sheaths

V

vaquero57

Joined
Nov 12, 2000
Messages
131
Wondered if anytone wanted to discuss the various ways of finishing a sheath. Right now I use the hot wax dip method but don't like how the sheath is hard as plastic when cool. What about shoe polish? Looking for ways toi do it without having to order dye and waterproofing from a leather place.

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" I am a shootist."
Clay Allison
" Does this mean we are bladists?"
Vaquero57
McAlpin Bladesmithing
 
Hey Vaquero; I used shoe polish on a couple of sheaths way back when. If you use strictly that, you won't like it as it doesn't give a consistent depth of color. I can best describe it as clumpy. It would give you a nice shine though if you already had a consistent color base beneath it. Also, I found that the rubbing action you do when applying the polish softens the leather. It also wouldn't be waterproof. If you do a search on this forum, you will find numerous recipes for finishes. Some are involved, others are easy. Myself, I airbrush leather dye onto the sheath for a perfectly consistent color coat, then liberally apply sno-seal to the outside. I blow hot air over it from my wimpy heat gun so that the sno-seal soaks in. The sheath dries fairly stiff but not as hard as paraffin wax. It also doen't darken the leather like paraffin will sometimes.

Hugh

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President of Knifemakers Anonymous - "The sickness can be cured!" Call 1-800-cutfingers
 
I have used a method that I read in a book and it gave very pleasing results.

1. Take equal parts of parafin and Silicone Lonolin saddle oil and melt it in a pot.
2. Brush it on the shealth.
I put about 4 layers (thin) to build it up a bit.
3. Then I put the shealth in an oven at 170ish degrees for like...20 or 30 minutes to fuse everything together.


This worked great. The water just rolls off and it does not have a plastic feel....more like a hardened leather feel. The oil gives it a real nice smell as well
smile.gif


Michael
 
I use a mixture containing 50% Beeswax & 50% Saddle Oil (Hydrophane brand in UK)
To make the mixture heat in the microwave carefully in a glass jar. When you apply it by hand, the heat from the fingers just about melts it enough to rub in. When soaked in just polish.
 
What do you think about just using leather dye for the "right" color and then using the protectant. I can't recall what it is named, but it comes in a bottle and you brush it on. When it dries, it leaves a clear film that seems to be water resistant.....I bought mine from Tandy Leather
 
Nothing wrong with that at all
smile.gif
I actually used a dye to darken the leather to begin with. The method I described does darken it up a bit all by itself too.

Michael
 
VAQUERO,what i use is,Lexol nf,it is a more modern,non greasy form of neatsfoot oil.When using bark tanned leather for sheath lexol nf will darken it slightly to a nice golden brown,on chromium tanned leather you might want to stain to desired shade first.Upon completion i wet sheath in hot water mold to knife if nesc.,let dry overnight.When dry put in oven 200 deg.,f.,for 10-15 min.Pour lexol in cheap bread pan,=get at supermkt.,dip hot sheath in lexol 6-7 sec.,drain excess lexol back to pan,stand sheath upside down in dishdrainer or whatever a couple of hours.I finish mine w/a coat of Kiwi shoe wax,neautral usually.If you are interested,and cant find Lexol-nf,get ahold of me and i will dig out a source.

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MJH
 
Folks...the most easy part is just dip it in ballistol...the more, the darker the colour when dry, absolute waterproof, soft, flexible and souple leather. I use it on all my sheaths, as I don't like the cardboard-feel of it when I coloured it.

You can always E-mail me.

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"If the world wouldn't SUCK, we'd all fall off !"

member of the BKS
http://www.expage.com/belgianknives
 
Yeah but with ballistol will the sheaths retain their molded form if they are so supple when done? And how does this Lexol compare to wax and mink oil. My last customer sure seemed to like his sheath though so maybe wax and mink aint so bad I don't know. All you can do is experiment. Have the rest of my life to find out.

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" I am a shootist."
Clay Allison
" Does this mean we are bladists?"
Vaquero57
McAlpin Bladesmithing
 
VAQUERO,Mink oil tends to soften leather,in my opinion,not a good thing.The only way i know of to completely waterproof leather is by soaking it in boiling wax,an ancient method,the name of which i cant remember the spelling of.A source for lexol-np is Schutz bros.,in Indiana,1-800-348-0576,in Indiana,1-800-552-0592,call & get acatalog,they sell everything needed to make and finish sheaths,except bark tanned leather,that is available from Muir&Mcdonald in Oregon.PH>#503-623-2428.Bark tanned leather wont rot your knife 1/10th.,as bad as chromium tanned will if it gets wet.

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MJH
 
I make my sheaths from an orthopedic leather which can be wet molded. I soak the leather in water, wet form around the knife and let dry. After finishing the sheaths i fill them with ballistol and let it soak in for about 5 minutes. The leather gets quiet dark and gets completely water resistant. I make a lot of sheaths without straps who only hold the knives with their perfect form, like on most scandinavian knives. I never had any problems with a ballistol-treated sheath loosing it's form.

Achim
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=575309

[This message has been edited by AchimW (edited 12-05-2000).]
 
When I made sheaths I used super sheen from Tandy Leather company. Check out there web site they have lots of stuff water based and other.

http://www.tandyleather.com/


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Tony Huffman
thuffman@texinet.net
Sporting Clays & Shotguns ... my other bad habit!
 
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