Shop Tip

blgoode

blgoode

Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
7,189
Well, Working on a pair of bolsters (not the skinner mark ;) ) and I wanted to angle the fronts this time. Well, my pins were in the way of the grinding table and they really werent tight enough to stop movement. What did I do........

Super glue them in place. Keep them cool when grinding and just poped them apart after. Worked nice.

Was I just lucky this time or do you guys think the glue will let loose in the long run? Now I am ready to pin them in place on the knife and I know they will line up.

Any hints in keeping them lined up when I peen the rivets?
 
I do that trick all the time. A quick blap between the two with a single-edged razor blade, struck by a small hammer and they'll pop right apart. Good tip, Brian!
 
Mark,
My problem was that my drill bits were either too small for 1/8" pins or too sloppy to keep them tight. What size drill bit and pins to you use?
 
I just keep an assortment of pin material on hand of various sizes, and a bucket full of bits. I use a wood block to drill holes in and test fit the pin material. Sometimes I'll use a micrometer.:)
 
the pins fit great in wood but when I drill them in steel there sloppy. I may need to take my bits and calipers to the pin store ;)
 
maybe the loose fit is from a wobly drill press, or an unstable support. some times the stupid tables on the drill presses don't work for beans, as soo as you start drilling they just tilt on you
 
I dont think thats it. I think I may need to find some different pin material.I'll take my bolsters with me ;)
 
blgoode said:
I dont think thats it. I think I may need to find some different pin material.I'll take my bolsters with me ;)
Click to expand...
tips :)

pins vary in size a lot. so I drill small then size the pins.
you can bur them up to fit better if to small, kind of like knurling round stock.
Super glue .a dab will do yah.. I do that all the time,,
even on MOP then heat her up fast on the steel side to brake the bond, and on the bolsters a good sharp rap on something will brake the bond too.

If you want to drill the holes after gluing
you'll find if when you drill you're holes with bolsters glued up the bur going into the steel will lift the bolsters, this bur needs to come off.

I use what I call dummy pins all the time( sized a bit smaller then needed) , I can grind them flush while shaping
then push them out and replace with the longer ones then peen them once almost at finish.
 
Your pin hole problem is most-likely due to the drilling method you are using. Try this process for a very precise hole:

1. Spot-drill the hole. Always.

2. Drill the hole a few thousandths undersize with a screw-length drill bit. Jobbers bits walk around too much to give any degree of precision.

3. Ream to size with a chucking reamer.

4. If you will be peening the pins, ream the holes with a taper-pin reamer after you are all fit-up, and before final assembly.

A lengthy process just to get a hole, but necessary if you want a perfect fit and invisible pins.
 
Just wondering what is meant by "spot drill the hole"? Does this refer to using a small center drill to begin each hole, or...?

Thanks,

John Frankl
 
Jeff forgive me but
the way pins come you could have a doz reamers
to cover all the fits
just the down pressure alone can determine the hole size, not to mention
if the bit is sharpened wrong and off center.

the biggest problem is the pin stock itself.

from what I mentioned will work
by using a tapered-pin reamer
that is a must but also remembering you now you have now created more space to fill which peaning will cover.
so it's the center part that holds the pin body that needs to be precise
mainly to hold things in place..

I believe if you size the pin to the hole you'll save a lot of time , aggregation and money just my 2 cents :)
 
By the way I am just using 1/8" 1018 mild steel rod for pins. Can I super glue the bolsters straight before I peen the pins?
 
blgoode said:
By the way I am just using 1/8" 1018 mild steel rod for pins. Can I super glue the bolsters straight before I peen the pins?
Click to expand...

you can but the bond will brake before you get it peened
I'd swage the holes in or bur the pins to tighten it up.
do not get glue between the head of the pin and where the surface
will be , you will have a nice little out line of glue showing just where the pin is.. :eek:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top