Sheaths in general

Boats

Boats

Joined
Aug 7, 2003
Messages
3,330
Every sheath works indoors or in the safe. I have found that many sheaths simply suck outdoors.

While I have an easy time deciding what blade lengths, patterns, grinds, handles, and steels I like more than others, I have a next to impossible time deciding what I want in sheaths. Over time, one tends to get a vast array of factory sheaths from leather to kydex and from barely useable to pretty serviceable.

My sheath problem in a nutshell:

My overall favorite "outdoors" sheath is a factory leather double rig that came with my IJ puukko/leuku combo. The dangler allows the sheath to sit in any attitude in relation to my leg or waist and the security of the knives has never been in question. The sheath is lined with plastic so that the knives don't harm it. Downside is that retrieving either knife is pretty much a two handed affair, which isn't always convenient, and I am sure someone could invent a nightmare scenario for it. Other downside is the dangler is a leather strip square knotted at the top. Not the most robust setup.

My favorite material for speed of deployment and toughness is kydex. I also like how a well done rig offers puukko level security without straps or snubbers, but still allows one handed retrieval. My downsides for this material are its rigidity--of the material itself and the usual "lock it down" placement options. There are several ingenious kydex rigs out there, but one is usually in a buy before you try mode, and I have yet to see a kydex sheath with a decent drop from the belt to afford some flexibility. Maybe I haven't been searching hard enough.

Derided as factory sheaths usually are, two of my favorite sheaths are factory cordura rigs with blade liners. One came with a Becker BK7 and three came with my Ontario RAT-5-7 & RTAKII. I like the versatility of the mounting options. The knife security is adequate but could be better. What I like the most is the ability to carry some essentials in the generous pouch on either sheath system.

I have found I dislike leather "Western" pouch sheaths the most. Usually these are "right on the belt" carry and intolerant of the body or the leg being at acute angles from truly vertical. Sitting down for instance is a pain, and if the sheath ever has to work against gravity, for whatever reason or for any length of time, it usually fails to retain the knife in comparison to the puukko style sheaths.

So, does anyone make a sheath with the good looks of leather, the security and deployment speed of kydex, and the capability for a mini-stuff sack storage that cordura brings to the table? Possibly in a double rig?

Just asking.:D
 
I guess if I think about it, I do prefer a well-fitted kydex sheath over others; one where the knife doesn't necessarily need a retaining strap and just snaps in. My Becker BK3 and BK2 sheaths are like that, as is my CS Master Hunter sheath. When I pop my knives in those sheaths, it's nice to know they'll stay there until I need them again, regardless of how the sheath is oriented. If I won't be using the knife for a while, I'll snap the retainer strap, take the knife off my belt, and stow it in my pack.
 
Boats,

My Ontario RAT-5 knife doesn't fit the sheath. The blade is to wide, catches in the plastic liner, and will actually pull the liner out of the sheath when I try and draw the knife. I contacted Ontario and they're going to send me a new one, but it hasn't arrived yet. Seeing that you actually like the sheath gives me hope that my new one will work better then the one that came with it. :)

Dave
 
Boats said:
So, does anyone make a sheath with the good looks of leather, the security and deployment speed of kydex, and the capability for a mini-stuff sack storage that cordura brings to the table? Possibly in a double rig?
Click to expand...

You've just described your ideal sheath and I'm sure there are custom Kydex and leather craftsmen who can make one for you...or you can learn the crafts and make one yourself :)

Blade manufacturers provide a sheath that they think complements the knife according to visual appeal and the use they see for it. Users may disagree and modify the sheath themselves or go to a custom sheath maker.

I have a new CS Master Hunter, and while the sheath it comes with is decent and substantial, I personally don't care for it. I had a second and left-over Kydex sheath from my first MH that had a hi-ride clip-on Kydex sheath (my favorite)...that MH and clip-on sheath has gone missing in action. For the second new MH, I took the left-over Kydex sheath that had a Bianchi belt fastener...removed that, took a heat gun to the tab and folded it over into a belt clip. I like it just fine because it's easy to take on and off the belt...too easy, because if I draw the MH with one hand, sometimes the sheath comes off the belt with the knife...so I still have to use two hands.

Such are the compromises we have to make. Good luck in your quest :)
 
Here's the sheath I made for the Western W49 Bowie that I did some work on recently. This is a two piece frog and scabbard arrangement.

The leather frog is thick 1-3/4" strapping from a 'farmer's bundle' that is sold at agricultural supply stores for the repair of horse tack. The two pieces of the frog are sewn together with a double pass of stitching. The front lacing is military paracord with the center strings removed so they lace flat and tight.

The scabbard is 1-1/4" UV resistant PVC electrical conduit. The pipe was heated in an oven, flattened, formed to fit the blade so it 'grabbed' it snugly on the sides, cooled, and then cut to fit. The scabbard tip was heated, formed, then clamped tight while PVC primer and glue were applied. After it dried, a drain hole was drilled in the tip and a notch was ground on each side with a Dremel tool and a rasp for the straps of the frog to fit into and securely hold the scabbard.

The scabbard was then roughly sanded, painted with primer made for painting plastic, and then alternate layers of camouflage khaki brown and clear acrylic were applied.

The horizontal strap of the frog was cut a tad short and then soaked in water with the paracord lacing. The frog was then tightly laced onto the scabbard, stretching it, and allowed to dry and become tight and snug.

W49_Sheath_1.jpg

W49_Sheath_2.jpg

W49_Sheath_3.jpg

W49_Sheath_4.jpg

W49_Sheath_5.jpg

W49_Sheath_6.jpg
 
Mrostov, that is very cool, very ingenious :thumbup: How did you heat the tip and seal it to get such a smooth finish?
 
Coldwood said:
Mrostov, that is very cool, very ingenious :thumbup: How did you heat the tip and seal it to get such a smooth finish?
Click to expand...

Cut the end to shape and then heat the edges with a stove or the coals in a charcoal grill. With pliers, leather gloves, whatever works, pinch the sides of the open end together.

After it cools they will still be popped apart somewhat. Daub the seam to be sealed with PVC primer and then glue. then compress the end with clamps, gently but up till the sides touch.

After it dries, maybe another layer of primer and glue. Then sand and file to shape. Make the drain hole with a drill.
 
Most belt sheaths can be made into danglers with the addition of a little paracord at the top.

Steve
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top