sheathmaker
Custom Leather Sheaths
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Messages
- 4,650
A few days ago I posted a little comment in a thread concerning sheath thickness, awls and hand stitching. The purpose of this thread is to show and tell how you may not need all that thickness in your sheaths.
In the photos below, the first shows two LARGE bowies I sheathed. 9 and 10 1/2 inch blades of fairly thick stock. I took the photos prior to the final finish on the sheaths so the layers on the edge are more visible.
Second photo shows the layers, top to bottom 1 7/8, 1 2/3 (front lining), 1 7/8 welt, 1 very short wedge (tail of belt loop), 1 2/3 (back lining), 1 7/8 back of sheath. 6 layers total. This photo also shows how the sheath will mold to acommodate the unusually wide guards. The guard stand off is quite pronounced, making these two an extreme case to prove my point. Prior to the first insertion of the knife the slot opening was just about a full 1/8 inch and the blade thickness exceeded that. I had to bend the loop back for that first insertion in order to seat the knife all the way to the guard. It started to mold to shape almost immediately, then I dampened the leather a bit to help it along. The thickest point on the sheath is at the mouth and the six layers, (seven layers counting the chevron overlay for the stud) it measures 9/16 inch there and tapers quickly to 7/16 inch on to the toe on both sheaths, making for a relatively thin sheath over all.
Third and fourth photos are for reference only showing the same pose photo of the second knife and the two together showing general thickness profile.
As I stated in the previous thread, many makers tend to create more interior room than is necessary, hence a very thick and hard to hand sew sheath.
Most of my sheaths only have a 7/8 oz. single welt unless it's a pouch sheath and the knife has a very fat handle, then I'll sneak in one wedge.
Hope this is of some use to you guys.
Paul
In the photos below, the first shows two LARGE bowies I sheathed. 9 and 10 1/2 inch blades of fairly thick stock. I took the photos prior to the final finish on the sheaths so the layers on the edge are more visible.
Second photo shows the layers, top to bottom 1 7/8, 1 2/3 (front lining), 1 7/8 welt, 1 very short wedge (tail of belt loop), 1 2/3 (back lining), 1 7/8 back of sheath. 6 layers total. This photo also shows how the sheath will mold to acommodate the unusually wide guards. The guard stand off is quite pronounced, making these two an extreme case to prove my point. Prior to the first insertion of the knife the slot opening was just about a full 1/8 inch and the blade thickness exceeded that. I had to bend the loop back for that first insertion in order to seat the knife all the way to the guard. It started to mold to shape almost immediately, then I dampened the leather a bit to help it along. The thickest point on the sheath is at the mouth and the six layers, (seven layers counting the chevron overlay for the stud) it measures 9/16 inch there and tapers quickly to 7/16 inch on to the toe on both sheaths, making for a relatively thin sheath over all.
Third and fourth photos are for reference only showing the same pose photo of the second knife and the two together showing general thickness profile.
As I stated in the previous thread, many makers tend to create more interior room than is necessary, hence a very thick and hard to hand sew sheath.
Most of my sheaths only have a 7/8 oz. single welt unless it's a pouch sheath and the knife has a very fat handle, then I'll sneak in one wedge.
Hope this is of some use to you guys.
Paul
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