Shock resistant hammer handles?

Kentucky

Kentucky

Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
2,986
Ive noticed that some hammer makers use an "epoxy" of some sort to mount the handle in the hammer head with..Billed as "shock resistant...Any comments on the stuff? Ever any problems with it coming loose?
 
I tried that a LONG time ago, and it never worked well for me. (handles would always work themselves loose). Not long afterward, Wayne Goddard turned me onto the "split handle". It's on all the hammers in my shop, and works really well. It gives a little "snap" at the end of each swing, which makes it work like a heavier hammer. It absorbs a lot of the shock that would otherwise travel up your arm, and a side benefit that I have discovered is that I no longer break handles like I used to with solid handles.

You can see the handles on my website...not trying to sell you a hammer, it's just the easiest way to show you....and anyone can split a standard large blacksmith's hammer handle with a bandsaw. http://www.caffreyknives.net/Angle%20Pien%20Hammers.html
 
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I've only seen that on plastic handles.

I've talked to blacksmiths and carpenters.
Old guys and young guys that have done it for a while, they have all recommended a hickory handle.

When it is properly fitted and wedged, I have never seen a handle come loose.
Often they also recommend dropping the whole hammer head first into a can of thinned boiled linseed oil for a day or two.

It protects the handle with the oil finish, keeps the fibres pliable and flexible to absorb shock and reduce breakage, and helps to keep the head tight.


Framers that used solid Estwing hammers mentioned that that shock would go all the way back to their shoulders until the old ones told the new ones to go Hickory..
 
The hammers Im refering too are Hofi and big blu hammers. Ive never heard anyone complain about the way they are mounted but Id never asked either..See we are blacksmiths too and generally do a lot more hammering in a typical day than a bladesmith will..
If Im gonna drop a "C" note on a hammer I want to make sure its worth it..;)
 
I've used the same method Ed talks about and when I did a bit of armstrong damascus I loved it. I introduced a farrier budy of mine to it (at times he's under 15 head a day) and now most of his hammers are the same.
Ken.
 
Kentucky, Save that C not and make your own hammer and just stay with the hickory and properly wedge it with hardwood wedges and you will be happy.

I also like to soak my hammers in boiled linseed oil at least once a year, this keeps them from drying out and causing the heads to come loose.
 
If you make your own hammer ( I highly recommend it) make sure you drift your eye into an hourglass shape. This will prevent the handle from sliding off once it is wedged.
 
The stuff Hofi/BigBlu use isn't an epoxy I don't think. It remains soft and pliable over time. I have no idea what it is, but I do know that I love my Hofi hammers! If you were to pop over to one of the blacksmith's forums frequented by Mr. Hofi and ask he would probably tell you about it.

-d
 
when I mount my handles (use only hickory from now on) I drop some oil around the eye then into the wedge hole before wedging. or drop some on after wedging.
 
Ive always wedged my handles. I worked in my uncles woodworking shop growing up and used a lot of handled tools then too..We always used a wood wedge, trim it off and then a couple of steel wedges turned "slant's ways:D".
 
Don't use any steel wedges all the do is ruin the handle. A properly wedged handle with hardwood wedges is all you need and will never come loose. But proper handle to eye fit is very important as well.
 
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