Sharpmaker sandpaper reprofiling

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wonewin78

Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
57
Hey guys what's up. So I have a question to ask.

I was reprofiling my Sebenza 21 (s35vn) on the sharpmaker on the 30 degrees setting using sandpaper wrapped around the rods. They were on there pretty tight with rubber bands. Anyways, when I was done reprofiling (I knew I was done because it was formung a burr) I moved onto the stock medium stones. However, when I use the medium stones, it just won't form a burr. I'm using less pressure, and keeping my angle and head steady as much as I can, so I really don't think those are the problems... I'm honestly stumped and would appreciate any help. Thanks guys.
 
Assuming your medium rods are clean and considering you spent enough time on the medium (although it should not take that much time), I am pretty sure that despite the fact that you had the sandpaper tight on the rods, you likely have produced a slightly larger (more obtuse) angle that way, possible slightly convexed on the apex. It seems the fact that sandpaper, particularly on a very flat surface without give (or relieve gaps/cuts) "curls up", the swarf "waves up" and the paper compresses near the apex, almost no matter how little pressure you apply. HeavyHanded here on BF has some information/experience with this matter. I would suggest to continue a little while longer, likely longer than you expected until you get a burr. You would not have the same problem with the diamond rods since it is a fixed, non-pliable surface.
 
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I'd say Andy is right on. The edge is likely convexed slightly and you'll have to remove some steel to flatten it out on the rods. You could go back to the sandpaper and use a trailing pass only with very light pressure, on the SM that might involve going from tip to heel with sort of a pushing/stropping movement. Any bubble that forms will be at the shoulder and the paper will present a lot more flat. I would also recommend using an eraser or similar to clean the sandpaper as you go. If you get the paper very well adhered to the rod, you can opt for a leading pass, but only if its stuck like glue.

Keep in mind the paper always has a bit of give, the lighter you can manage the better.
 
I see... Thanks guys. Guess I'll have to grind it out a bit longer. I definitely will use trailing passes with light pressure to flatten it out. The edge does looks lightly convexed, and although I really don't want to remove a more steel guess I'll have to. Thanks again.
 
I sure dislike the medium rods. They just don't cut well IME on anything other than say 1095. Never did get them to remove all of the scratches from my diamond rods.

That said, the SM is worth the $$ with the UF ceramic rods + stropping for quick touch ups.
 
Nomo4me said:
I sure dislike the medium rods. They just don't cut well IME on anything other than say 1095. Never did get them to remove all of the scratches from my diamond rods.

That said, the SM is worth the $$ with the UF ceramic rods + stropping for quick touch ups.
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Sounds like something's very wrong there. The medium rods might be clogged with swarf, or pressure used is too heavy (& that'll also clog the rods very fast). Otherwise, the medium rods should leave a very fine toothy 'bite' on all but the most wear-resistant steels. As with all ceramics, the medium rods will work best at very light pressure.


David
 
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