Sheath Treatments/Modifications

D

David vS

Joined
Nov 9, 1999
Messages
136
There are 5 nails that I can see on my sheath. 4 of them are used in affixing the loops which sheath the Karda and the Chakma. The last one tacks down the leather flap on the back side of the sheath along the stitched seam. My question is, can I remove these nails and replace them with liberal drops of super glue, without compromising the integrity of the leather. Will it cause things to unravel or come undone if I remove the nails?

Also, I immersed the sheath in warm water as I am anticipating using my Khukuri in jungle conditions. The leather flaps just inside the mouth of the scabbard came up... Should I simply super glue them back down, leave them be, or is there a better glue I should use?

The last part of my question has to do with the wood of the sheath. Should I treat the interior wood of the sheath? If so, what do you suggest? Should I leave it alone and preserve the water-wicking properties of the wood? Gah! Who knew that owning a Khukuri could be so complicated? *L*

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When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty.

 
Super Glue gel... Thanks. I'll pick some up from the hardware store. As for the Nails... Should I leave them in and just file them and treat them with super glue, or should I just remove them all together and glue the back flap down and glue the karda/chakma loops in place?

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When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty.

 
A heavy wax based coating on the sheath such as Sno-seal will help to keep moisture out of the leather as well.

Will
 
Gluing leather to wood is not hard; superglue gel works fine and so does wood glue such as Elmer's.

I suggest mineral oil for the wood instead of linseed oil. Linseed oil is a drying oil, a good wood preservative but if you get too much inside the sheath, more than the wood can absorb, it'll make an awful gummy mess when it dries. Mineral oil doesn't dry and it's good rust prevention -- it'll preserve the wood and the blade, too.

-Cougar Allen :{)
 
Cougar... Are you SURE when you say Mineral Oil? I went to several hardware stores and asked for it and they all looked at me strangely. Finally one let me know that mineral oil is a laxative. What does this do for the sheath... Make the blade just JUMP out? *L*

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When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty.

 
By the way... Is there any specific method I should use in applying the oil to the interior of the sheath? Should I just pour it in and let it soak... and if so, for how long, etc?

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When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty.

 
Getting it isn't the issue, Steve. I fugured out where to buy laxatives long ago... Hmm... That didn't come out too well *L*. The point is, I already bought some. I just wanted to know if Cougar was certain that it was this particular (ahem) product. Also, how to apply it, (pour it in the sheath and let it sit for a bit then pour it out and let it dry... How?)

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When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty.

 
This is to treat the wood... not the leather. I use NikWax for the leather.

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When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty.

 
Right, hardware stores don't sell mineral oil.
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Those of us who are paranoid about using toxic petroleum oils on knives that we might cut food with even occasionally use it to keep our blades from rusting. It's good for leather. It's good for unfinished wood -- it doesn't harden into a finish; it doesn't go rancid, either, as vegetable oils can. It's also good for dry skin.
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You can't hardly get too much of it on wood or leather ... any excess that doesn't soak in can easily be blotted up with rags or paper towels. I suggest pouring it right into the scabbard, let it soak in a while, then pour out the excess and let it drain a while upside-down. That way you can get the wood well soaked in it -- for a while you might notice your blade is oily every time you pull it out of your sheath, which is fine....

There's nothing magic about it; it's just a heavy oil that doesn't dry out, doesn't get rancid, and isn't toxic.

-Cougar Allen :{)
 
A caveat on using Sno-Seal on the Leather: it will hold water in just as effectively as it keeps it out. A drainage hole would be advised at that point, and it will require a much greater level of vigilance to make sure a wet knife isn't being drowned in the sheath due to water build-up. This applies especially to a jungle environment.

Hope this helps,

Brian.

 
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