SharpMaker Tips

Andrew Lynch · Aug 19, 2002

I've had my SharpMaker (204) for close to two years now. I've really improved my skill in its use. Believe me, I'm no expert, but here is what I have found to work for me:

First off, I don't use the flat sides of the stones. I don't know if it's just me, but I had a hard time getting the edges of the blades to be consistently flush with the flat sides of the stones on both sides of the V. I had no problem with using the corners, as I only had to worry about getting one angle right (making sure the face of the blade is vertical). The only purpose I can see that the flat sides of the stones fulfill that the corners don't is spreading out the load of the sharpening. The way I figure it, this aligns the very edge of the edge better because you're not rolling it or misaligning it (on, perhaps, a microscopic level). The corners don't spread the load, and so the final edge is not as sharp as with the flats. I solved this problem by quite simply doing the last 10-20 strokes progressively softer. The last few strokes are feathery soft.

Secondly, although I've been sharpening with this system for a long time, I concentrate on getting the blade vertical every stroke on the stones I take. I don't watch TV or think about other things; to get good results, I have to concentrate on what I'm doing.

Thirdly, even on touch-ups, I use the grey (medium) stones quite a bit. The fine stones hardly take off any metal.

Lastly, I do a LOT of strokes, probably 100 total for the average sharpening job.

(Also, I don't try to reprofile with the SharpMaker. I use a belt sander or very low grit sandpaper for that (I've started using Cliff's loose-belt idea recently). I've also used diamond stones.)

I manage to achieve hair-popping sharp edges using these methods, quite consistently.

If you've been having trouble achieving great results with the SharpMaker, you might want to give these tips a try. They work for me!

mrd74 · Aug 19, 2002

Andrew,I just tried your sharpening method and it works great as well as being easier.My Benchmade 710 has never been this sharp.
Thanks Mike

Buzzbait · Aug 19, 2002

Andrew - I'm with you. I haven't bothered with the flats for about six months now. I just couldn't get consistant results with the flats. The corners are downright simple to use.

Actually, I hardly ever use the fine hones at all, unless I'm resetting an edge. But even then, I end up going back to the coarse hones afterward to roughen things up a bit.

Roger Blake · Aug 20, 2002

The main advantage of using the flat face is that you don't risk rounding off the point. I stop the point on the flat.

I hardly use the fine stones anymore.

40 strokes is usually more than enough. Such has been my experience with the Sharpmaker.

Cliff Stamp · Aug 21, 2002

Andrew Lynch :

The only purpose I can see that the flat sides of the stones fulfill that the corners don't is spreading out the load of the sharpening. The way I figure it, this aligns the very edge of the edge better because you're not rolling it or misaligning it (on, perhaps, a microscopic level).

Yes, this is really only a problem with soft steels. For example with an Opinel you tend to just move the edge from one side to the other if you use rods. However like you said you can just go really light. The flats also load up much slower than the corners.

Thirdly, even on touch-ups, I use the grey (medium) stones quite a bit. The fine stones hardly take off any metal.

Lastly, I do a LOT of strokes, probably 100 total for the average sharpening job.

This sounds odd to me. I generally take just a few passes on rods for sharpening, 1-5 per side [I used a 600 grit DMT for some knives and a fine ceramic for others]. A knife can be *very* blunt (5% of optimal sharpness), and be restored to 100% with just a few passes. Unless you are changing the angle, which you note you are not, this seems way to high to me. I would suggest that you check the edge under magnification and see what is going on.

One thing you might try is to first use a steel for ~5 passes per side first. This will get the edge into optimal shape for honing. If you edge is rolled or dented (~50 microns), your first few passes might be cutting these dents off, leaving relatively large holes in the edges. To remove these would take a large amount of passes as you note.

Of course it depends on the type of blade. Heavy chopping blades tend to have edges with micro-chips all along the edge. Not only do you have to remove these for optimal sharpness, but you have to go a bit further to get rid of all the weakened steel. Again checking under magnification would solve this problem as you can see the chips and tell when they are removed.

-Cliff

aXed · Aug 23, 2002

wow, awesome review! i really need this little guy, i use the one available at work and i love it to pieces. i found that the flat side does mess up the edge for me and used the corners instead. i was wondering if i was damaging the edge before, but since your info, i'm happy as a toad

thanks for the review! the 204 kicks a$$

aXed

FC Yuk · Aug 23, 2002

Yeah, it is great. Also does serrations. Use it all the time at work. Thanks for the tips.

BOK · Aug 23, 2002

I dislike the unevenness of the flat sides. I thought that it might have been my blades or something else maybe...

Certain sections of the flat sides are completely untouched while others are completely covered with the steel filings.

It is execellent for touch up work though.

Andrew Lynch · Aug 24, 2002

Originally posted by Cliff Stamp
Of course it depends on the type of blade. Heavy chopping blades tend to have edges with micro-chips all along the edge. Not only do you have to remove these for optimal sharpness, but you have to go a bit further to get rid of all the weakened steel. Again checking under magnification would solve this problem as you can see the chips and tell when they are removed.

-Cliff

This may be my problem. I have been sharpening large chopping blades almost exclusively lately (namely a SwampRat Battle Rat and Camp Tramp, a BK&T Patrol Machete and CU9, a bolo, etc.). I will try steeling the edge first (for rolls) and also check for microserrations. Also, once I got into the habit of it, I wouldn't even try fewer strokes. I will now.

Geode · Aug 24, 2002

Andrew and Buzz,

I find also that getting the blade flush with the flats puts the blade at a strange angle. However, keeping the blade perfectly perpendicular to the horizon, using the flats will put more stone in contact with the blade than the corners alone. It is enough to make a difference, and as Cliff said, more surface area will load up with metal at a slower rate.

On big blades, I do not use the platform, but use the triangle rods like a croc stick and sharpen freehand, following the edge. For convex edges, this works too. At a knife show, Jerry Hossom showed me how he touches up his convex edges by running a ceramic rod along the length of the knife's edge, holding the angle constant.

Sharpmaker is my primary touch up tool and Edgepro is what I use to re-profile and true edge angles.

Oh yes, the fine rods make a nice burnisher if you don't mind taking off a little metal. The RC is harder than the blade metal, and any edge rolling or deformations may be corrected.

loosenock · Aug 24, 2002

I bought a Spyderco sharpening system back in the late '70's and still use it almost daily. Living close to Golden I went over to Spderco's outlet store "Ironstone" and had a chance to look at the very first knife they made. The "worker" model.

Here's another tip. After you get your blade as sharp as posible. take your sticks into your kitchen and clean them with a sponge and powdered cleanser. I like "Bar Keeper Friend" it doesn't have chlorine in it.

Set your sharpmaker back up and then very deliberately and slowly, sharpen your knife like before but try the lightest touch you can possibly hold. Just barely "soft kiss" that edge down the ceramic. Just one or two passes then rotate your stick and do it again.

I have been able to get blades so sharp you can split a hair, not cut it, but slice it lengthwise.

Here's a neat test for the sharpness. Take a cigarette paper. Hold the edge of the paper opposite the glue strip. Now take your knife and slice the glue strip off just behind the glue on the paper. Its a tough test but it can be done.

Loosenock

kevtan · Aug 25, 2002

generally I would say that there are 2 kinds of sharpness that you look for push cut sharp and slide cut sharp. For big blades that are rough used, I just used the grey corners at 40 deg. because the hardness is less.

For folders I use all four steps plus a strop to get shaving sharpness. I also usually back bevel to 30 deg. until nearly to the edge before getting the burr formed( I use a marker to see clearly). Then the white corner @ 40 deg until burr forms and flats max 10/side and last strop, green rouge 5x/side. U can use old leather belts on table or even stiff thick cardboard. I use both.