Sharpmaker Solution?

E

Elwin

Joined
Jan 4, 2002
Messages
183
Has anyone found a solution to the problem the sharpmaker has w/ rounding off the tips? I think I may have it beat, but I have to try some different knives. So far, only a CRKT KFF has been the guinea pig. I may try a BM42 next. If I can use the sharpmaker on it and keep the needle sharp point it came w/, then my technique may be reliable.
 
You have to stop drawing the blade across the hones before you get to the tip of the knife. The very tip area has to be sharpened by hand. I think the video/instruction manual deals with this.
 
Dont remember seeing anything about it on the video. I'll go review it and the manual. The manual has a lot of info, but there's nothing like seeing the inventor use his own invention if you want to learn yourself.
 
I don't think that tip is in the video or manual. There is a more detailed post on the (Spyderco?) fourm somewhere (I wish I could credit the member, but I forget). I sharpen the tip against the FLAT surface of the rod only. I use the rods in the base as usual (not freehand). Don't pull the tip all the way through and off the stone, but stop when the tip gets to the middle of the stone. The tip gets rounded when it falls off the edge of the stone. Good luck.
 
You have to stop drawing the blade back before the tip passes the triangle. I had that problem with my Spyderco Native, and since then, I have switched to DMT Fine/Extra-Fine with a Razor Edge Clamp. The 204 is a bit hyped here on this forum. You have trouble reprofiling your edge with it, it simply takes too long time. Diamond sharpeners cut more aggressive.
 
Is the Razor's Edge system useful for recurved blades and/or serrations? I have both, and am looking for a new sharpener.
I've got benchstones now, and the curves can be tough.

-- PG
 
I typically do reprfiling w/ a blue DMT on an adjustable frame I made to match the sharpmaker angles. I am planning to do some reprofiling on the sharpmaker on a bm 710 soon. I was just experimenting w/ the KFF to see what would happen. I tend to agree that the sharpmaker cuts slow, but unless I reprofile thinner on the the DMT, I have trouble when I move to the sharpmaker. I cant get the burr off the left side while moving back an forth between the 2 rods. I checked them w/ a protractor and they are even as far as I can tell. I must be making a slight angle change on that side and just dont realize it. Hopefully, I can do some reprofiling on the 204 and the DMT on the same knife and see how much faster the dmt cuts than the sharpmaker.
 
I have never tried it on recurved blades. I suppose it will work just as any other clamp on the market. I try to stay away from serrated blades due to difficulty sharpening them. The 204 is supposedly good at sharpening serrations, though.
 
Elwin, I've been having the same problem with the Sharpmaker. I always end up with a burr on the same side, even with different knives. I usually have to freehand the burr off or strop it off with a leather belt.

Chris
 
I have found a solution to reprofiling edges with my 204. Before I bought my 204, I had purchased several ceramic rod-style sharpeners over the years. One model, made by Lohmann, had a set of 1/4" diamond and grey ceramic rods. One day I was looking in my hardware store for some stuff and I came across some bronze bushings--3/8" OD to 1/4" ID. The Syderco 204 slots for its rods, holds the bushings perfectly. Thereby allowing my to fit my older diamond rods into the Sharpmaker. Another thing that I do to get better results with the 204 is to remove the guard rods and clamp the left edge of the 204 to my work bench. Then I use both of my hands to hold my knife. I think this give me better control to keep the blade perpendicular to the center line. Hope that helped.
Barry H
 
Reprofiling with the Sharpmaker is a real chore. I always use either a diamond benchstone (large fixed blades or fully flat ground blades) or Lansky (all others). I do use the Sharpmaker for touch-ups and this is where it is the most valuable. I simply keep the butt of the knife lowered so when the blade comes off the rods it does so on the bevel, not the very tip. I also use rather fast strokes and pull the blade straight off the rod, not allowing it to go to the left or right which is what rounds the point. These methods allow me to sharpen right to the tip while still maintaining a needle like point. Just takes practice.
 
Lots of great info. There is definately a learning curve w/ the 204. I've found that if you keep the blade vertical and run it down the stone w/ vertical pressure, this presses it into the stone hard enough to do the job. Basically, just follow the directions (imagine that). This sounds very much like what your doing, blademan 13. So far, I can detect no rounding of the KFF blade. I'm nearly done.
The problem w/ the burr comes when I reprofile the blades on the DMT. I change hands to do the different sides, but when I come back to the polish on the 204, I only use one hand. Unless I reprofile to a 15 deg. edge and then go to the 20 on the 204, the problem w/ the burr occurs. I tried clamping the 204 to the kitchen table and using both hands, but the wife kinda gets tired of it. Also, the 204 is quite portable. There is rarely a place to clamp it when I visit friends and family though. (They all want me to sharpen their knives too.) I guess the 204 actually does require more practice than I thought when I got it. BTW, I quit sharpening my families knives on the 204. It does too good a job. Every time I take it home, within an hour, someone has cut the end of their thumb. They also insist on using the hardest plate in the house for a cutting board, so all the work I did is gone in about an hour, just long enough for someone to get cut.
 
The new diamond triangles should be out is a few weeks. 400 mesh. will profile a butter knife in about a minute.

sal
 
Originally posted by Sal Glesser
The new diamond triangles should be out is a few weeks. 400 mesh. will profile a butter knife in about a minute.

sal
Click to expand...

That's great news, Sal! No more setting the butter out to soften up a half hour before dinner! ;)

Ron Fanning
 
Keep me posted on when and where to get those diamond rods for the sharpmaker. Seems like a good investment for reprofiling a blade when the regular rods won't do the job due to knife wear. been thinking about getting some diamond benchstones but the price has slowed me down. Will take the next step soon though and get a more agressive system for sharpening. Read Norton benchstones are good too. Stay sharp.
 
I bought an apex and am far too much a NEWBIE to master it. But the 204 has turned me into a MASTER

I would be lost without it. Thanks Sal....wolf:)
 
Well the KFF was actually suffering some rounding, but not like what I was doing to the points before. I may try a few kitchen knives first, before the BM42. I thought I had it down. Oh well, back to the DMT.
 
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