Sheaths for unusual blade sizes?

Joined
Mar 7, 2011
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I have a coworker that asked me to make a sheath for him. 'I've never had a sheath that fit this blade right' he tells me, so I told him I would take a stab at it. Now that I have the knife in hand I'm drawing a blank. So what have you guys made that actually works or how would you go about it for such a thin blade? He wants something similar to the one with it.

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Ok, this is WAY quicker than doing a mspaint sketch.
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Basically same design...only as a full pancake. 2 seperate pieces of leather.

The welt is your friend here for the odd blade shape. You can make the sheath a standard shape, then use the welt to hug the blade shape inside the sheath. I would start the welt just under the opening of the throat...this way the first bit of the handle can also go inside and allow the guard to sit on the welt for stability.

You can also do a double stitch line on the welt if you wished. Think of how some holsters are sewn where the thread follows the trigger guard area and what not.

For the back section, you could just fold it over and sew it down just under where the retention strap is at to make sure it's hidden and secure. Or you could run it full length. This would add to the rigidity of the sheath making the primary body 4 pieces instead of just 3.

Maybe some of the master leather workers can chime in on my idea and correct me on anything I messed up. It is midnight after all :)
 
Grizz, thanks for the jump start. Time is just a number and I work when I'm allowed - this usually ends up being and less than desirable hours. I think I'll skive down the leather for the back piece and run it full length as you suggested, I like a smooth back when possible.

The blade is so thin I'd considered adding a skived 'shelf' off of the welt for the blade to sit on. In this scenario I don't see it as necessary! Thanks again for your suggestions :)
 
Thanks Ray and Paul! My training is paying off little by little :)

Ray, does that sheath you posted have a welt?
 
Grizzly, I can't say for sure but it looks like he welted at the top and skived it down to nothing towards the bottom.
 
Can't make out a huge amount of detail on this grainy monitor at work lol. But, it appears he used the inside of the doubled back as a welt.
 
There's a welt that runs all around the blade, and the fold back panel runs down tween the welt and the back panel about 2-1/2" skiving to zero.
 

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Careful using spring clips like that as they can leave marks on the leather. You can insert a popsicle stick under each pair of clips that will spread the spring tension and keep from marring up the leather.

Why are you using them BTW? Just to help hold the leather for a mock up? They're not needed for gluing if you're using a good contact cement.


Keep us posted on how it turns out!
 
I agree with Grizzly on putting something between the spring clips and leather--I use scrap leather, since it's lying around anyway.
 
Typically I have clips that I've modified because of what your talking about Grizzly, just what was handy at the time. I sand everything before sewing by putting it together like that. Gives me nice stitch lines with even gaps which was something I struggled with.

Just after oil:

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Settled a little bit before I wrapped up for the night:


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Grizz...looks like we were preaching to the choir...nice job!

Even an idiot gets a lucky day from time to time. If you'd seen the one I messed up you'd be on the floor laughing.

Thanks to all yall for getting me passed my writers block!
 
I got payback today to make me feel better Grizzly. And put the finishing touches on the sheath. All in all a successful weekend.

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