Sheath maker and HT question

Jim Rehrer

Jim Rehrer

Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
686
I have 2 questions...
1. Im thinking about having someone else do me sheath making and i would like to know if anyone has any good recommendations....nothing too fancy at this time just quality that wont break the bank (isnt that what we all want):rolleyes:

and 2. I bought some 1095 and O1 and want to try heat treating my own blades...i made and heat treated a couple in O1 with no prob. Nice temper line passed file test and everything...when i tried the 1095 i was having a harder time...so i increased the temp (color of the blade) and it seemed to work...however when i edge quench my temperline doesnt always run up the entire length of the blade...but it will pass a file test...does thos mean that its not HT'd right? or doesnt the temper line mean that...

for heat treating im using a propane torch and motor oil...need to get some quench oil but need to find out where to get it first...i have some trans fluid if its worth trying...

thanks
Jim
 
Jim,

Here is a thought on the sheaths. I started making when I was in college at Lock Haven Univ., up there in PA. I found an Amish saddlemaker in the area who made me some really nice, no nonsense sheaths for a great price. This is about 12 years ago, but he charged me like $7-8 at the time. I dont' know exactly where Clarion, Pa is, but if there are Amish anywhere around, it might be worth looking into. The guy I went to was in Logantown, PA I think.

Good luck.

Ryan
 
Jim Rehrer said:
I have 2 questions...
1. Im thinking about having someone else do me sheath making and i would like to know if anyone has any good recommendations....nothing too fancy at this time just quality that wont break the bank (isnt that what we all want):rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I can put you in touch with a gentleman who does good work at pretty reasonable prices. Only problem is that he's in MD, so from Clarion you'd probably have to ship things back and forth. Let me know if you'd like his contact info.

As for quenching...what Del said :D

I've got in-laws in Indiana, might have to arrange to meet up and say hi sometime when I'm up that way.

-d
 
thanks for the replies/ideas guys!

now does that mean that even #50 quench oil wouldnt be fast enough or is motor oil just not fast enough?
 
For 1095 I use straight anti freeze, for a four count and then to 200 deg. ATF, anti freeze is faster than ATF, but quite a bit slower than water, have not cracked one yet that way.

Leon Pugh
 
Jim,
Shoot me a pm and tell me what YOU consider resonable for a leather sheath for say a 4" hunter or something similar
 
O1 is a wonderful blade steel as far as edge holding and relatively unforgiving in HT. The biggest single problem with 1095, for us, is time to quench. 1095 is very unforgiving when tardy to quench. A super quick time to quench is important for all our blade steels but 1095 is most unforgiving by comparison. It is very difficult for us, by hand movement, to meet 1095's requirement time to quench.

rlinger
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