Sheath ideas for a Bark River Gunny (pictures added)

K

KC8QVO

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Apr 7, 2011
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I am trying to form an idea for a sheath to hold a Bark River Gunny. For EDC I don't like the leather sheath too much and I am used to the molded plastic sheaths of ESEE knives in that they are secure and the knives "click" in. An Izula II is my EDC blade now and I have an ESEE-3. Both are basically the exact same sheath/design. What I don't like about them is that the belt/boot clip is at the blade end and not the handle = the knifes ride high and can be uncomfortable.

I have a SOG Seal Pup (don't flame me too much, it was my first fixed blade and is pretty much left to garden duties). It has a cordoura nylon sheath with a plastic insert where the blade goes. I like this style, if it can be modified a little (maybe a little lighter duty).

Kydex looks like a neat material to work with, but I am not sure about it. The folded kydex takes up more space because the open end needs secured somehow. It seems most people use rivets/grommets to join the sides. Is there any method that would leave a "thinner" profile? Is there any adhesive that works well with Kydex?

As for a belt loop I don't like the folded over leather method. A strap on the back, either fixed or button closure, would be ideal.

Are there any sheath examples you have or have made that I may be able to model something after?
 
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Well I lucked out - I have a friend that makes telescopes and I was talking to him this morning about the knife sheaths. Come to find out, they use Kydex in the telescopes for the same reason sheaths are made out of it - it is easy to work with and heat moldable. Hes got scraps that are plenty big for sheaths. Now he's not throwing it out and I don't have to order it!

I'll see how much I can scrounge up. I might experiment with a few designs. Lining with cordoura nylon is an appealing method but I am not sure I can pull it off. I have access to a sewing machine, but my skills on it aren't up to speed. Maybe I can get with someone that can give me some pointers and hands-on help.
 
Questions regarding forming Kydex -

Can I put the fold on the cutting edge of the blade?

Is there a type of adhesive that works very well with Kydex? (as in the material will fail before the glue joint?)

If I form the Kydex directly around the blade will that be a problem? My concern is once it cools that it will be too tight against the blade to pull it out. I want a tight/tough fit for one of the sheaths so I don't want to use much, if any, masking tape as a spacer.
 
RWT - can you elaborate? Why? What is the difference between number of wraps?

Also, I am going to make a press for my vice. I have access to some dense closed cell foam. I am going to try using it as a compression material. My goal is to have the foam spread the pressure more evenly across the kydex. Is there any other material that might work? A soft rubber would probably be ideal, but I don't know where I could get some that would be soft enough to compress and have contour to the shape of the blade. A few layers of thick neoprene might work too. Any other ideas?
 
The more times you wrap the knife with tape the more space will be created between the knife and the kydex. Wrapping the blade prevents the kydex from forming directly against the blade leaving space for the blade to slide in an out cleanly. As for the press I think the thick neoprene foam is probably your best bet. I personally warp the blade once and that gives sufficient space for it to slide in an out of the sheath smoothly.
 
Stay with the leather!

BarkRiverRamplessGunnySheath001.jpg


;)

TF
 
TF, I won't argue the leather is nice. My problem is it is too bulky. I put my knife in a pocket most of the time so I want something that is a much smaller profile. I will experiment with a few styles, but one of them is going to be a blade-only sheath (with a hole near the tip) that will take up the least space.

That also isn't the same leather sheath I have, mine is the new one from GLLW.
 
KC8QVO said:
Can I put the fold on the cutting edge of the blade?
Click to expand...

If you give it a bit of space. If you put the edge right against the fold you'll dull your edge every time you sheath it.

Is there a type of adhesive that works very well with Kydex? (as in the material will fail before the glue joint?)
Click to expand...

Check material sites that sell Kydex. They have some stuff though I haven't tried it. CPVC cement might work as well. I know it'll hold, but not about longevity. Might also look at Tom Maringer's tab system.

If I form the Kydex directly around the blade will that be a problem? My concern is once it cools that it will be too tight against the blade to pull it out. I want a tight/tough fit for one of the sheaths so I don't want to use much, if any, masking tape as a spacer.
Click to expand...

RWT's suggestion will work fine. You don't want tightness on your blade anyway. Retention should be on the guard and nothing else.
 
Thanks for the info, Kiah.

I got my Kydex this afternoon and got some foam block to use as a pressing material. The blocks are 3" thick. My plan was to use my bench vise, but the throat is only 5". So my backup plan is a 7/16" board with 125lbs of plate weights, maybe more.

I am going to experiment with the press this evening and hopefully heat up some Kydex and give it a shot. I have an old toaster oven I can use to heat the kydex (and a pair of gloves to handle it with). I am anxious to give this a shot!

The sheet of Kydex I got is 12"x20" or so, with an 8" diameter hole cut in the middle. There is enough Kydex there for about 3-4 sheaths. It is thin though, I'll have to get my calipers out and see what it is, but it sure isn't very thick.
 
Here are my first results.

I had to run the Kydex through the oven twice. The first round was more of an experiment. I didn't get it in the press quick enough and it didn't mold very well. So I stuck it back in. To my amazement, very shortly after I put the Kydex back in the oven folded it unfolded itself. The edges were all curled up (same with the first round). It was nice and pliable.

I used a toaster oven at about 330deg. It was a little past half way between 300 and 350, how accurate that is I don't know.

The blade was coated in two layers of blue 3M painters tape.

My press was a 7/16" board with 260lbs on it in the end. I found a bunch of my plate weights so I just stacked them on.

Instead of using glue to bond the clam shell I flame welded it. This took a bit of work. I went across the edge 3 times to get it to this point, and I am not sure if this is going to hold just yet or not. I was trying to get the Kydex halves to melt in to each other. This, in theory, is a good idea. However, with the propane torch I was using it charred the joint as I went. Flame polishing and rubbing didn't work as it didn't get the material hot enough to "mix", but hot enough to "mix" also was the edge catching on fire and burning. I used a small pair of vice grips to press the hot seam. Previous attempts were with blocks of wood. It was an idea though. Another welding idea I have is to use a fine-tipped soldering iron to "spot weld" along the seam.

The cutting edge is in the fold. In the circumstance of this specific sheath I think it would have been better the other way around. However, this works. I used the propane torch to "crease" the fold. When the Kydex came out of the oven and I pressed it there was a "loop" at the end and not a clean fold. So I tried to fix that a bit by heating and creasing manually.

Any functional critiques?

It is an ugly sheath but the form factor is a lot lower profile than the leather sheath. My next creation will be one of these that is belt-carry'able.

IMG_9322.jpg


IMG_9324.jpg


IMG_9325.jpg


IMG_9326.jpg
 
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KC,

I was totally kidding - I just wanted to post my sheath because I am a vain idiot. ;)

Anyway,

I forget the member who frequents here - He sells a 'Kitchen Kydex' video that I have heard nothing but good things about.


EDIT:

I found the video and the link:

http://rivercitysheaths.com/dvd.html

Mike posts here often - is always helpful - and the video might be really worth the bucks.

TF
 
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