shop tip- burr king

Joined
Jun 12, 1999
Messages
1,110
send all off of your burr-king grinders to me, i'm looking to buy one. anyone looking to sell one? e-mail me.
anyone one know any worth while get rich quick scams?
 
Lmao, Magnum!!! Hey, get a grinder and make 20 drop point hunters and then make the sheaths for em. Sell em for $100 a pop and there ya have it. I'll keep my eyes and ears open for a grinder for you. Take care! Michael

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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"

 
you may be able to make a vacuum cleaner out of it, but not a surface grinder. thanks, keep an eye out for a used burr-king or hardcore grinder.
 
I sure like mine. I ordered it with a 1.5 hp motor but wish I would have gotten the vari speed too. I have used it daily for 5 years and finally wore out the bearing on the output side of the motor. At least I can hear it rattling a little. When I win the lottery I will sell it to you and buy a hardcore with the works. Bruce
 
B,
I have been making blades for about six years now and only once in this time did a used Burr-King come up for grabs. The going price at that time was $750. I never got to the point where I could ask if it was variable or constant speed. I couldn't afford it at the time any way.

Ironically and sad to say, about the only time that you may find a quality used grinder on the market is when a fellow knifemaker has "moved on down the road". On a positive note, it is not that difficult to make a grinder if "resources" are not readily available for a Burr-King or Hard-Core. The primary cost involves the motor and contact wheel if hollow grinding. An idler wheel cost between 1/4 and 1/3 the price of a contact wheel. Basically all that is needed after that is pillow block bearings and a shaft which any machine shop can thread for you. If hollow grinding, who needs a third wheel? Leave the whole thing with only two wheels.

The problem arises when versatility is an issue. In other words, if you need to hollow and flat grind, then basically two different machines are needed unless you can flat grind horizontally (I can't). With the attachments available today, specifically from Wilton or Hard-Core, a fairly quick change over is not THAT difficult. Basically, this is the big difference between home built and manufactured machines, other than the price.

C Wilkins
 
i've made drawing for a grinder, like the burr king, but i'm having trouble making a traking device. so i had decided to buy one. i may redo my drawings and just make one. but that'd cost me $500 right there.
do you think a rack and pinion would work fpr tension, or is it too much straign on the teeth.

[This message has been edited by magnum .44 (edited 01-20-2000).]
 
Magnum,
You can buy the Burr King, Idler Wheel and tensioning unit from Tru-Grit! It's about $200. You could not make one better than that for the same money!! I have two of them!
Then just mount it on what would be the arm of your grinder on a long plate that can pivot. This will be your tracking device!
I HAVE to take a picture of one of my belt grinders! I have less than $500 in each of my grinders and they work MUCH better than any of the commercial ones! Mainly because everything is rubber mounted, vibration free and VERY HEAVY!!!!
Neil

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Talonite! Pictures are now up on my website!!
http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/Meeting/5520/index.html
 
does neil bother to tell you he works in a machine shop and could make jet airplanes if he wants to???? its only easy if you know how. hey..how did you get so many posts ahead of me....???????

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http://www.mayoknives.com




[This message has been edited by tom mayo (edited 01-20-2000).]
 
thanks neil for the tip on the tracking unit.
your saying i should separate everything thin rubber, say 1/8", in the places where i'm bolting parts together. i was going to use 1/2" thick steel, that should be heavy enough.
 
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