knife I got shaving sharp on the SM was a BM Nagara with softer steel. You get into S30V, D2, really good carbon steels like ESEE and such - better have time for an additional hobby - getting a sore shoulder and self hypnotized from 1000's of strokes on the SMaker. :)
 
cziv said:
Sometimes the blade isn't just unevenly sharpened but the complete thing is thicker top to bottom on one side than the other side. You can work until doomsday with a Sharpmaker or an aligned kit and you'll have a wider/taller grind on one side than the other.

I dumped my Sharpie after a year of not being able to get a knife anything but duller with one (included ever set of rods - diamond to ultra-fines).

I got into DMT stones (dia-folds) and just as simply as the You-Tube factory video, I was getting shaving sharp edges from day one, with a 1/2 dozen swipes on each side.

I've never regretted dumping the SM for DMT. The only knife I got shaving sharp on the SM was a BM Nagara with softer steel. You get into S30V, D2, really good carbon steels like ESEE and such - better have time for an additional hobby - getting a sore shoulder and self hypnotized from 1000's of strokes on the SMaker. :)
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are you sure some of those knives just didn't have obtuse bevels and you were only hitting the shoulders?? got my s30v native back to shaving sharp after a year of use and no sharpening, using just the brown and white rods. Took a little bit of time, but it worked. But I have some knives with just too large of an angle and the sharpmaker won't touch the edge.
 
goodeyesniper said:
are you sure some of those knives just didn't have obtuse bevels and you were only hitting the shoulders?? got my s30v native back to shaving sharp after a year of use and no sharpening, using just the brown and white rods. Took a little bit of time, but it worked. But I have some knives with just too large of an angle and the sharpmaker won't touch the edge.
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I agree. Those knives had to have had shoulders that were preventing the stones from hitting the edge.

Even my s90v para2 wasn't that hard to sharpen on the sharpmaker.
 
goodeyesniper said:
are you sure some of those knives just didn't have obtuse bevels and you were only hitting the shoulders?? got my s30v native back to shaving sharp after a year of use and no sharpening, using just the brown and white rods. Took a little bit of time, but it worked. But I have some knives with just too large of an angle and the sharpmaker won't touch the edge.
Click to expand...

Yeah now that you mention it - could be the case. It seemed to me that after much profiling, even with DMT diamond stones, I could shave hair effortlesly and still have one side with a taller/higher/wider bevel (not sure of the term) than the other. As if the blade was not exactly uniform - right side to left side, causing this to happen. :confused:
 
This keeps coming up this week, I think this is the 4th thread I've seen on the subject.

The main grind of a knife (not the bevel) on most knives is not as uniform as many think. Many times these slight imperfections can be seen by matching up grind lines of a swedge or looking at the plunge line near the ricasso. If you could take and make a straight line through the center of the knife many times the apex of the cutting edge would end up to the left or right of this line. From the center line to the surface of the blade grind many would also vary in thickness throughout the length.

When you end up with a bevel that's larger on one side than the other its because the center line from spine to edge was not kept even in the blade grind. The larger bevel is the side that's shallow of center and the smaller bevel is the side greater than center. Now uneven thickness throughout the length will show in the form of dips and rises in bevel height over the length of the blade.

Annoying but a non issue.
 
You just answered many of the questions I've had regarding some issues I've seen while using the edge pro.

One of my American lawmen literally has every one of the problems you listed. Lol


knifenut1013 said:
This keeps coming up this week, I think this is the 4th thread I've seen on the subject.

The main grind of a knife (not the bevel) on most knives is not as uniform as many think. Many times these slight imperfections can be seen by matching up grind lines of a swedge or looking at the plunge line near the ricasso. If you could take and make a straight line through the center of the knife many times the apex of the cutting edge would end up to the left or right of this line. From the center line to the surface of the blade grind many would also vary in thickness throughout the length.

When you end up with a bevel that's larger on one side than the other its because the center line from spine to edge was not kept even in the blade grind. The larger bevel is the side that's shallow of center and the smaller bevel is the side greater than center. Now uneven thickness throughout the length will show in the form of dips and rises in bevel height over the length of the blade.

Annoying but a non issue.
Click to expand...
 
Your welcome :)

I discovered it myself after buying the DMT aligner and having several knives with ugly bevels. I thought the tool just ruined my knives until I took a closer look at the knives themselves.

Custom knives can be really bad in this respect, I sharpened a custom tanto a while ago that didn't have one single matching grind and lets just say this knife was not cheap. Kinda upsetting for your finished work to look like crap on a expensive knife and know there was nothing you could do to prevent it.
 
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