Sharpmaker spirit run?

Tony_A

Tony_A

Joined
Sep 14, 2004
Messages
630
As I understand it, spirit runs are typical done on popular model knives, but with some premium options--such as better blade steel or handle materials.

The idea seems to be to make the same basic knife only...better.

Could there ever be something like this done for the Sharpmaker system?

I don't mean made out of different materials, but I'd love a sort of "Sharpmaker Pro" spirit run that had tighter angles than the current 20 degrees (per side) edge/15 degree back-bevel. --So as to get better performance out of knives that are up to it.
 
Base is probably molded, molds are expensive, so making a new one for a sprint run might not be practical.

There's always the wood block under one end of the base trick. Not as elegant, to be sure, but it works.

Paul
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Just curious, Deacon, what would the dimensions need to be for a wood block in order to obtain sharper bevels?
 
I am thinking about this too I guess it would be cool to have a wooden one except the wood could warp.
 
Tony_A said:
As I understand it, spirit runs are typical done on popular model knives, ...
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Forgive me ... this aren't spirit runs, Spyderco call them Sprint Runs :)

What the wood block concerns: I guess the size is not so important, much more important is where you place the wood under the SM base (more to the middle or more on the border side; this has direct influence on the angle). I hope it's easy to follow my explanation.
 
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Peter1960 said:
Forgive me ... this aren't spirit runs, Spyderco call them Sprin Runs :)

What the wood block concerns: I guess the size is not so important, much more important is where you place the wood under the SM base (more to the middle or more on the border side; this has direct influence on the angle). I hope it's easy to follow my explanation.
Click to expand...

Actually they call them Sprint runs :)
 
what if they mad a piece that fit into the holes currently on the sm, that could hold the rods at thinner angles. hell even make em adjustable as to allow whatever angle the user wishes.
 
sweet_hitch-hiker said:
what if they mad a piece that fit into the holes currently on the sm, that could hold the rods at thinner angles. hell even make em adjustable as to allow whatever angle the user wishes.
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Just the bottom plastic base, using the same rods, guides, etc as the current sharpmaker?

Yes, I'd be happy with that too :)
 
You could get your own block of plastic and find someone with a drill press and angle guage and make your own with whatever degree holes you want. No warpage issues that way.
 
Tony_A said:
Just the bottom plastic base, using the same rods, guides, etc as the current sharpmaker?

Yes, I'd be happy with that too :)
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no, 2 plastic insterts, one for each hole/rod. that would hold it at a smaller angle.

like u put the insert in the current hole (where you'd normally put the rod) then put the rod into the insert.
 
TLR said:
You could get your own block of plastic and find someone with a drill press and angle guage and make your own with whatever degree holes you want. No warpage issues that way.
Click to expand...


Except drill bits are round and sharpmaker rods are triangles.
 
sweet_hitch-hiker said:
no, 2 plastic insterts, one for each hole/rod. that would hold it at a smaller angle.

like u put the insert in the current hole (where you'd normally put the rod) then put the rod into the insert.
Click to expand...
Cool idea! That would be sweet, and not require doing up a new base mold.

Aside from Spyderco production, there's probably a cottage industry in that idea somewhere.
 
I strap a AA battery to the center of the base and tilt it one way or the other. I can measure the angle and post it. Maybe try a AAA size and measure that also.

The only disadvantage is is that you can't use the cover as an extended holder.
 
dsmegst said:
I strap a AA battery to the center of the base and tilt it one way or the other. I can measure the angle and post it. Maybe try a AAA size and measure that also.

The only disadvantage is is that you can't use the cover as an extended holder.
Click to expand...


That's a great idea. If you take the base out of the carrying top, you can epoxy a round dowel to the exact center of the base. Take a round dowel larger than 0.33 inches and plane off one side to make it flat, so you can epoxy it to the bottom of the base. Make sure the dowel is 0.33 inches at the flat side. That will shave off 5 degrees from the 15-degree angle of the Sharpmaker, giving you 20 degrees inclusive (using the 30-degree slots).

If you want to use the stock angles, put the base in the carry top, as usual. If you want to use the 20-degree angle, take the base out of the top and rock it on the fulcrum that you've epoxied to the base plate.
 
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