Sharpmaker/Sanpaper Question

L

LukeC

Joined
Oct 28, 2005
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163
I'm still pretty new at sharpening, and haven't really done any reprofiling yet. I read somewhere about sticking sandpaper on the rods. I went to my local Lowes and found some stick-back sandpaper, and got some in 100 grit and 220 grit, which was the fiinest they had. Are these the right grits to use, and would I be able to transition smoothly straight to the brown rods after these? :confused: Thanks in advance for any help.:)
 
The grits you mention will definately work. Use light pressure at first with the 100 grit since its gonna want to grab at the edge before it wears down a bit.
Dont be surprised if you have to change the paper out pretty regularly, as sandpaper wears out quicker than stones or ceramic rods.

I dont own a Sharpmaker yet, so I cant comment on how the transition will be between the sandpaper and the ceramic rods. You can still do it, it may just take longer if its a big jump in grits. A paint/body jobber supply store should have finer grits available in sticky-backed paper if you end up needing a finer grit for the transition. 320 would be a good choice IMO


It should work out for you, I've used sandpaper with my old worn out Smiths diamond stone clamp and rod sharpener with good results.
 
Thanks Tanto Fiend, I think I'll check out a paint store and then just do it and find out how it works. Another question if anyone knows: What grit would the brown stones and white stones be?
 
If you are using glass or plate steel you can buy spray adhesive for about $4 a can and use regular sandpaper available anywhere. This system will be hard to learn but will probably be the last sharpening system you'll ever use. You'd probably do best to get a mount the same size as half a sheet of sand paper for each grit you plan on using so you dont have to reapply between grits.
 
imho its better to use emory cloth vs sandpaper, and wrap the emory cloth around the rods and secure with rubber bands, no need to glue it imho.

imho the cloth (or sandpaper) works fine and is a lot cheaper than the diamond rods.

as far as grits i use ~240 IIRC, though any would work i suppose.
 
A similar technique that I have used on really dull knives is to hold a course whetstone besides flat part of the rod, placed in the angle hole.

You have to be careful not to cut yourself. But you have a consistent angle and the course whetstone will remove steel quickly. You can lift and brace one end of the base of the Sharpmaker to make a more acute angle.
 
Sandpaper or emory cloth on glass. Get a water soluble glue meant for kids activities. I got clear stuff from Staples. Lot easier to clean off than say 3M 77. Just let it dry for an hour.

Binder clamps pinching the paper on the back side works well.
 
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