Sharpness of Dozier D2 Steel???

B

bowler1

Gold Member
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Mar 26, 2000
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138
Hi,
I feel stupid asking this question so please forgive me. I have a couple of Dozier knives and I can get them sharp enough to shave hair, but have a very hard time getting them to where they can cut paper, which is my other go-to test for sharpness. Given that everyone loves these blades, how well they cut, and how they cut better with a "toothy" edge, is a paper cut test just not the appropriate test for these knives and this steel?

I have never been able to get a knife to where it would not cut paper. I don't know if there is something different about D2 or the blade geometry? Again I feel stupid asking this question because logically it makes no sense that a particular steel would have such different properties.

I also would like to ask what angle you sharpen them at. I experimented a little tonight and it appears that the Yukon Skinner I have is sharpened at a very high angle (maybe 27 degrees or so I estimate). I know that these knives are hand made so the angle may vary from knife to knife, but most knives are in the 17-20 degree range it seems.

Background:
This is a follow-up to a post I made a couple of years ago. I have had a few Dozier knives and really like them but have had trouble sharpening them. After not having good results with a Spyderco Sharpmaker nor a flat diamond stone, I now have a Wicked Edge sharpener with diamond stones. If I can't get these knives sharp with that then I don't think I ever will. I really like my Dozier knives, but if I can't get them as sharp as I can get other knives (for whatever reason) then I can't justify keeping them.

thanks
Matt
 
I have used Dozier’s on fish and game as well as all sorts of camping/bushcrafting stuff and never had an issue with sharpness. I used to use a Spyderco angled sharpener, but usually use a worksharp flat diamond followed by stropping. I am sure others will chime in, but personally I think Dozier D2 is awesome and worth keeping.
 
Thanks for the replies. Do your knives cut paper? I guess that’s really what I am trying to figure out. Is ciutting paper just not the right test I this case?
 
I have a couple of D2 knives. One is a D2 Dozier Slim Outdoorsman. I have field dressed two deer with it without resharpening and it would still shave the hair off my arm. I have never tried to cut paper with it.
 
I usually test sharpness by slicing thin phone book paper with and across the grain.

I haven't had any issues getting D2 or any other steel capable of easily slicing paper.

Assuming there isn't an issue with the heat treatment (which is doubtful considering the reputation of the maker) I would say it is a sharpening issue. Either with technique or the abrasives you are using. The most common issue I see is inadequate burr removal.

Try shaving your arm with either side of the knife facing down. If it only shaves one way it's almost certainly a burr that hasn't been dealt with
 
Blues said:
Bob's D2 is good stuff, indeed. (And so is Bob.)
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Every time I've been able to speak with him at BLADE, he always reminds me of that sort of cranky, cantankerous old Uncle who may seem irritable, but when your family went to visit, he would always slip you $20 with a wink before you left. He is a definitely one of the greats.
 
If you can shave hair but can’t cut paper, it’s not an angle issue. What is your sharpening procedure? What other knives do you sharpen and what are their results?

Cutting paper is also surprisingly technique dependent. How are you cutting the paper?

Extremely sharp edges will shave arm hair at least, cut receipt paper with no slicing motion (push cut), and fillet letters off newspaper. I suspect a tenacious burr or perhaps inadequate deburring or both.
 
Quiet said:
Every time I've been able to speak with him at BLADE, he always reminds me of that sort of cranky, cantankerous old Uncle who may seem irritable, but when your family went to visit, he would always slip you $20 with a wink before you left. He is a definitely one of the greats.
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This is exactly him. He has been teaching me to make knives over the last year, I go to his shop once a week and speak to him daily. When I read the original question about not being able to slice paper I just smiled because I know the reaction this would illicit from Bob! You don't cut paper with his knives, you cut animals, and it will always, without fail, exceed your expectations there! If you can't justify keeping the Doziers because they won't slice typing paper, I will be more than happy to take them off your hands!
 
Question about "Dozier D2" likely predisposed to user error answers(on BF). Removed "Dozier", you might not have asked this question since your knife use and sharpening experiences and 2 other D2 blades on-hand would tell you something is not right about this (questioned) blade.
bowler1 said:
..I don't know if there is something different about D2 or the blade geometry?
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It is unlikely a problem with D2 steel(itself) or geometry based on your experience and sharpening setup. Perhaps use 20-30 power loupe to inspect for burrs and or big wire-edge. Now if a clean edge is dulled after 1st cut of paper or soft pinewood, then maybe this D2 blade has ht issue - i.e. could be excess retained austenite.
 
I have consistently had problems deburring D2. I ended up having to microbevel (and ruin my convex) just to get the burr off.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
I have consistently had problems deburring D2. I ended up having to microbevel (and ruin my convex) just to get the burr off.
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Interestingly enough, years ago, on another site which Bob and I participated on, we tried to convince Bob to make a convex blade. He had never been a fan.

Finally, we prevailed and he made a test blade and sent it to some of us. After he had made it, he was actually quite impressed with its performance.

He made me a gift of the blade which I had a handle and sheath made for by other members of that forum.

DozierProto2.jpgDozierProto1.jpg
 
The Dozier I keep at hand will sail through receipt paper and heavier paper too. It is a piece I use in the kitchen for poultry processing. It cuts through bones like a chainsaw, good for heavier work.

I purchased this when it was available in 2004, a collaboration with A. G. Russel, a model that was done in the Dozier shop with all the materials, fit and finish and his heat treat except he sent it to a trusted third party to use double disks for a flat grind. Dozier as you know is king of the HHG. I prefer flat and sharpen differently than he does, convex edge with 400 tp 600 grit followed by a stropping with Beavercraft green. I used to backpack with it for years but go more ultralight now. There are other steels in my quiver that take a finer edge but this Dozier has done everything and never let me down once. It’s a keeper and never a drawer queen, works hard with nary a stumble for 21 years now.



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My Dozier K1 General Utility cuts meat,fruit, veggies, whittles wood like a miniature chainsaw; haven't tried it on paper though. I hone it on a coarse DMT (220 grit) and finish with a few very light strokes on a fine (600 grit) DMT.
 
ncbuckeye3 said:
This is exactly him. He has been teaching me to make knives over the last year, I go to his shop once a week and speak to him daily. When I read the original question about not being able to slice paper I just smiled because I know the reaction this would illicit from Bob! You don't cut paper with his knives, you cut animals, and it will always, without fail, exceed your expectations there! If you can't justify keeping the Doziers because they won't slice typing paper, I will be more than happy to take them off your hands!
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Huge agreement there!! I have two of his custom folders from years ago, and they're some of my favorites, and the first of them was one of the very first custom (as in, handmade by the guy whose name is on the blade!) I ever purchased. I love them both dearly, and would like to buy another from him at some point.
 
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