Sheath problems

Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
110
Hi all. I got my BK2 about a couple weeks ago, and I noticed that the snap on the sheath to hold the handle is too short. I can snap it closed, but only with a lot of work and it usually pops right back open afterward. I put the original handles back on instead of the micarta thinking that could be the problem, but I got the same result. Anyone else have this problem? :thumbdn:
 
Mine was tight, but not that bad. I replaced my sheath right after I got it. Do you think it too short? Or perhaps a bad button snap? Moose
 
Hi all. I got my BK2 about a couple weeks ago, and I noticed that the snap on the sheath to hold the handle is too short. I can snap it closed, but only with a lot of work and it usually pops right back open afterward. I put the original handles back on instead of the micarta thinking that could be the problem, but I got the same result. Anyone else have this problem? :thumbdn:

No, Rusty, that's not the way it should be. Every manufacturer, no matter how careful they are, will have something slip through from time to time that isn't quite up to standards. Fortunately, you're dealing with KA-BAR here, so I can't imagine that they won't make it right.

Have you contacted KA-BAR's customer service and described the problem yet? They should take care of you. Alternatively, Toooj (the senior engineer and quality man at KA-BAR) is a member here and monitors this forum. He's likely to see your post and respond, telling you exactly how to handle your problem.

There aren't many forums where the man whose name is on the blade (Ethan Becker) and the senior engineer are members and will offer help: they will here.
 
Mine was tight, but not that bad. I replaced my sheath right after I got it. Do you think it too short? Or perhaps a bad button snap? Moose

Hey, Moose, since you make your own sheaths (nice, by the way) it may not be an issue for you, but you can always contact KA-BAR's customer service and see what they say.
 
Mine was tight just like yours. It still worked, but was a PITA.
The retention on that sheath is so good that you don't even need to use the handle snap.
So I bought a Tec-Loc and now use it as a belt attachment instead of the nylon one.:thumbup:
If you don't wanna buy a Tec-Lok you can always use para cord.
 
The snap on the nylon bit ripped off the first day I had my BK-2 (lame) but I was planning on removing the nylon bit anyway. Now I've run paracord through the holes in the kydex so that I can either wear it vertically (on my strong side) or horizontally (in front).

I didn't buy this for the nylon and that knife is pure studliness in steel.
 
On the subject of the sheath, I just got my BK2 and I have the sheath with the BK KaBar writing on it....Is this the gen1 or gen2 sheath???? I already notice it dulls the edge. Thanks
 
On the subject of the sheath, I just got my BK2 and I have the sheath with the BK KaBar writing on it....Is this the gen1 or gen2 sheath???? I already notice it dulls the edge. Thanks

we could guess, but a picture is worth a 10000 posts.


Bladite
 
we could guess, but a picture is worth a 10000 posts.


Bladite

DSC00923.jpg
 
I think I am going to try to get a pointy wood saw and rake it in and out until I remove a little of that plastic on the inside. I bought 2 from amazon, one for me and one for my brother, and they are both like that. I still love the knife, and I love my BK9 too, so no Becker basher here.
 
I think I am going to try to get a pointy wood saw and rake it in and out until I remove a little of that plastic on the inside. I bought 2 from amazon, one for me and one for my brother, and they are both like that. I still love the knife, and I love my BK9 too, so no Becker basher here.

that's probably gen 2

take it easy with the saw. go slow.

you could also sheath and unsheath the knife after a few hundred times to "break it in"...

could also say, rub a sharpie (carefully) on the edge, and see if that's rubbed off, and if so, use the saw a bit more.

let us know how it goes


Bladite
 
Here is what I tried. Reciprocating saw blade works good, seems to be plenty of extra plastic there. I put some marker on the edge of the knife and tried it, didn't seem to rub off the marker. I will resharpen and see for sure....

DSC00926-1.jpg

DSC00924.jpg


Plastic shavings taken out
DSC00927.jpg
 
I disassembled my "stock" kydex sheath to see what was going on, it seems that the thicknesss of the blade forces the sidewalls of the sheath to swell ever so slightly, causing the area the edge is closest to, to draw up into the edge. But there are definite cut marks on the inside of my sheath. I will post some pics this afternoon. Moose.
 
I disassembled my "stock" kydex sheath to see what was going on, it seems that the thicknesss of the blade forces the sidewalls of the sheath to swell ever so slightly, causing the area the edge is closest to, to draw up into the edge. But there are definite cut marks on the inside of my sheath. I will post some pics this afternoon. Moose.

Now, that's interesting. I can easily understand the process that you're describing, and I'll look forward to seeing your pictures. That could certainly explain why some people have had problems in that area.
 
I apologize it took so long, been busy. Please, please, understand, I am not a pro photographer, and I am trying to capture something hard to see with the naked eye, much less a Kodak camera. I am no engineer, but I understand physics, and I am very observant, so without further adue......

100_1189.jpg


What I want to point out is the rub marks (striations) located near the "bucket" opening of the sheath, they are DEEP rubs that come from the spine area of the BK2. Located under the 1st hole, top left.

100_1194.jpg


This is a pic of the area that the edge digs into when you retract the BK2. Its about 1/32nd of an inch deep now, as I did alot of resheathing while building the prototype sheath I was making
 
That is interesting, Moose. I can well understand the actions taking place here.

It would be very interesting to hear Toooj's thoughts on this, if he happens to catch this thread.
 
100_1195.jpg


This the other half of the sheath, the "male" side I call it. It show obvious sign of wear. Now, I'm not bragging, but I make my edges RAZOR sharp, throughout the entire edge, and when I would sheath and unsheath my BK2 once, it had been diminished, all the way down, except where the spine thins out, which just so happens to be where the width of the blade diminishes as well. What I can't show is also that the sheath halves are bowed outward from one another, I assume a manufacturing side effect. There is a male half with taps on one side and female slots on the other where the sheath fits together, on the male tabs is where the most damage can be seen. If you look, there is no cutting on the male tab anywhere else down the inside. I also believe that the swelling of the "bucket mouth" when you retract the blade aslo causes the same effect as the blade swell, because I noticed the edge of my BK2 was "duller" closer to the scales, caused by the massive deformation of the sheath as the scales slipped their resting place while "in battery". I would very much like someone elses opinions on this, and if you feel that my observations are in error, I completely understand. Thanks to all. Moose
 
Oh, I did some minor alterations to the "lock in" in the bucket, so that is not from rubbing, just me trying to loosen the pressure during withdrawal to see if the blade still bit as deep in the sheath. Thanks to all. Moose.
 
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