Sheath Question

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Jan 26, 2000
Messages
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I'm thinking of getting a khukuri, probably the WWII model. My only khukuri experience is with one of those cheap Atlanta Cutlery models. I often had problems drawing and re-sheathing it. Are the sheaths on the WWII khukuris easy to draw and re-sheath? I'm guessing the probably are, but I just want to check. Thanks.
 
The stock sheath that came with mine wasn't as smooth as I would have liked it and it had a catching spot when resheathing.

Check out the Sarki Shop. I really like the look of the Sarki Shop's work, especially the beefed up Sasquatch frog and the camo scabbard covers.

The sheath that came with my Khukuri was OK, but it wasn't in the same class of workmanship as the quality of the Khukuri. The leather near the bottom of the back of the sheath, just before the leather dissappears under the brass piece, was cut too short to be sewn completely together so they just tried to sew it together, stretching the thread holes to point of almost tearing.

One thing about the original style sheath is that it's slender. You don't feel like you are carrying a machete around with you.

The other option is Kydex. Check out SharpSquirrelKM's site, Sheath Mechanic
 
It's hit and miss since it's coming from Nepal to Nevada - what fit there may no longer fit here.

That said, all of my khuks fit in the sheath just fine. I've learned how to carry it now so that even a loose knife doesn't come flying out while hiking, etc.

Best bet - since you know what you want, ask Bill for one that has a good fit. He'll get you the right one for you.

Dan
 
Search for threads containing references to sheath and fit
or adjust or similar words.

There are a number of threads about adjusting a sheath
that is too tight or too loose.
It's a matter of natural materials adjusting to changing
temperature and humidity.
And if you're out in the rain, that adds another wrinkle.

But it can be adjusted.
 
One slides out like a charm...no handstands, but I don't do that much anymore. 15 in AK

One wants to be angled just right to come out. 12 in AK

One was snug, but came right out.15 in BAS

One binds a bit when the wide spot of the blade is coming out, but is not problematic. 12.5. in Pen

Also...It's wood, covered by buffalo hide. Moisture and a wedge solves a lot of small issues.

Can't go wrong.

AND, there is always Terry of the Sarki shop...failsafe.

you will be very happy.
 
Thanks, I'll check those threads and link out. It might also help with my barong sheath that recently got tight. My cousin left it in an un-airconditioned room for over a week and it was tight when I got it back. Before that I had it since early 1999 with no problems. Arizona heat can do things like that.
 
The kukri was designed to be tight in the scabbard since it has no "keeper". If you look at pictures of how the kukris were carried by Gurkha Regiments from around 1860 till today you will see that it is behind the soldier on either the right or left hip. When a battle was about to be joined the kukri was removed prior to any action and then either pressed into service or placed on the ground in front of them. The one anomoly was the 1/5th GR during the 2nd Afghan War where they had a very unique (and very rare) kukri made in that country. The scabbard does have a "keeper" and various straps that would attach to the braces that went over the soldier's shoulders holding up the waist belt. The kukri was carried under the right arm. Prior to the introduction of "frogs" and in civilian use the kukri is carried directly in front of the body and has a strap connected with 2 buttons that prevent slipping. The entire scabbard would be removed to withdraw the kukri.
 

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" Prior to the introduction of "frogs" and in civilian use the kukri is carried directly in front of the body and has a strap connected with 2 buttons that prevent slipping. The entire scabbard would be removed to withdraw the kukri."

A question(s) on the strap and buttons...

Are the buttons sewn to the scabbard?

It looks to me like the strap usually passes twice around the scabbard. Is it used in this configuration and merely provides a ridge that prevents slipping down, or is the strap passed over a sash or cummerbund and then buttoned?

Maybe either??
 
cu strap and buttons.jpg
 
If you notice on the picture above the buttons are attached to the strap, but the actual security comes from the "gut" thread that is passed thru cuts in the leather of the scabbard and that is what is wrapped around the buttons. This example is very clear of how this is done. The leather piece that holds this from under the leather is amazingly strong and in many cases all that remains after the strap is ripped and gone.
 
This is one of those times when you keep your mouth shut to keep your braying from identifying you as a jackass.

Any disagreement with JP on khukuris is beyond my competence.

I might enter a friendly dispute over which is the better tasting beer, maybe. Then again, ( hee-haw!!! ) maybe not.
 
Thanks for explanation, J.P.

As usual, they came up with something I couldn't imagine.

Unfotunately, for some reason none of your pix are showing up for me--I get the "broken" icon.

On the budhume thread one that donut reposted did work for me, but the ones you posted didn't:confused: :(
 
Firkin,
Send me an email and I'll send you the pix directly.
 
Many thanks for offer to send photo.

E-mail sent.

I think maybe very long file name or spaces in file name may be culprit. I should be able to sort it out after I download the file.
 
after posting, I followed my own advice. The 12 in AK, and the Pen knife each come out easily now.

Used a little hot water and wedge on the AK. Used WD40 and a large wedge to open the top of the Pen knife sheath. I let the fluids soak in, tapped the wedges gently in a bit. Next morning, a non-issue.

Just laziness that got in my way before.
 
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