Short Review: Reeve Green Beret

A

AnklePocket

Joined
May 5, 2001
Messages
919
I first saw the Reeve Green Beret at one of the NY Custom Knife Shows right when it first came out. It immediately caught my eye, but I couldn't really check it out because my 5 year old hit her head on a table picking up her rubber knife and it just went downhill from there.
A 5.5 incher just arrived from 2TheHilt and it's more than expected. The 7" model would also be exceptional, but this one is very well balanced so I'm pleased. Specs can be found on the Reeve site or one of many dealers' sites who sell them so I won't bore you.
I haven't yet put it through it's paces, but first impressions are usually accurate. It's made of a nice, thick and heavy slab of S30V with a not very sharp, but functional top edge. The cutting edge is sharp enough, but could be easily made sharper if you like - I think it's good as is. The point is just how I like it and enhanced by the top edge. I'm not one for serrations, but there's only a few in the right spot which could be functional once in awhile.
I'm a big fan of finger grooves and these don't disappoint. The guard is larger underneath than above which is also a nice touch. And I've never met a canvas micarta that I didn't like. The handle material is contoured to enhance the grip. The handle would be perfect for my hands if it were about 1/4" larger, but is easily overlooked by everything else that's done well. And the handle bottom has a well contoured end for enhanced grip.
The sheath is a green nylon with a kydex insert and fastening cord at the bottom if I ever go into battle. There's also a small pocket for a field sharpener. CRK offers a leather version and this would ROCK with a Rowe #10 black leather sheath. I'll probably just keep the nylon/kydex one.
That's about it. Needless to say, I'm a fan. I couldn't wait for my rediculously nice bowie to arrive and I think that this'll be the field tool instead with the bowie maybe reserved for rare safe queen duty - at least for awhile.
Highly recommended and any words on the 7 incher would be welcomed. The attached pic shows it in the middle with 2 new buddies.
 
how does it slice/cut as compared to the RJ Martin Quest (?) you've got there?

where's the balance point in that GB?

good review - now put it through its paces and tell us how it cuts and chops!

thanks
 
The point of balance is right around the middle of the first finger groove.
The RJ Martin knife is the Trek which is like a smaller Quest.
Without a field test they both seem pretty similar in cutting/slicing. The GB is a lot heavier so will chop better. The Trek is outstanding, but doesn't have the legendary RJM sharpness or zero edge. Not necessarily a bad thing, but just a reason to get another one day. I'm comparing it (420V if that makes a difference) to a 3V Wasabi that's the sharpest thing in all recorded history so maybe not a fair comparison.
Probably won't get it out until the Spring.
 
Anklepocket, I would really like to hear about the 3V custom in regard to edge holding and ease of sharpening. I have been interested in that steel for a while now, mostly for a hard use knife. Thanks!
 
I can only give a novice answer on 3V. I didn't use mine all that much although it was clearly the most impressive slicer of all. Steel selection isn't everything, but I would guess that 3V might be the best on all measures all things being equal (heat treat, ect.).
This particular maker is a better sharpener than I, but I imagine that one could get the edge back close to new if necessary. The Wasabi is a zero edge and my sharpening skill might have a problem replicating that, but a traditional edge wouldn't be horrible. I imagine that edge holding would be superior.
To summarize: The 3V that I experienced was "wicked" which is after "scary sharp". My Trek in 3V with a slightly pointier point and finer serrations on top would be the perfect IWB knife. The Trek is close enough, though, so I'll keep it (until I find an IWB knife that is closer to my definition of perfect - the Polkowski CQ comes to mind). It's in 420V which is no slouch. But, again, I think that heat treating and all might be the most important thing as I've seen some "out of control" S30V blades.
 
What do you think of the exposed tang concept.
I have to admit I'm baffled why someone would design a knife like that.
In handling it it didn't really jump out at me but on reflection I cant see why the tang wouldn't be flush with the scales.
Guess I should have asked Bill Harsey while I was drooling over the knife with him at the OKCA.
It seems to me that in hard use it would create hot spots in the hand.
 
Production first, looks and ergonomics second. Running the scales flush might take some hand work to get flush. Then what happens if a scale needs replacing. The new one might not fit correctly.

By making the scales narrower than the tang you keep costs down and replacement simpler.

I could be wrong on this one but that is the only reason I can come up with that makes any sense to me. The feel in the hand is definitely better with flush scales than exposed tang. Even though the tang is chamfered its still not as comfortable.

DE
 
The tang not being flush with the scales is what scared me off from buying this knife. I hate that "feature" on a knife. The feel couldn't be worse.
 
I have one and it chops like a demon the handle is a lot like the E-handle on the Busse's. The stays sharp forever but if you do happen to dull it on something like..oh say a small sapling or something else. It will sharpen right back up to shaving in 15-20 strokes on a fine grit diamond pad. When I say that it is shaving, thing is so sharp that I actually shaved some of the skin off the pad of my thumb with it. The tang, even though it protrudes out from the scales it's rounded and actually is positive traction on the front side where it fits nicely into the grooves of the joints in your fingers. Anyhow It's an awesome knife I've used it quite a bit and it still asks for more.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top