Should I buy the DMT Dia-Sharp 6-inch Double-Sided Bench Stones?

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Jan 16, 2013
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I am looking for supplies to sharpen some EDC folders and kitchen knives. Specifically, I have a Stretch ZDP-189 with a chip on the edge so it needs re-profiled.

I'm trying to keep it under $100 and bench stones seem to be more versatile than the less expensive guided systems like the Aligner and Magna Guide. I get that it will take a LOT of practice to use the bench stones properly.

My goal is to bring the kitchen knives back to life and get an arm-shaving-sharp polished edge on my EDC's. After some research, I'm considering 2 of the stones stated in the title, one in XC/C and another in Fine/Extra Fine, along with a strop and some compound.

Would those be suitable stones for a kit or would I be better off with one double-sided DMT stone and a higher grit stone like a ceramic?

Thanks in advance,

Jay
 
If you want mirror-polished bevels, you'll likely need ceramics in med/fine/uf or other finer stones anyway (and additional finer grit stropping compounds would help, like 6/3/1 micron diamond paste from DMT). The EF DMT hone won't quite get it there by itself; it leaves a more refined 'satin' finish on most steels.

A Coarse/Fine, or even Fine/EF diamond hone should be plenty for grinding new edges on basic kitchen knives, and a ceramic (med/fine) would likely do well for touching them up. If the kitchen knives are just basic stainless steel, even a Fine diamond will work pretty quickly on them, especially in a bench-sized hone. Coarse would be faster, but an XC would likely be overkill on those. The Fine diamond from DMT can leave an excellent working edge for kitchen use.


David
 
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If you want mirror-polished bevels, you'll likely need ceramics in med/fine/uf or other finer stones anyway (and additional finer grit stropping compounds would help, like 6/3/1 micron diamond paste from DMT). The EF DMT hone won't quite get it there by itself; it leaves a more refined 'satin' finish on most steels.

A Coarse/Fine, or even Fine/EF diamond hone should be plenty for grinding new edges on basic kitchen knives, and a ceramic (med/fine) would likely do well for touching them up. If the kitchen knives are just basic stainless steel, even a Fine diamond will work pretty quickly on them, especially in a bench-sized hone. Coarse would be faster, but an XC would likely be overkill on those. The Fine diamond from DMT can leave an excellent working edge for kitchen use.


David

Thank you for the reply. I'm new to freehand so I figure I've got a better chance of creating and maintaining flat bevels with a lower number passes on the stone. That's why I figured that I would need the XC grit. Can I get away with the DMT Coarse to re-profile the Stretch ZDP-189 or do I need to go with the XC?
 
Thank you for the reply. I'm new to freehand so I figure I've got a better chance of creating and maintaining flat bevels with a lower number passes on the stone. That's why I figured that I would need the XC grit. Can I get away with the DMT Coarse to re-profile the Stretch ZDP-189 or do I need to go with the XC?

For just the one blade, in a relatively small (folder) size, I'd think the Coarse would be enough. I have the stones you inquired about (6" double-sided Dia-Sharps in XC/C, F/EF) and I've never actually used the XC. Same holds true with my other DMT hones (Dia-Folds, 'credit card' hones and a double-sided Duo-Sharp). None of them are more than Coarse in grit, and I've never felt a need for it. An XC would be handy for re-grinding bevels on very large/thick blades, especially if they're in any of the 'supersteels' like ZDP, S30V, D2, etc.


David
 
For just the one blade, in a relatively small (folder) size, I'd think the Coarse would be enough. I have the stones you inquired about (6" double-sided Dia-Sharps in XC/C, F/EF) and I've never actually used the XC. Same holds true with my other DMT hones (Dia-Folds, 'credit card' hones and a double-sided Duo-Sharp). None of them are more than Coarse in grit, and I've never felt a need for it. An XC would be handy for re-grinding bevels on very large/thick blades, especially if they're in any of the 'supersteels' like ZDP, S30V, D2, etc.


David

Got it, which grits are necessary to move from DMT coarse to UF ceramic?
 
How about this for a bench stone kit:

DMT Coarse
Spyderco Medium
Spyderco Fine
Spyderco Ultra Fine
 
How about this for a bench stone kit:

DMT Coarse
Spyderco Medium
Spyderco Fine
Spyderco Ultra Fine

There's a very large grit jump from the coarse DMT (deep scratches) to the medium Spyderco (much, much finer by comparison). The grit aggressiveness is vastly different between the diamond hones and the ceramics (a 'Fine' diamond is much more aggressive than a 'Fine' ceramic, so it would leave a coarser finish). So, it would be hard, or next to impossible, to make polished edges without closing that gap (Fine/EF/EEF DMT; might get by with just the Fine/EF DMT, before the medium Spyderco). True polished edges (mirror) are very hard to produce without a full and tight grit progression (DMT C/F/EF/EEF, followed by Spyderco M/F/UF, then followed by stropping with finer compounds).

If good, working edges (minus the mirror finish) are the goal, an awful lot can be done with just a C/F diamond combo, and perhaps a medium or fine ceramic for touch-ups (or straight to a strop from the fine diamond, skipping the ceramics altogether; would leave a very aggressive 'toothy' edge).


David
 
Ditto what David said above

I have a set of DMT Dia-Sharp 8x3 and they save a lot of time when it comes to sharpening knives, they are fast, aggressive stones and well worth the money. I used the extra coarse stone for the 1st time yesterday on a friends knife that was in pretty bad shape. Went from EC, C F & EF. Within 15 minutes I was done. Then I gave it a couple light strokes on the Sharp Maker and handed him his knife back. Needless to say he was impressed with the results.
 
I just ordered the DMT 6-inch kit along with a strop and compound from the site that Scubie posted for $107 shipped, just over budget. The priority is to get the knives sharp so the mirror-polished bevels will have to wait. This kit should be enough to get me started with learning to freehand and strop.

Thanks again.

Jay
 
I know you already made your decision, but I'm going to throw in my two cents anyway. You made the right call, I have that exact kit, and recently started free hand sharpening myself, and it is a dream to learn on. Great feedback, and as others have said, the Course and the Fine DMT do a ton of work and leave a very sharp (and attractive) edge. I have not used those stones on ZDP-189 as I've yet to acquire a blade in that steel, but for your run of the mill EDC steels and random stainless steel kitchen knives, they're excellent. I think you'll be very pleased.
 
Thanks! I've been sharpening up a storm since I received the kit on Saturday. I started out with an old Chicago Cutlery Chef's knife and worked my way up to some of our better kitchen knives. The DMT stones made quick work of the relatively soft steel and we were slicing and dicing, quite literally, in no time.

We have a set of Dexter Russell Soft-Grip kitchen knives that my wife bought for culinary school. Those knives are not much for appearance and we haven't been using them in favor of fancier looking Pampered Chef knives. However, the DR blades are FFG and very thin. I sharpened the small Chef's knife and I was amazed at how sharp it became. I tested it out on an orange, apple, carrot and potato; all of which it sliced through with ease. I set the blade edge on top of an orange, grabbed the end of the handle with 2 fingers and gently rocked the knife back and forth. It sliced through to the bottom in 1 stroke forward and 1/2 stroke back. Very cool!

I did have an issue with the Extra Fine side of one of the stones. I know and understand that the finer DMT's require break-in. However, from first inspection, the stone just didn't seem right. I expected the surface to be consistently smooth for an abrasive that fine but there was a few lines and small pits that were visible and could be felt by touch. I could also feel larger particles raised on the surface. There were very faint stripes on the surface perpendicular to the longer sides. I tried it out and right away it didn't feel right. Even with the lightest pressure, I could feel the edge getting hung up multiple times on each pass. I inspected the blade with a 10x loupe and my smooth edge from the Fine side was now thoroughly chipped. Under magnification, I could see the "larger particles" which were black as opposed to the grayish powder-like appearance of the surrounding diamonds. So I focused on the 2 largest and closes particles with the blade hoping to dislodge them with no success. Then, I tried some Soft Scrub with the rough side of a scrubbing sponge with no success. Then, I used my ZDP-189 blade thinking that if anything is going to "break in" the stone it would be that hard steel. No success. Finally, I lightly used the Coarse side of the other stone and that worked after several passes. Unfortunately and not surprisingly, it also removed some of the EF diamonds exposing those stripes even more and it became obvious that those stripes were the metal mounting surface underneath the diamonds. So the stone is now smooth but with stripes of non-diamond surface.

I contacted the seller about this issue and they have agreed to replace the EF/F stone at no extra charge. I am very happy with their service especially since some might consider my alteration of the stone to be abuse. He stated that the steps that I took were reasonable. Regarding the black particles, my best guess would be that those were black diamonds but I'm not an expert and that's just a guess.

UKPK (CTS-BD1)
I finished sharpening this one yesterday and I'm very happy with the results. The factory bevel was still intact so I worked through the Fine side, Extra Fine side, Green Compound on Balsa and finally a bare leather strop. Hair popping sharp!

Stretch ZDP-189
The edge had been chipped so I had previously attempted repair with 8 sheets of automotive sandpaper (320-2500 grit) on a countertop cutting board. I ended up with an even edge and shiny, polished, convex bevels. It would slice but not push-cut through printer paper and it would not shave arm hair.​

After all my recent practice, I decided to attempt to create new, flat bevels at approximately 15 degrees per side. Ha! I started on the Extra Coarse and spent a lot of time trying to get it right on the first stone like everybody recommends. I did my best and worked my way through to stropping. Again, I've got shiny convex bevels and a smooth edge. It is a bit sharper. It push-cuts paper but does not quite shave hair.​

I'm confident that my technique is headed in the right direction but I'll need a lot more practice to get the flat shallow bevels that I want from reprofiling. Many thanks to all who have responded and also to knifenut1013 for the plethora of his knowledge on this forum and his MrEdgy81 YouTube videos. What was initially "Greek to me" about freehand technique is finally starting to make sense.

Jay
 
After reading through old threads I see that most of this board agrees that the continuous dia sharps are the better product, but I still have to ask...

Which is the better purchase ? 6" uninterrupted dia sharp double sided $89.99 -Vs.- 8" interrupted duo sharp double sided $139.99

Both are two double sided stones EC - EF

Any input/suggestions would be much appreciated. Looking to make a purchase this weekend. I'll check in tomorrow in the A.M.. TIA
 
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