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Natlek

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I build this last autumn at my father's home . I ask no one before I start building , because simple there was no one I know to ask . I know that in US you use wood for building so I was thinking that I will get my answer and I hope that I will hear good news .Dimension are 6 x 5 meters , wood is some kind of pine with 16 x 8 centimeters . What I'm wondering is whether the roof will hold some snow in winter? Some winters it can snow a lot , this year there is none yet .The slope of the roof is small, which means that snow will remain on the roof .......... Those roof panels are also quite heavy ? The double beam is transverse with a distance of 6 meters, the single beams are at 5 meters.... For now it is open on front , no door or wall in front . In the future, that will be my new shop , provided it does not fall apart :)

What do you think ?

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You have basically a 3 x 6 inch rafter that is 16 feet long on a shallow slope. Here in the U.S. that is way over-spanned. In addition, the rafters on the low end should each be supported by a wall stud directly underneath each one. I know you don't want to read this, but, I would add the wall studs and double the rafters. Better yet, sandwich some plywood between the added rafters with glue and fasteners.
I, personally, would add some diagonal bracing as well to the walls.
Snow is heavy! It would be a shame/disaster if the roof gave way...!
 
a common roof angle is like 2degree per foot long.. so if you are 5 meters long that is 16.3 feet
so from front side (high) to low side (Back) should change by about 30 degrees or about 5 inches.
you should at least put some "Cross Members" helper boards in between what is there to help even out the load.
the width of 6 meters should have a few more boards there as well to help support the roof/top..
stronger built is much more better....
 
Like SS369 said..... I too was thinking you need diagonal supports. Besides the extra strength the roof needs
Heavy snow with wind will parallelogram/collapse your structure.
Plywood sheathing could help the walls with that too.
 
Much too weak. You need a vertical and roof stud every half meter, as well as a diagonal brace on each wall.
 
Pinoy Knife said:
a common roof angle is like 2degree per foot long.. so if you are 5 meters long that is 16.3 feet
so from front side (high) to low side (Back) should change by about 30 degrees or about 5 inches.
you should at least put some "Cross Members" helper boards in between what is there to help even out the load.
the width of 6 meters should have a few more boards there as well to help support the roof/top..
stronger built is much more better....
Click to expand...
2 degrees per foot over 16.3 feet = 32.6 degrees…approx 30 degrees. Okay, I don’t know building advice but that maths works. But 5 inches height difference? A 30 degree slope over 16 feet gives a 10 foot height difference. 2degrees over 16 feet gives about 5 inches height difference.

Even without being experienced in frame building I thought the roof and walls looked a bit flimsy. My workshop is wood, but it was built using the cladding as structural with similar wide spacing between uprights and no cross or diagonal bracing. When the rot that has started in the cladding in a few places gets bad it is going to be “interesting” to repair.

Chris
 
Building codes were put in place to assure that Harry Homeowner (and contractors), would not be killed or maim themselves and others through faulty building practices (I know Natlek is not bound by our regs, but the regs would give him a safe guideline and can be looked up online).

There is nothing right with that design. Nattie, for your safety, please look this up or get some experienced advice in your area.
Good luck with it buddy!
 
C_Claycomb said:
2 degrees per foot over 16.3 feet = 32.6 degrees…approx 30 degrees. Okay, I don’t know building advice but that maths works. But 5 inches height difference? A 30 degree slope over 16 feet gives a 10 foot height difference. 2degrees over 16 feet gives about 5 inches height difference.

Even without being experienced in frame building I thought the roof and walls looked a bit flimsy. My workshop is wood, but it was built using the cladding as structural with similar wide spacing between uprights and no cross or diagonal bracing. When the rot that has started in the cladding in a few places gets bad it is going to be “interesting” to repair.

Chris
Click to expand...
so my math was wrong in the morning (Before coffee)
you do need a shorter back of the building than the front to help with rain/snow was kind a the point
Natlek is in Macedonia (Europe) so im sure they do it differently..
 
SS369 said:
You have basically a 3 x 6 inch rafter that is 16 feet long on a shallow slope. Here in the U.S. that is way over-spanned. In addition, the rafters on the low end should each be supported by a wall stud directly underneath each one. I know you don't want to read this, but, I would add the wall studs and double the rafters. Better yet, sandwich some plywood between the added rafters with glue and fasteners.
I, personally, would add some diagonal bracing as well to the walls.
Snow is heavy! It would be a shame/disaster if the roof gave way...!
Click to expand...
Thanks my friend ! If I understand you correctly I need to do this ? It would be not hard to do that , I can do that without disassembly anything .
double the rafters .... You mean I need to add one more beam to each one on roof , right ?

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I forgot to mention, everything is fastened with long 8mm stainless wood screws , no nails there . Each steel H beam are fastened to floor / 10 inch thick reinforced concrete with foundations / with four M12 bolts on 10mm thick steel plate welded to H beam .Double beam on front is glued and also fastened /beam to beam/ with stainless bolts for wood. Wall isolation panels are 5cm. thick and are also fastened with stainless bolts .Panels on roof are 8 or 9 cm thick and are also fastened with bolts .I have spare steel beam to mount in middle of front double wooden beam if snow fall. All that add some rigidity to construction or I'm wrong ?
 
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Pinoy Knife said:
a common roof angle is like 2degree per foot long.. so if you are 5 meters long that is 16.3 feet
so from front side (high) to low side (Back) should change by about 30 degrees or about 5 inches.
you should at least put some "Cross Members" helper boards in between what is there to help even out the load.
the width of 6 meters should have a few more boards there as well to help support the roof/top..
stronger built is much more better....
Click to expand...
It looks like this winter I will have to climb on the roof to clear the snow :) If there is any snow at all. I don't remember a winter like this one , the whole of January is warm as if it were late spring.....
 
Good day Natlek. Yes, the knee braces would help as you have drawn, but better would be to go from floor plate to top plate with as long a diagonal as possible. I would do this after the wall framing studs are in place and either screw/nail them to the studs and plates or creat a diagonal groove so they sit flush with the front of the wall studs. There are special metal straps to do this, hopefully in your neck of the woods. Or use 1x4 lumber. Make sure the walls are plumb first!! https://i.pinimg.com/originals/d0/75/6f/d0756f7ad84bce2e05e57e82766f4ac5.jpg << An example of the metal shear bracing strap that only requires a saw cut... It is then fastened at each stud, Yes, anything you can do to strengthen the roof rafters will help. I would Temporarily add a leg under each rafter to lift some small camber to the rafter before adding the additional material. If you do add plywood (8 feet long strips by the same width as your rafter) start in the middle and work from there both ways till over the walls fully. I do hope this helps keep you safe when that snow load comes your way. To add: If the ceiling height will allow for it, You could just add a central beam middled across the bottom of the rafters and supported in the side walls And fastened to each rafter bottom. I could go on and on. ;-)
 
In addition to the above notes, your studs & plate are oriented incorrectly. The studs should be rotated 90 degrees to match the orientation of your rafters and your wall top plate should be laid flat horizontally and doubled. Hope that makes sense.
 
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Like was said earlier the studs of the wall should have been oriented with the narrow side against the wall panel. What you drew will probably work. I'd still probably put two diagonal braces, one from the top center of the wall down to the bottom right corner and one top center down to the bottom left corner. Attach to each stud where they cross.
The rafters are the main problem. They are undersized and will most likely sag over time with or without snow. Doubling them up will only marginally improve the load carrying capability. If you do double them up, glue them and screw them together.
 
I don't think you need those diagonal braces you have pictured. They won't do much of anything as far as support. Usually the sheathing acts as a diagonal brace. Not sure what yours is made of though. If it's foamy or flexible you might want to add a couple of metal straps to your studs as some folks have mentioned, one each from a bottom corner to the center top of each wall, like a triangle. That's kind of a funky timber frame construction you have going there, not as strong in that configuration as stick framing but I think for what you have and your climate it'll probably do. I'd double up those roof rafters though, maybe not sistered together but centered between what you have now. Also, nails are better than screws in framing. They don't shear like screws do. Good luck, looks like it'll be a nice shop!

Eric
 
If those are polyiso/steel panels there is no need for any diagonal reinforcement. But it requires proper connection. L profiles must go on all corners, in and out. Everything screwed and siliconized. Silicon on all panel connection so water doesn't creep in. 5cm panels can be self carrying for a small garage. Front seems like it needs a post in the middle just in case. Those things have simple building rules which can be found online. I like those things. I built a small temp house from 20cm panels with inner 5cm walls. It was just for a year but stood 8y and was taken down as not needed any more (and there was no building permit:))
 
you need more studs on the roof AND on the walls. i wouldnt dream of climbing on that thing. every 12 inches is advised.
 
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