sharpmaker - where to start after light use

[silverbear]

I've got a couple of kershaw folders that get light utility use, and an Izula that gets light utility and field use.

When I go to resharpen the blades on my sharpmaker, where should I start? Do I start with the dark rods and work my way up to the ultra-fine? Or since the blades are still relatively sharp and I'm getting the back to where they where after last ultra-fine sharpening, should I do a fine and ultra-fine?

 

[THG]

Would start with the brown stones eiher way. The whites ones don't remove much metal, so it could end up taking a long time.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

You might just try the finer rods first. It may be that's all you need right now. If, on the other hand, it doesn't quite get the job done, then take a step back to the coarser rods and go forward from there. The point being, if your edges aren't all that dull in the first place, there's no need to remove more metal than necessary to get the job done.

As you get more familiar with your sharpener (and your edges), you'll be better able to look at your edge and know immediately how much work they need and, therefore, which grit to start at.

 

[Jason B.]

If you don't wait too long the UF rods by themselves or combined with a strop should be able to keep a blade razor sharp for months before needing a coarser stone. If they don't work after 10 or so passes per side then move to a coarser stone.

 

[silverbear]

Thanks guys. I usually have been going back to fine then UF and just wanted some confirmation since I'm relatively new to this.

 

[tomsch]

I typically start with the fine rods on the flat side. If about 10 strokes on each side does not put a shaving sharp edge back on the blade then I will move back up to the brown rods. Most of the time though it takes just a few light strokes on the white flats for my S30V blades.