Sheath fo MS in 35 minutes

nozh2002

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I remember when I showed similar sheath here someone was wondering that it takes only 30 minutes to make.

This time late night when I decide to make one I also decide to pictures every 5 minutes of making. Here they are:

00:00 Initial set all here except piece of wood which i use as base for awl, actually corner of it - edge.

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05:00 First five minutes I spend on first stitch to make sure everythin straight and sheath is tight aroung handle etc...

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10:00 This is most important part - sheath must be tight to stop knife in this position and hold it but it need to have enough room for guard to go through. Fortunately MS has good widening on handle so it is possible to make this kind of sheath, I was not able to do same on Active duty.

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15:00 Now after I pass guard I try to make stitches straight far enough from edge so it will not cut thread. However if stitches are tight leather will not let edge to cut thread, at least unintentionaly.

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20:00 In 20 minutes I finish stitching and because it was so fast and I have thread left I decide to go back doubling stitches.

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25:00 Just following same steps...

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30:00 ...And it is done!

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32:00 So I tied the ends and cut out leather - sheath ready to decorating if you want:

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I am not certain yet what will I draw on it...

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Thanks Vassili.
 
Well that's a simple way to do it. Silly me. I've always cut the leather first. More often than not, TOO small for what I want it for. That would solve my problem.
 
Vassili,

Good stuff as usual. Are you going to mount this as a dangler? Some other arrangement for a belt loop in back?
 
Vassili,

Good stuff as usual. Are you going to mount this as a dangler? Some other arrangement for a belt loop in back?

I thought about this but then decide not to do any belt loop - I prefer have it in the pocket instead, or in the work-table not on the belt - I do most thing when I sit so belt is worse place to have it in this position. It is relatively small knife and fits my pockets.

However I think I can do some detachable belt harness similar to this:

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If I'll feel like I need it.
 
I decided to make this time simple pattern - do not want to spend too much time. So let it be abstract. Anyway it takes more time then sew...

Here unfinished fresh painted (by Copic markers - spirit based dye, which to my experience paint and stay better then special leather spirit based dye).

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I like this color and it also match knife color, plus for me more important to be able to find knife among other things on the table when I working on some project, then afraid then it looks too girlish (this kinds of phobias does not bother me for quite some time now...), so I like bright colors for this reason more the camo or black with sculls and bones and ninja signs.

Then after it dry I put Carnauba-Sylicon polish solution for smoking pipes from Tobacco store - works much better then leather polish with Carnauba (which dissolve dye for some reason).

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So it start shining and turns really beautiful! To make it complete, I decide to address Tohatchi NM call simply adding holes near stitches for cord (I have pretty cord from TAD Gear).

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It is simple to do and also most flexible solution - I can attach it to the belt, to the shoulder, hang it long free on belt under heavy coat (Northern Russia style) etc. - any way I can imagine.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Another 30 minutes glove. This is for Model T Street which identical to Red Meaner Street but with micarta.

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I did this even more "noticable" like orange-red wasp.

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Thanks, Vassili.
 
I was wondering what keeps the knife from cutting the thread. I usually include a welt to avoid that very problem
 
Apparently just being very careful when inserting and removing the blade.
 
I was wondering what keeps the knife from cutting the thread. I usually include a welt to avoid that very problem


The threads pull the leather close together so the knife doesn't make it as far as the thread.
 
Yes, it was initially my concern too, but sheath sit on knife as a glove, so around the blade there is no blade play when it is completely in. Same for most of the part on the way out. And at the very end it is too much room so it is not too much probable that edge hit thread area. Also leather is thick and thread is tighten very strong so it is like solid leather protecting about 1/8"-1/4" around thread itself. Also Busse has thick edge - this also helps.

So I use this kind of sheath for few months on my first Game Warden - ad this is my working knife. No thread being cut so far.

Thanks, Vassili.

P.S. I encourage you to try this youself - this kind of leather from belly was about $16 a roll from Tandy lather local store and it is enough leather to make over 10 sheath like this. They also have threads, needles and awls (I use round).
 
Will do, just send me one Busse, i need something to make it for.
 
This sheath are so easy to make - almost as famous idahoskunk duck-tape sheath. Here another one I made yesterday:

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And here all of this 30min-Sheath I made:

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I have only one GW without this kind of sheath - I wear that and and will need more INFI, hopefully this week BCS will have some AD...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Last on and I am out of INFI... Need more.

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This was inspired by Byzantium ornaments, in result I have this two cats. They did not appear as Byzantium, but I like it.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Very pretty work! But honestly I'd put a welt in there, its just a safer thing to do, no matter how tight you make the stitches they're going to get cut eventually. And especially on a pocket style sheath its vital to add that extra stiffness that a welt brings. The belly leather you use is rather stretchy and soft, not recommended for sheathwork although cheap its just not worth getting hurt saving a few bucks. Shoulder leather is the gold standard for sheaths and holsters, its only a couple of bucks higher and the quality is light years better.
 
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